When tying flies onto 60lb fluoro you will need something strong to hook the hook into small enough that it will be behind the barb. Many of the knots used with thick fluoro - Rhodes loop, Duncan loop, Lefty Loop - require pressure on both standing and tag ends. You will need one hand on the standing line and pliers on the tag end. A "hook ring" or steering wheel spoke will work.
I think Mark made a typo here
To rig this type of connection tie a doubled surgeon's loop in the butt section
The butt section will be 50 or 60 lb. test and a single loop is way more than adaquate. It is the tippet only which requires a doubled loop in this type of connection.
I would also bimini both ends of the tippet so the tippet is doubled at the bite tippet connection too via a strong knot in that end of the single tippet.
There is another alternative also but it requires stronger backing, like 60 or 80lb gel spun and a 12 wt line. Then you can go with straight 60 lb fluoro or mono with no knots (except at the fly line end and fly itself). The hook will pull, straighten or snap well before the fly line itself breaks.
When I used to use a loop to loop for fly line to backing connection, I would do a "cat's paw" connection with one more pass through the fly line loop. I can't find a decent video but here is one that will work. Instead of doing all of them just pass the reel through the big backing loop twice instead of the standard once ("square knot" or "figure 8" "non-cutting" way).
Bimini Cats Paw Splice
This will tighten up the knot profile so it will come back thrugh your guides easily without hanging up and will insure that it remains "non-cutting". With a decent size tarpon, this connection could be going back and forth through your guides numerous times. It works even better with a twist between the first and second pass through with the reel, but that may complicate it too much.
Spring is a ways off, so you have plenty of time if you don't wait till the last minute like I do.
PS: Couple other thoughts. Generally speaking, if fishing from shore, if you can be set up to reach a channel with your fly that drains flats or estuaries when the current switches to outgoing (ESPECIALLY if it occurs at just before sunset), blind casting can be really, really productive right into the night. I would estimate your chances of hooking tarpon blind casting to be at least 10 times greater when fishing from shore than sight fishing from shore (and better than sight fishing from a boat too, if you are in a good spot) . However, blind casting a 12 wt, or even an 11 wt for several hours a stretch can wreck your tirp if you have not been working up to it.
The thing to practice for sight fishing is getting the fly out QUICK. As Mark said, that is more important than distance, as often you don't even see them until they are close. Accuracy, of course, goes along with quickness.