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Old 02-28-2014, 04:56 PM
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Default Re: Boot Stud Pattern

This is one of my older posts but it should give you an idea on where your studs should be mounted. With the broader based studs that are used for rubber soles, use less of them than on the Weinbrenner boots.


I was a boot tester for Weinbrenner Boot Company, the manufacturer of the Gary Borger Ultimate Wading Boot. During in my years of testing I learned that not all studded boots are equal. It is better to have too few studs than too many.

Studs do not cause you to slip on rocks. What causes you to slip is the distribution and projection of the studs. The distribution must be planned so that both studs and felt/rubber sole contact the surface of the rock. Too many studs too close together and you are standing on the studs alone and not on both sole and studs.

The studs should project only a bare minimum from the sole. Early prototype versions of the Borger boots had the studs projecting too far from the felt sole and was corrected on the production model. Body weight will compress the felt and the studs then contact the rock and cuts through the algae. As the sole gets worn, more and more of the stud gets exposed. It the boots starts new with exposed studs, this does not allow for wear of the sole.

A stacked heel is doubly important if you are going to have studs so that you have this surface on the top of rocks. Too many studs and the corner of the heel may be the only non studded surface on the rocks.

If you have a higher quality boot like this Weinbrenner Borger Boot that has a "stacked" heel made of separate stacked, glued and sewn pieces of felt, the corner of the heel forms an edge that "grabs" onto the surface of a rounded rock and gives you a stable hold on the top of the rock. Imagine this boot on a rounded rock and you will see what I mean. Although the boot is studded, you cannot see them. This is how studs should be mounted.



Click the image to open in full size.


The bottom of the Borger boot shows that the area under the ball of the boot has no stud but as you rock your foot forward, the studs begin to grab. Also notice that on the side view of the boot above, you cannot even see the studs because only the tips project from the boot. As you step on the felt, the felt compresses and the tips of the studs contact the rock and river bottom.


Click the image to open in full size.


I tested two pairs of boots (studded and unstudded) made in Korea that Weinbrenner was thinking of marketing in the US under the Weinbrenner name. I fell off a rock and dinged my reel because they had a one piece sole with flat heels and a poor stud pattern. I recommended changes to the design but they decided not to market the boots.

The stud pattern is way to tight on the studded pair. The stud pattern must allow both felt and studs to contact the ground/rocks. That way, when you are on a rock, you are not on just the tips of the studs.


What did I do with the boots? Sold 'em on Ebay cheap. Unfortunately, even new current boots are still made like this.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Design matters! You can't just put a layer of felt or rubber on a one piece sole with a rounded elevated one piece heel and expect it to grab the top of a rounded rock. Note that the felt of the Borger boot is not only glued to the welt but sewn to the welt. A glued wet can pull off, a sewn welt will not.

Quality boots cost more but if they save a fall, they are worth it. I wish they could make them lighter but these boots last forever. I was a tester for the the prototypes of the Propex (ballistic nylon) boots above. I still have them and they are going on 20 years although they need new studs and soles. The boots are solid and have not blown out the sides or the toes.

Not all wading boots are equal and I think it is really important to have a separate stacked heel on felt sole, because there is no tread pattern on felt to provide grip when on slippery surfaces. As a boot tester, I got to keep the boots I tested, but some boots are not worth keeping even if they were free. I can't imagine buying boots that are unsafe just to save the cost of making a separate heel piece.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:58 PM
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Default Re: Boot Stud Pattern

Great thread!

I just bought my first pair of Simms boots (felt) and the info here was a great help!

Thanks.

Joe
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Old 03-16-2014, 06:13 PM
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Thumbs up Re: Boot Stud Pattern

Brilliant post above Silver Creek; makes all the sense in the world.

KADOO'S TO YOU!

Fred

PS: Any info on where to just but an extra heel piece?
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:36 PM
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Default Re: Boot Stud Pattern

Here's one of my posts on how to judge boot construction from several years ago. The boot models shown are probably no longer currently made but you can use the information below to judge the quality of construction.

Here's information you can use to judge boot construction when looking at catalog photos.

The welt of boot is the attachment point of the sole of the boot. The sole of the boot can be just glued to the welt or it can be both sewn and glued. The sewn welt can be single stitched or double stitched. A sewn welt prevents the sole from becoming separated at the edges. This is where most separations start.

Better boots like the Borger Boots will have a sewn and glued welt and sole. Cheaper boots will have only a glued welt and sole.

Here is an example of sewn welt construction from the Weingbrenner Borger Boot:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

There is more to a quality boot than just a sewn welt but it is a good place to start. If you look very carefully at the welt - that bottom of the boot that attaches the upper to the sole - you will notice that you do not need to see the sole of the boot to see if the welt is sewn or molded. Look at the Hodgman and Patagonia boots and you will see that there is no "lip" to the welt and therefore there is no place to sew the welt to the sole. Note that the Borger boots has a lip on the welt which almost always indicates a sewn welt.

Click the image to open in full size.Here's Hodgman with just a glued felt and no lip.



Click the image to open in full size.Patagonia - ditto - no sewn felt and no lip. Just as bad is that fact that this boot has a flat sole with no attempt to produce even a one piece heel.


Click the image to open in full size.Simms L2

You cannot judge by brand name. You need to examine the model of the boot and see if the welt is sewn and glued. Here are two Orivis boots, one with a glued sole and one with a sewn and glued sole construction.

Click the image to open in full size.Cheappie model Orvis Clearwater - no sewn felt and no lip.

Click the image to open in full size.More expensive Orvis Battenkill - sewn felt with a lip.

Look carefully at the catalog photos. Even if there is no photo of the sole of the boot, you can tell if the soles are probably just glued by looking for the "lip" of the welt where the upper and lower boots are joined.


Here's the result of a glued rather than a sewn welt. A review from 2009.

"Let's just say the rubber toe is not working out so well. As of this report I have stopped wearing these boots to send them back to Simms. The sole has begun peeling away from the boot and the laces are shot to hell. If I did not have 5 pairs of boots I'd be pissed.'

Click the image to open in full size.

2008-09 Simms Rivershed Wading Boot Fishing Product Preview/Review - Fly Fishing Blog - Colorado Fly Fishing



Current Grey's Wading boot with poor stud pattern in my opinion.

Click the image to open in full size.

Greys Platinum Wading Boots – Glasgow Angling Centre
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