[Kai]

Originally Posted by Frank Whiton

Hi Kai, I don't know of a better reel in the price range. The first time I saw one was at Lee's Ferry. I was checking out the reels and Wendy Gunn told me to take a look at the Galvan. It has been my favorite ever since. I wish I had one when I lived in Alaska. Where are you fishing?------Frank

Haven't been fishing anywhere here in Colorado lately. All my local creeks here near Boulder are frozen up, and I haven't had the time to travel to the S. Platte or other tailwaters where the H2O is still in a liquid state.

[Yoffione]

It depends. It depends on what you are doing with the rig. When I bought my first set up 15 years ago I was talked into more reel than I thought I needed. Now, I do not regret it a bit. I bought a 5 weight that would be used for all of my fly fishing (not the best option, but I was just getting into it). That included some trout, bass, panfish and a inshore saltwater trip once a year. I was going to be over rodded some and under on others. I bought a Lamson lp2 and it handled everything I caught, which included good sized redfish and snook and largemouth . I am not sure if a lesser reel would have held up. There are many, many more options out there now, but if there is a posibility of using drag much, spend a little dough. You will not regret it.

[cowboy]

I know I am old and still living in the 40's and 50's when it comes to fly fishing, but an expensive reel is just an unnecessary show of wealth when it comes to trout. Sorry, I do not understand people using a fly reel for fighting a fish, when it is essentially a line holder. I still fight fish, up to about 5 lbs. using the line and hand stripping. I can understand a large, more expensive reel if you are going after monsters. But, I still enjoy medium waters with rainbows and western brookies. To me it is more fun to fish all day and hook and release 20 small fish, than hook a couple of monsters. I own a old Medalist for 5 wt. and a Orvis matched to my Orvis rod, also a 5 wt. I have a 10/11 wt. rod that I bought to use for bass and other mid to large fish. When I get around to putting a reel on it, it will probably be a large arbor reel, but only in the $100 to $150 range. And that is only because I will need something to use to fight larger fish.

[Joni]

Cowboy, you are right about not needing to go top $ on a reel. I had a plastic Large Arbor that was around $30. The drag on this thing was an "O" ring. No big deal on a 3wt rod....worked just fine.
On the other hand, the more pricy reels have very smooth drags and other features.
It's like, you could buy a tool kit at Walmart or one from snap on. They both are going to do the same job, but the snap on will last longer, is warrantied, and has resale value.

[TheFlyMaster]

Originally Posted by BruceN

My immediate thought was to say "Yes, expensive reels have a lot to offer." Then I realized that my idea of 'expensive' is very different from that of many here. I thought my Battenkill MA's were expensive at $125 each, but well worth it. For the kind of fishing I like (mostly small streams and creeks) I can't see what any of the horrifyingly expensive ones ($350 and more! For a reel?!?) would have to offer. If you have to save pennies somewhere, I would suggest that you put a good quality rod and good quality line higher on the list than a more expensive reel.Just my 2 casts worth.Bruce

I have to agree on BruceN on this one. I always to tell people to put the money into a good rod, then line, then the reel. I've had a chance to try Ross, Bauer and Loomis as well as Pflueger, yep Pflueger. I'm comparing my Bauer's with this Pflueger and having a hard time seeing where the cost is at this point.

With fly reels, besides just being a line holder is the initial drag startup. An initial drag pull shouldn't stick, putting alot more stress on your line and it shouldn't come peeling out creating loose line on the spool. Obviously you need to set the drag right, but setting it correctly and having a weak initial drag are two totally seperate things. So look for a reel with a good drag system first, but the only way to know is from what others tell you and testing it out yourself. Good fly shops will loan out reels and rods, otherwise find someone that you can borrow from. So if your concerned with fighting a fish with the reel, then get a good drag system, otherwise stick with a open rimmed "palm drags" or using line to conrol drag.

[FishyWrench]

Just my two cents but if you bought a sage 4 wt then price was not a concern. Buy a new Tibor spring creek...it will match beautifully with it. Wonderful drag....second to none.Last time I checked they were round 300.

[Frank Whiton]

When it comes to buying a reel where you are in fly fishing has a lot to do with the amount you spend. A beginner may want to spend as little as possible but a long time fly fisher may want to get something special. If your are a fresh water fisher you only need two reels. A smaller reel for trout and pan fish. A larger reel for bass, big trout, salmon, or pike. I think you are well ahead to buy the most expensive reel you can afford because you will be fishing with it for years. You may not need a super drag for trout but if you get out west or go to Alaska, you may appreciate the drag. The trick is to buy extra spools for the reel and not buy a bunch of different reels. I have 4 spools for my early Lampson and it has been a good reel for over 25 years. There are so many good reels available today. If I were buying a reel, it would be in the $250 to $300 range. In this price range you can find many lifetime reels that will be a pleasure to own and use. In choosing a reel I always look at the cost of a spare spool. If a beginner buys a reel, they should also consider a spare spool. This will allow them to use two different lines based on their application.

[Joni]

Very well put Frank. I buy the whole reel (same ones) but that is cause I will carry 3 or 4 rods at a time with different lines on them (on my pontoon and float tube) and if river fishing I carry two. Just saves on down time. I do have plenty of spools however, but I got line from floating (WF, DT, TT) and sinking from Intermediate to VII. I am obsessed!

[Frank Whiton]

Joni,

Well now Joni, you are a special case for sure.

[FishyWrench]

"You may not need a super drag for trout"


This is true but they sure come in handy when you hook up with a 3lb brown in the fast water, while using a 6x tippet. Small stream brookies....youll never use it....