So here's a short look at the process.
Here is a raw culm with a check split in place. Its purpose is to keep the culm from splitting in weird spots while its drying.
Here's the culm flamed lightly on the enamel side as well as the pith side. This step drives out excess moisture and tempers the cane.
From there the culm is split in half, thirds, and on down to strips just over .25"
After that the nodal dam is removed from the pith side and the strips are straightened with a heat gun and the nodes get filed/sanded down. Then the nodes are staggered with a 3x3 pattern and numbered 1 3 and 5 then 2 4 and 6 (once they are ready for glue they are put back in numerical order to insure there are no nodes directly next to each other)
On to roughing or using a beveler. Once the strips are straight and the nodes dressed, the strips are then brought to 60 degree equalaterial triangles.
Now is when the wrist burning begins, the form is set to final demisions via push/pull screws set at 5 inch intervals with a dial depth indicator with a 60 degree point. (the pic is an old one but oh well)
I work with two block planes, one is for general roughing (red) and the other a vintage Stanley 9 1/5 for final planing. Once the strip is within a few thousandths of finish dimensions the enamel side is then sanded down with 220 grt paper in a firm block. Then it gets finished off and taped in the order described above.