[Frank Whiton]

Hi to all,

Here are a couple of ways to cut high modulus graphite. Go to Harbor Freight and look at the mini-cut-off saws. You need to remove the metal cutting blade and use a 3" abusive cut-off blade. These saws are in the $25 to $35 range. Great for cutting blanks and truing up edges.

Another method if you want to just cut a blank off is a tube cutter with a very sharp blade. You may have to sharpen the blade your self. I would put a wooden mandrel in the inside of the blank that fits snugly, matching the taper. This will keep the tube from collapsing. I have never done this but I think it would work slick. Just go slow and take your time. I have cut plastic tubing with this method and it works just fine. The key is the mandrel, going slow and the sharp blade. This only works where you are cutting off enough of the blank to support the tube cutter. The cut-off saw is the best method.

Frank

[Jose]

Thanks everyone for your input. I like the idea of supporting the blank from the inside to keep it from collapsing. Makes perfect sense, but I may not have thought of that while I was cutting.

I need to make the cut because my 8 weight kit came with a fighting butt, which I didn't think I wanted, so I was going to just cap the end of the reel seat. I have already glued the blank to the handle, but I now want that piece. This means that I need to cut a bit (7/8 inch) from the base of the blank to fit it on. I'll let you know if this ends in tears or smiles.

Thanks again!

[shorthaul]

An alternate tool would be a triangular file and keep scoring a line around the blank and eventualy breaking it off

[Jose]

I combined two ides- the tube cutter idea and then ended with a small special file that cuts through anything, b/c I saw tiny cracks forming on the edges (Note: I wouldn't use the tube cuter again, although it was a cheap one), but I sanded down the blank end later, so it all worked out. Smiles! I will buy a Dremel tool for this next time. I think that will work well with a small grinding or cut-off wheel.

New questions: I'm about to add the finish to the wraps. Only finish the wraps, right? Is there something else to put on the rod to make it glossy? Or do some people finish the entire rod?

Also, I read someone talk about treating the cork. Is that something that should be done? Must be done?

[imxer]

Try a LIGHT application of car wax after the epoxy has dried & the rod is completed. When the wax is set, give it a light buffing by hand. Looks good without adding a lot of weight to the blank. Be sure to keep it off the "male"
side of the ferrules.

Once again, looking forward to hearing of other suggestions.

[shorthaul]

Jose

If the fighting butt is glued in permanently (non removable) then the epoxy that you glue the butt in with will glue any cracks that happened in cutting it off ---you should be ok

Some cane rods were totally varnished if they weren't impregnated ---the rod was dipped into a tube filled with varnish and a clock motor would pull the rod out slowly for a nice finish---hope there isn't a midge hatch that day. Graphite and glass rods arent normally coated---the resin used in the blank manufacture is usually protection enough.

[Jose]

Thanks guys. The cracks were only on the surface and are now gone due to the sanding down. The fighting butt is removable. I'm going to finish the rod by tomorrow, so I can try to fish it or at least cast it this weekend.