Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces
Exactly what she said. Now a couple of questions. What are you using for finish? Are you using color preserver and what kind if so? What did you not like about the finsh job you just did?
Actually describe in detail everything you think is wrong and post a photo. We will be able to ID the problems better and tell you how to correct them.
Here's a couple of finish tips. I don't use a one coat finish ever. They just don't work as well. I use Flex Coat lite build and do two coats. After the first coat has set up I look for thread end fuzz I may have missed or bubbles that pop up. If I find any I chop off the top of the fuzz level with an X-Acto knife. Bubbles I take the point and turn into a cone shaped divot. When I do the second coat all of this will vanish. I do the second coat so thin it is almost impossible for a bubble to survive so this coat is always perfect at least to the naked eye.
If you are using color preserver, and I almost always do, I do two coats there also. I do the first coat really heavy and when it has soaked in a bit wipe the excess off with my finger. Keep it off the blank. The second coat should be thin and don't leave bubbles in that either.
There is no such thing as a mistake in thread till you put finish on it. If you are not 100% happy with a wrap, remove it and do it over again. That way you don't like it for two minutes. If you put finish over it you don't like it forever. Make sure you don't cross threads, leave gaps, etc. You can make most wraps better by burnishing them. I use the loop on my scissors to do it. Works pretty well.
Now for the decal. Do not ever touch the sticky side of a decal with your finger. EVER. Peel the paper back part way and put the exposed end down and remove the rest of the paper. If you fold the paper back you can line up trhe decal without it sicking. Push down on the exposed end. Then peel the paper back and it will be where you want without ever touching the sticky side.