Originally Posted by dean_mt
Walter - By all accounts I've heard furled are like braided, but much preferred because they don't pick up micro-float-sum, get dirty and sink.
Your other point brings up the issue of loop to loop connections. If you use a short butt section - as close to your line stiffness - nail-knotted to the line, do you use a loop to loop then for changing leaders mid-stream and or do you feel that is to much of a hinge and cut and re-nail knot a new leader?
I have used 6' tapered braided butts from Orvis for 26 years. I insert the tip of the line into the hollow braid and seal it with Zap-a-Gap then 12-turn nail knot a section of 0X to the tip of the braid and build down conventionally to a 4 to 5' tippet section. This leader is typically abouat 14' long for my #4 & 5 outfits and is used on technical dry fly water. For #6 I use hand built hard to medium to supple mono leaders. I do a 12-turn nail knot to the tip of the line with .022 stiff RIO and blood knot on down to my tippet where I switch to a ligiture knot. This leader is used from a drift boat or for less technical larger fly casting (Salmon Flies anyone?). For salt I nail knot a 4' section of #40 fluro and here, because wind determins the length of leader I want to use, I form a small perfection loop which mates to the same on the next #30 section. I will have a pair of all fluro leaders built, one of about 9' and another going 13 - 15 feet. These are used on #8 & 9 riggs for bonefish and striped bass on the flats. I change leaders VERY infrequently, re-building as necessary during the course of a fishing trip or even a full season. Barring an extreme misshap, the braided leaders last the 3 year life span of a fly line.
How does one affix a furled leader to the tip of the fly line and what quality of energy transfer is achivable?