View Single Post
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2013, 06:41 PM
fredaevans's Avatar
fredaevans fredaevans is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: White City (tad north of Medford) Oar-E-Gone
Posts: 4,796
fredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond reputefredaevans has a reputation beyond repute
Default Re: First Switch Setup

Quote:
Originally Posted by petee View Post
Alright all of you are responsible for my blooming addiction. Thought I would post what I am getting and get some more questions on future steps answered.

Rod: Sage "One" Switch 7116-4 (11'6", 7wt. 4 piece) I will be building this rod. Already have the seat insert complete and have the Titanium hardware. Posted it under the Rod Building section. Question: Should I go with an oversized tiptop to prevent knot/loop hang ups?

Yes, but also make your shooting line loop LONG! Like upwards of 6 inches.

Reel: I have put a deposit on Abel Switch, deep blue, non-ported reel.

No need to get carried away with an expensive reel, for the most part all it does is 'store line.' The question of a drag system vs a click and pawl is just a personal choice. 90% of the fish I've hook/landed/released have just been on C & P's. Line going through all those guides really does provide far more 'drag' than folk suspect. That said, I can think of a few times I was damned glad to have a 'drag reel.' But each of those was on a single hander rod and a hot fish.

Line: Went with a 425gr RIO Skagit Short per chart recommendations by several different site reviews. With the Skagit I will need to either make or buy various tips for the different conditions. Yes?

Here's an over simple answer. With a skagit you can use real 'heads, with a scandi you'll be using sinking leaders of some sort (full float to extra heavy). That said, with this short of a rod, and that light a head, short runs of T 8 to 11 are about all you're going to get without hinging with a Scandi due to its front taper. Skagit's have a pretty blunt front end so will handle 'more.'

For surf fishing, more than likely two handed over head casting, I will probably go with a full floating line with various sink tips for the different conditions. Will I need another spool or will is it worth it to just remove the various lines? It isn't like I am going to change from surf to river set ups on the water.

No clue as to this part. Don't think I've ever 'over head cast with a 2hander of any kind.

I also built a St. Croix Imperial 5 wt.Switch, but we will talk about a set up for that at a later date. I used Nickel Silver hardware on it so it is for fresh water only. Don't have the heart to dunk it in salt.

Gotta love a new addiction that let's you buy all new toys

"Welcome to the Dark Side Young Luke Skywalker, Welcome ..........

Pete
Want fun with a 2hander? Weight (pun intended) till you get a 2 or 3wt for low water summer run (or trout) fishing.
__________________
"“Reputation is what the world thinks a man is; character is what he really is.”
Reply With Quote