[JBinUTAH]

I was in Island Park fishing with a buddy from California this past week and he showed me a different way of putting my tapered leader on my fly line. He had a special tool that he inserted about 1/4"+ in the center of the line, than he poked it out the side. He then pulled my Tapered leader back through leaving about 1" of the butt section out. He then "roughed up" the butt section of the leader with his knife and applied a small amount of Super Glue to it before pulling it through most of the way. He then trimmed it. It works great and is MUCH stronger than I thought it would be. Runs through my guides with zero resistance. He said the tool was made for performing this task.
Anyone ever do/seen this?
Any idea how or where to get this tool?
Any info would be appreciated.

[BigCliff]

I can't say for sure that he developed the method on his own, but the "ambassador" of that method of attaching a leader is Dave Whitlock. He is a big fan of using the "Zap-a-Gap" brand of superglue, and that method is often referred to as "the zap-a-gap connection" or something like that. I believe Davy Wotton is also a big fan of that method of attaching a leader.

I don't know exactly who carries that tool, but it can also be done with a sewing needle, I believe. It would work best with a slander one with a point that is more rounded than needle like so that it will stay within the core until you want it to puncture the coating. I have never tried the method myself, but I might just have to before this weekends perch jerking outing. I was thinking about doing a whipped loop, but this one is bound to be easier. I might add some neon thread over the connection to function as an indicator too.

[JBinUTAH]

Thanks for the info and reply. It will probably be the only one I will get now that my thread has been moved to "Portal News" whatever that is?? I had posted it under General Discussions. Why there you ask:

General discussions regarding fly fishing as a whole. Ask questions. Get answers...

Just seemed proper according to the description. Very frustrating when I am just trying to ask a question and get answers. I shall try elsewhere.

[Fish Bones]

JB

Chill out dude... it's an extreme compliment to have your thread moved to "Portal News". The "Portal News" threads appear on the home page for all who log on to see. I occasionally move a thread to there so that everyone can easily see it on the home page. That way your thread gets maximum viewing. I only move the threads to "Portal News" that I feel are very interesting and well thought out. Sometimes, I'll even add an iamge in order to draw more attention.

Your post on "Leader to Fly Line with Super Glue" I find very interesting. It is a very good and informative post that should create interest in every reader. So, if you're fortunate enough to have your thread moved "Portal News", pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Not everyone makes it to the home page.

This move is temporary. After the thread circulates off the home page, I place it back in its original forum.

My apologies for not notifying you in advance of the move.

If you prefer... I'll move it back now. Just let me know.

Thanks,
Steve

[fshfanatic]

I know a few people that thread 1/2" - 3/4" of the leader into the end of the flyline and secure it with super glue. Personally I think that is totally nuts.. None of them have ever had it pull out of the flyline, but you have to remember, none of them have caught really big fish eiother..

[JBinUTAH]

I have learned that the same/similar tool is a SHIMAZAKI "LEADER SPLICER KIT" described as SHIMAZAKI "LEADER SPLICER KIT" is slicker than a Montana snot rock. LOOK: Seamlessly attach a leader to a fly-line via this "SYSTEM" in seconds. A Grooved-Template safely "locks" the fly line in place, and guides the specially designed needle "straight" into the end of the fly line, and then out the top (see diagram). Feed the tip-top end of your leader through the "hole" in the needle and pull it back through the fly line. Rough Up the last 1/3rd inch of the leaders butt-end with a file, put a tiny drop of Super-Glue or Epoxy on the roughed up portion, and pull it into position (inside the fly line) for a no-knot connection. A PERFECT SEAMLESS CONNECTION EVERY TIME. Seven weights and larger should be secured with a nail-knot and glued.

Maybe The Full Creel carries this??
As far as moving this thread, yes informing me would have helped greatly. When I log on, I open the forum page and not the page you referred to. I am a member because reading posts is helping me to learn. This is my first year Fly Fishing and I need a lot of help. I have fished with Curtis and he referred me here. Thanks for the compliment regarding the thread.

[Fish Bones]

The Full Creel does not presently carry SHIMAZAKI "LEADER SPLICER KIT" although I'm sure its a fine system.

I remain a huge proponent of the braided leader loop. I understand that not all anglers like them. I agree that there are a few disadvantages... but, for me, the pros outweigh the minor cons. I agree that some leader loops can create problems with the line tip sinking. However, the loop-to-loop connection is so convenient that I can live with the sinking issues. Cortland now makes a “Floating Braided Loop� that works very well for me. It never sinks. For sinking lines, Cortland also makes the standard leader loops.

Some folks are concerned about "splash down" created by the extra mass of leader loops. A gentle presentation will reduce this to a point where its really not an issue.

Also, I’ve occasionally used a short section of mono and tied it to the end of the fly line using a nail knott. Then tie a loop at the other end of the mono. There is my loop connection. This will eliminate splash down problems.

I agree that the techniques you described are very good and there may be nothing wrong with that type of connection. Still, I prefer a loop-to-loop connection for convenience. I can tie any knot or splice any line... but I don’t like to take the time to do it when I’m fishing unless I must. I get good leaders pretty cheap so when one becomes too short or damaged I just quickly put on a new one using the loop-to-loop and get right back to fishing. The fishing gods seem to make sure that whenever I need to tie a time consuming knot is when the fish are biting the most. So, I’m OK with braided loops.

One thing that I’ve learned in fly fishing is that they’re usually a couple of different ways to do the same thing. What works well for some does not always work well for others. Everyone has their own techniques that make them feel comfortable. By all means... If it feels good do it.

Originally Posted by JBinUTAH

As far as moving this thread, yes informing me would have helped greatly. When I log on, I open the forum page and not the page you referred to.

Point well taken... I will try to remember to inform members when their post has been moved to the front page. Now... I would encourage everyone to open the home page first. There is usually some very important information there. News, prize winners, announcements, new articles, etc... For example: The winner of a fly rod from a previous monthly drawing logged on to the forum a few times during the claim period. He was going strait to the forums and not the home page where it was posted that he was the winner. The claim period expired before he saw it. That was too bad.

[BigCliff]

One of the reasons I have decided to try the super glue method is the fact that it should seal the end of the fly line and prevent the core from soaking up water and sinking. It also should help make it easier to get the line/leader combo back through the guides after landing a fish.

Mike I agree that I have thought for a long time that the method isn't to be trusted due to lack of strength. I still wouldn't dare do it on my 9wt. I'll try it out on my 3wt and go from there. I think I'll run at least an inch or so of leader up into the line and will likely rough up half that to catch the glue.

[Gordon Bryson]

I've never tried the super glue method, although it does sound appealing in the streamlining of the joint, and I may give it a try. I've also heard some super glue brands may not be waterproof and could present a problem, and I'm not sure that they all carry a 'waterproof' listing on their labels. In fact, I've used some of the small tubes of super glue from Home Depot, et al, and when I looked I didn't find any mention of waterproof. Anybody had any experience with any of them failing?

[DAVY WOTTON]

Knot less connections.
First let me say this. I was first shown this technique by my close friend Dave Whitlock many years ago, and it is one l use on all my floating line set ups for many reasons.
This connection, if done correctly is stronger than any knot that you will use below it.
I note that Cliff is a little concerned to use it for his lines above a 3wt. I can assure you guys that l have used this for very large trout and saltwater species.
I guess l set the leader in about 1/2 inside the fly line.

You can find how to do this in the L.L.Bean Fly Fishing handbook, page 35.
Umpqua also produce the No knot kit.

You must use the correct glue and that is Zap A Gap.

I will add this. Any connection that you use for leader to fly line should periodically be renewed as you will start to cause stress at this point. 1/2 ins of fly line is no loss.

Cliff, just to say that 3 evenings ago l nailed a Brown of 7.10oz here on the white river.
That fish took a small scud to 6x on a 12ft overall leader/tippet. The last thing on my mind was the fly line/leader connection, more the 6x connections to leader and fly !!

But l will admit if l am using line above 8 wt l do not use it, as in that case l am not looking for perfect surface presentations with any degree of surface disturbance that other connections will likely cause, either at put down or during the dead drift.

In fact l make up my leaders in a special way, which l will let you know about in a further post related to nymph tactics.

Tight lines guys,

Davy Wotton.