[Troutwhisperer]

Hi everybody,

I knead some advice the other day while in fly shop with my grampa he was getting ready for a trip up to alaska i went to go and get a leader conector for my new fly line, I was lookin at some fancy cortland line leader loop connector. He saw me looking at that and he said I should get these. They where those metal no-knot eyelets. He knowing more about fishing in general, im the flyfisherman in the family, then i do right now. So i trusted him

When i got home that night i tried putting the in my fly line they poked out the sid as i pushed them in. I tried several times wasting 1-2 insches of fly line. Not much i realize but just enough to figure out in kneeded to ask the people i trust. (dont want to ask grampa, i'll have to hear about it for a year and a half )

I have to quetions:
1: are the no knot eyelets a good idea or should i go with the cortland line connector or is there somethin else better

2: And if the no knot eyelets are a good idea how do i get them in the line.

Im sure you guys can help me i'll have to thank you in advance.

[kayakangler]

I had the same problem with those. I just could not get it to go into the fly line all the way. I use the Cortland leader loops and really like them. I can't always get them so as an alternative I sometimes connect a short 30 lb. piece of mono to the fly line with an Albright knot, then tie a Perfection Loop in the end of the mono then loop my leader to that. I find that method kind of makes the leader hinge a bit and as soon as I can get the leader loops I put one of those on.

[Frank Whiton]

Hi Troutwhisperer,

I experimented with those back in the 70's. I was able to get them into my my line but over time they failed. After using one for a while the fly line started to break right at the end that was pushed into the fly line. I have to say they would be a very poor choice for Alaska or any where you might catch a large fish. So my recommendation is don't use them.

You probably have the end of the line open now and you need to seal it with some Zap-A-Gap or other water proof super glue. You can add the Cortland braided loops but don't rely on the heat shrink to hold the loop on. If I were you I would take your fly line to the fly shop and ask if they will help you put on a mono loop on the end of the line after you seal it.

Here is a thread that will tell you how to fasten a mono loop to the end of your fly line if you want to try it yourself.

If you want to try the braided loop, here is how to do that. You need to feed the loop onto the fly line end. Some of the braided material may be frayed and you can trim that up. You need to serve (wrap with thread) the braid and some of the fly line to have a smooth transition. You need about 1/8 on the fly line and 1/4 to 3/8 on the braid. Cover the thread with Pliobond or Goop. I like Pliobond as it doesn't get as hard as Zap-A-Gap or other types of super glues.

Here is a second way to attached the braided loop. Thread the braid onto the fly line like before. Instead of serving the braid to the fly line, tie a Nail Knot at the junction on top of the braid. Pull it very tight and trim off the ends. Cover the Nail Knot with Pliobond and you are good to go.

Frank

[wfosborn]

Hi Troutwhisperer,

You got some good advice from Frank. I've had problems with those braided loops coming apart on me after hooking up a couple of good size salmon. Now I either get a fly line with a loop on the end, or nail knot on a piece of 30# floro with a perfection loop on the end to build my leader from. I find that much more durable, and easier casting.

Hope that helps a little,
--W

[Frank Whiton]

Hi wfosborn,

I use to recommend not to use a braided loop on any rod over a 5wt. We now have the super loops that have Kevlar woven into the weave. I wonder how well they work. I still wouldn't rely on the shrink wrap to secure the loop.

Kaufmann's Super Loop


Kevlar Super Loops: a braided loop with Kevlar woven into the braid for strength. Each package contains four loops with different diameters, complete with instructions. Specify 1/2" loops for leaders or 6" loops for heads

[wfosborn]

Hi Frank,

I haven't tried those Kaufmann's loops, only the Cortland ones. I'm not sure the kevlar would help much, mine didn't seem to take much damage, I never had one show any signs of wear before it failed. My problem wasn't so much with them breaking or pulling off the line, more like the braiding would pull apart where it was spliced back into itself. Your coating with pliobond might help with that problem if you coated the braiding up far enough, I never did give that a try.

--W

[Frank Whiton]

Hi wfosborn,

I have never used the braided loop but some fishers use them and I want them to have the best connection possible. I just ordered some of the Kaufmann Super Loops to play with.

How are you doing with your Nautilus? Have you got any Salmon yet this year?

Frank

[wfosborn]

Hi Frank,

Let me know how those Kaufmann's work out.

The Nautilus is great, I've caught about 30 pinks on it so far this season, and hooked up with a couple of early, unexpected silvers on it that I lost (but not due to any fault of reel.) The great drag on that reels been a lifesaver. I think that the drag on that reel has gotten even smoother after a few fish. Definitely goes down to a lighter drag setting now, though it still cranks down very tight. Takes some pretty good abuse without bothering it at all too. Saving up until I can replace my other reels with NV's as well. Thanks for the recommendation on that one.

--W

[WANTONJ]

They had those metal eyelets in the sixtys,I tried them when they first came out never had problems inserting them but they would break the line where the end of the eyelet ended,I tried loops with heat shrink but they can come loose unless you put some epoxy on and slide the shrink over it and then shrink it,the problem with loops is it has a hinge effect at the leader butt which I dont care for,what I think works real well is a nail knot for your leader connection,I have not had one of those ever fail,it makes a solid connection with no hinge effect,cabelas sells a real neat nail knot tool that makes it so easy anybody can make a nice and neat knot,there is a video on utube that shows you how to do it, I even use the tool to make my tapered leaders by using a double nail knot it is cleaner than a blood knot.
have a good and safe day.
Captain Wayne Valley Fire Service,Valley Springs Calif.

[Hardyreels]

Originally Posted by Troutwhisperer

Hi everybody,

I knead some advice the other day while in fly shop with my grampa he was getting ready for a trip up to alaska i went to go and get a leader conector for my new fly line, I was lookin at some fancy cortland line leader loop connector. He saw me looking at that and he said I should get these. They where those metal no-knot eyelets. He knowing more about fishing in general, im the flyfisherman in the family, then i do right now. So i trusted him

When i got home that night i tried putting the in my fly line they poked out the sid as i pushed them in. I tried several times wasting 1-2 insches of fly line. Not much i realize but just enough to figure out in kneeded to ask the people i trust. (dont want to ask grampa, i'll have to hear about it for a year and a half )

I have to quetions:
1: are the no knot eyelets a good idea or should i go with the cortland line connector or is there somethin else better

2: And if the no knot eyelets are a good idea how do i get them in the line.

Im sure you guys can help me i'll have to thank you in advance.

I live in Alaska and fish too much but while fishing I make my line to leader connection as follows; nail knot 20" of 30lb. chartreuse amnesia to your fly line, then make a perfection loop at the end of it, this should leave you with about 14 - 16 inches of butt / sight indicator with a loop so now you can attach any leader material you want. For most streamer, Salmon or any big fish use just use level leaders it'll make your life simpler.

This rig allows for you to see the top 16 inches of your leader thus making it easier to know where your fly is at in relation to the butt. It is about the toughest connection I've found. The braided looped leader connectors from Cortland and others will sometimes pull off after repeated exposure to 20 pound fish and larger ones just pull them off quicker. The little barbed eyes are out of the question also if you are after big game.

When fishing Feather Wing Streamers for big Rainbows and Char or dragging the bottom for Salmon that chartreuse butt connector becomes very effective for knowing where the fly is at. You simply make sure you know the legnth of the line you have connected to it and you lead the fly along with the high vis stuff. Try it you may like it. If you listen to this advise young Skywalker you too can become a Jeddi Fisherman.