[tie one on]

Good Day to All,Do you need a more expensive reel on let's say a 4wt rodif you are only fishing for trout & using smaller flies ?I have been debating on what reel to buy for my new Sage FLi 4wt.I have looked at a BIG variety of reels from $29 up to $275. What are some of your thoughts, or suggestions ?The only factor that really concerns me is the reel weight.I do not want a "heavy" reel on this wonderful rod, but I don'tfeel I need to spend $275 for a reel. The size fish I would be after I never use the reel to land them.( I have been using my 5wt up to this point & don't use thereel on that rod either. ) I don't see the need.I just hold the line against the handle with my right hand & pullthe line in with the left. It's still a great fight & I don't lose themvery often.What are your thoughts ?Tie One On

[Joni]

I don't see the need for a very expensive reel, unless you just like the more expensive gear. I do think you need one with a good drag system (specially on the lighter rods) cause you never know when you might hook into a big fish. Personally when on a river I prefer to play the fish on the reel (so I am not catching the line on a sharp rock or stepping on it). Come to think of it, I prefer playing the fish on the reel in my Pontoon. There are a lot of great inexpensive reels out there. I use the Battenkill LA I on my 2wt and yes, I have had the fish take me to the backing, in fact I had to run down the shore line and my brother was down stream and netted a 17" brown for me. Light reels on light rods is the only way to go. I got the CFO for my light weight gear like my 3wt. and my 4wt,'s (Trout Bum, One Ounce, Lamiglass and my Battenkill Bamboo). Real great compliment to the set-up, plus looks good too ;-) I agree a reel is a place to keep your line, but in my experience, a good drag is very important.

[BigCliff]

I would put a Ross Cimarron or Colorado 1 on it and call it good. This one looks alright too: http://www.rossreelsworldwide.com/pr...st/flycast.cfm Or this one, cheaper still: http://www.rossreelsworldwide.com/pr...t/flystart.cfm Were I in the Orvis Fan club, I would probably pick a Mid-Arbor Battenkill.

[ffffg]

my favorite all time real if you asked me this question every year i fished would average out to be the old tin martin reel.. they have to be the lightest reel ive ever felt that actully worked well. now i strive for ross but unless big fish and lots of room for them to go and strong current is in the program i dont think they are nessesary.. i used to fish below this tiny dam, one day i landed three browns something like 17. 17, 19 inches in about 15-20 minutes.. the reel was of no consequence.. i knew how to fish that hole.. i would stand in the runout and when theycome to go down stream id stomp my foot with a splash and they would have to stay in the pool.. so in the creeks it will be your action/reaction that makes the day, not the reel.. dave..

[ffffg]

i got out the old martin, it has no drag which is fine for creeks, it was a little heavy on the 4 wt silver label compared to the new very lights, but worked fine... i guess all the money you spend on upper end reels is for looks, weight, and the new very nice drags.. dave..

[Reactor]

Many things about fly fishing are works of art. Nature has provided us with her works of art that we enjoy our sport within. If you look at your equipment as functional works of art then you can get more out of it. You have spent the money for a Sage rod, I suggest that take it out and view it under the sunshine and look at it very closely. If you see the art that is involved in its manufacture then find a reel that matches it. If you don't see the art then go with a reel that matches your view. Many upper priced reels are very functional but they go beyond that. Their price reflects, color, fit and finish as well. Buy the reel that fits your perception. Take the time to look over many reels then try and find a sale or a deal on the reel that you have chosen. Good Luck.

[Joni]

Originally Posted by Reactor

Many things about fly fishing are works of art. Nature has provided us with her works of art that we enjoy our sport within. If you look at your equipment as functional works of art then you can get more out of it. You have spent the money for a Sage rod, I suggest that take it out and view it under the sunshine and look at it very closely. If you see the art that is involved in its manufacture then find a reel that matches it. If you don't see the art then go with a reel that matches your view. Many upper priced reels are very functional but they go beyond that. Their price reflects, color, fit and finish as well. Buy the reel that fits your perception. Take the time to look over many reels then try and find a sale or a deal on the reel that you have chosen. Good Luck.

Gotta second that on fit! I have several of the BFR Battenkill LA and recently added a few China. I have a couple of upper end rods with the LOCKING RING, instead of the screw type.
The China made LA's barely fit because the foot seems to be bigger. A little scary out on the water with a reel barely hooked on. The BFR reels fit perfect.
Plus the Spring/Pawl reels make such a pretty song when fish is running.

[tightlines57]

Keep in mind you get what you pay for. Also, how do you fish? I generally spend $40 - $50 on my reels. The way I fish, my fighting is by hand, not on the reel. I will occasionally hook a big fish and use the reel and have yet to loose a fish due to reel problems. But then again, 40 years of fishing I think I know how to play a fish. If I used the reel all the time to play the fish, yes, I would get a better quality reel. Get the best reel you can afford based on your fishing style.

[STARMedic]

What price point defines what is or isnt an expensive reel? The first reel I had ever purchased for fly fishing was a Cortland Endurance, and was about 60ish dollars cheaper than the reel I was considering, but by far not anywhere in the neighborhood of what other high end reels cost....What do you guys consider to be the high, middle, and entry levels based on price point and quality for reels.I was looking through a fly rag the other day and noticed a reel system made of titanium that was priced at something like eight thousand dollars.....Me, personally I would categorize that as life on another planet.....Bruce

[Frank Whiton]

When buying reels I look at them as an investment in my favorite pastime. The only reason to buy a low cost reel is to save money. I bought my first fly reel in 1954. It was a Medalist and I still have it. Haven't fished with it for years but still have fond memories of fishing with it. Low cost reels can work well but I would spend a little more and get a reel with more features or lighter weight. A reel with a ball bearing shaft is a joy to use. A sleeve shaft will do the job if that is all you are concerned with. I would say that reels from $50 to $150 would be a low cost reel. Reels from 200 to $350 would be mid priced and reels from $400 and above would be high priced. One thing I look for in a reel is that it does not have an in-coming click. There are several very nice reels that I wouldn't consider because of the click setup. I play all but the very smallest trout from the reel. If you fish big water there is always a chance to hook a big fish. Big fish are better played from the reel. If you strip retrieve all the time I think you can get some bad habits of landing fish. Frank