This is a challenging pattern and those of you who tie Salmon flies will note that I’m leaving out some of the elements of this classic pattern. I’m leaving them out in the interest of getting this particular pattern tied up in some form of reasonableness and what is left out represents what I’ve tried and failed to achieve in the tie.
So, here we go……..
1. I used a Partridge Bartleet CS10/1 hook; #1/0 for this pattern, because there’s a lot going on in both the body and the wing. After threading the hook, tie in the flat silver tinsel tag just above the tip of the barb using flattened wraps. [ According to Tom, the tag on a Jock Scott is entirely tinsel; no tinsel/floss combination, as you often see. He also leaves you the choice of using oval or flat tinsel; saying that he prefers flat tinsel, so that’s the way that I went.]
2. Wind the tinsel forward using butt wraps, to a point just above the tip of the hook and tie it off with flattened wraps.
3. Select a Golden Pheasant topping and tie it in right above the hook point; at the point where the tinsel tag ends, using flattened wraps.
4. Select an Indian Crow substitute and mount the feather flat at the point where you tied in the GP topping. Use your pliers or tweezers to put an upward bend in the feather, so that it doesn’t press down on the GP topping when you tie it in. [I left some short barbs on the stem and it made it easier to tie in the IC feather and it made it much firmer with the tie-in. You can see the short barbs in the picture. I used scissors to cut them short. Tom’s recommendation.]
5. Now, tie in the black ostrich herl butt. Be sure that the barbs are pointed toward the back of the hook; not pointing forward. 4-5 wraps is enough. Tie it off with flattened wraps and trim up the waste ends of the feathers.
6. Next, strip the metal from the end of the medium oval silver tinsel and tie it in using flattened wraps. Bring it right back to the herl butt.
7. Now, advance the thread to the head and tie in the Uni-stretch floss to form the underbody. You can use a variety of materials to form the overall shape of the body, but white Uni-stretch is the best material that I’ve worked with for this purpose.
8. Next, shape the underbody. It’s become very fashionable among Salmon fly tyers to use big, cigar-shaped bodies, but I prefer a more moderate shape. Thin or thick; it’s your choice, but you need to have some tapered shape to the body. Burnish if you like, to get a smooth underbody.
9. Next, wind the flattened thread back down the hook to a point about 2/5th of the way from the bend to the eye and tie in the dark yellow floss. Wind the floss down to the butt and back to the tie-in point, using flattened butt wraps. Tie it off with flattened wraps. [Note: when you tie in at the 2/5th point, you’re actually setting yourself up to get a visual effect that’s about 50:50, because the head distorts the overall length of the body once the fly is completed.]
10. Now, wind the oval silver tinsel diagonally up the floss and tie it off at the floss tie-in point.
11. Now, here’s one of the steps that I skipped. At this point, you’re supposed to veil the butt with Toucan breast feather substitutes; both above and below the hook. I tried; with two different subs and I didn’t like the looks of the product, because my skills aren’t what they need to be to tie this pattern according to its classic recipe. By all means, add the veilings, it will add a lot to the overall look of the fly. I’ll try again next time, but this time it just wasn’t going to happen for me.
12. Next, add the second butt. This is black ostrich herl, again, and is tied in the same way as the first butt. [Note: the Jock Scott has what’s called a segmented body and the different segments are often times separated by a butt. Also, if you’re successful with the veilings, then they will leave a hump in the body that needs to be covered; the butt also does this, just as it does for the tail.]
13. Now, tie in all of the components for the forward body. First, strip the metal off of the medium oval silver tinsel and tie it in as you did for the back body, right up against the butt. Second, tie in the medium flat tinsel, silver side up, so that it wraps silver (this is for those of you who use gold/mylar tinsel). Third, wind the flat tinsel up the forward body two wraps and mark the underside of the body with a pen at the point where the second tinsel wrap hits the underside of the body. Tip tie in a black rooster hackle at this point, after you’ve folded it. Last, tie in the black floss at the head of the hook. There’s a lot going on in this forward body, so there are a lot of materials hanging off the hook at this point.
14. Then, use the following steps to form the forward body. First, wrap the black floss back to the butt, being careful not to trap any of the hackle fibers in the process, then forward again, using butt wraps in each case, and tie it off at the tie-in point with flattened wraps. Second, wind the flat silver tinsel up the body and tie it off at the head with flattened wraps. Third, wind the oval silver tinsel up the body; just behind and touching the flat silver tinsel; tie it off at the head with flattened wraps. Finally, wind the black rooster hackle up the body starting where the second tinsel wrap lies, making sure to fold the barbs back as you go. Tie it off at the head with flattened wraps.
15. Next, pull the black hackle barbs diagonally down towards the hook point and pinch them around the hook to keep them in place. Then, tip tie in a Guinea Fowl hackle just in front of the black rooster hackle. Make sure that the smallest barb on the GF feather is the same size as the longest barb on the black rooster hackle. Take 2-3 wraps the tie it off with flattened wraps. Finally, pull the GF hackle diagonally down towards the hook point and press the barbs around the hook to keep them in place. Tie off the white thread and tie on the black thread.
That’s it for the body.
I’ll try to post the wing either next weekend or before.
Post or PM with any questions or comments that you have.
Well, here we go with the wing for this pattern; not a simple one for sure! The underwing is simpler than that on the Silver Doctor, but the additional materials that are added after the married wing is mounted make this pattern, to me, a more challenging one.
1. Starting with the hackled body, cut two wing slips from right and left halves of a white tipped Turkey tail. [Note: white-tipped Turkey was an item that nobody had in stock, for some reason. So, John at FeathersMC shipped me out some Royal Palm, which has the same kind of white tip as the real McCoy.]
2. Pair the white turkey slips, back-to-back and mount them on the top of the hook, so that they’re centered. [It’s important on any pattern that has an underwing, to get that wing mounted in a perfectly centered position, because all of the other wing materials sit on top of it. If it’s not straight down the hook shank, then nothing that you tie in later will be, either.]
3. Next, form the married wing, the same way that you formed the married wing on the Silver Nurse and Silver Doctor patterns. The wing that I used followed Tom’s recipe. There are various recipes for the wing, as you’ll see from other posted pictures of this fly. I used: Florican Bustard sub., dyed Red Turkey, dyed Yellow Turkey, dyed Blue Turkey, Kori Bustard and mottled brown Turkey; from the bottom to the top. Here are the two married wings formed up:
4. Now, pair the married wings, back-to-back and mount them on top of the hook as you would with any slip wing pattern. [Note: some days are good days and others are not so good. On a good day, the married wing might mount well on your first try; on a bad day, it might be your 15th try. For me, it was my 7th try. Don’t worry too much about the married wing not being usable after you’ve tied it in and taken it off; they’re tougher than you might think. Just smooth them back together with your thumb and forefinger and they will come right back to life for you.] Be sure to hump the wing, so that it will lie just on top of the white-tipped Turkey, with the top half of the underwing showing.
5. Now, it’s time to start adding the peripheral feathers that make up this pattern. The first are the shoulders, which are made up of barred Wood Duck married to Pintail Duck (or Gadwall Duck). These feathers wouldn’t marry well for me, so I mounted just the barred Wood Duck, with a slightly wider slip. Here are the barred Wood Duck slips; taken from a right and a left feather:
6. Mount the barred Wood Duck/Pintail on either side of the married wing; just above the mid-point on the married wing:
7. Next, we add Jungle Cock nails. Here are two nails that have been prepared as Tom suggests; leaving short barbs below the tie-in point; in order to get better “anchorage” of the feather when it’s tied in. It makes the stem of the feather look “fuzzy”, which is what give it a better attachment under the thread.
8. Mount the Jungle Cock nails on either side of the married wing; just below the mid-line on the married wing, with the tips just inside of the barring on the Wood Duck slip:
9. Next, form the mallard roof; the same way that you did for the Silver Doctor pattern. Here are two mallard slips; taken from left and right mallard flank feathers:
10. Next, tie in the mallard slips on both sides of the leading edge of the married wing, so that it lies along the top of the wing when it’s completed:
11. Next, add the Blue Chatterer cheeks. These are two Blue Chatterer feathers, prepped as Tom recommends, with scissor-trimmed short barbs just below the tie-in point, to add stability to the feather once it’s tied in. [Note: this is the real thing; Cotinga Cayana, not Kingfisher- I thought that this pattern deserved Blue Chatterer.]
12. Trim them down to size and tie them in so that there’s a good amount of barred Wood Duck and Jungle Cock nail still showing.
13. Next, select a Golden Pheasant topping, form it as you need it by pinching the stem between your thumb pad and index finger nail and once formed tie it in on top of the wing assembly. Be sure to notch the base of the stem where you want to tie it onto the hook. Then, mount it on top of the wing assembly, so that it compliments that GP tail.
14. Finally, trim up the feather waste ends, form the head with tying thread and coat it 2-3 times with your favorite head cement. I use SHHAN; courtesy of Joni.
And that’s it; the Jock Scott!
As the man said……..”It’s all downhill from here!” And I, for one, am really glad that it is!
Post or PM me with any comments or questions that you may have.
That's a good looking fly. I haven't tied any salmon flies since I made that ugly Silver Doctor. I have hardly done any fly tying lately. I made a few Gartside Softhackle Streamers a few days ago. I have been trying to get my yard cleaned up before it gets too hot. I do look forward to the easier patterns of the Spey and Dee....lol. I need more practice on the Salmon flies that are difficult. Thank you Allan for all the hard work you put in on this.
You've seen this picture before and I promise to tie a new one this weekend and post it on the thread but this will keep the thread alive. This was a time challenge tie that I did. The fly is far from perfect but you can tell what it's supposed to be.
Thank you, it seems to look like a Scott but there are a few things missing. It is for sure good enough to fish with though. About a year ago I saw a thread somewhere else where the tiers are what you could call expert level. They were having a 30 minute Jock Scott tying thread, yeah right...............
I didn't post the fly to their thread because I spent about 30 minuets making the wing. Once I had the wing ready to mount I was able to wrap the other stuff faster than I thought I could but all together the fly took an hour to make.
I am going to try to make the Silver Doctor and another Jock Scott today and I'm not going to hurry
I know that some of you will be tying up the Jock Scott and some of the other featherwing patterns in the coming days and weeks, but i wanted to give you all a head start on the materials for the next pattern; a Spey pattern. This pattern uses far fewer exotic feathers and is much more straightforward to tie up.
The Spey pattern in Tom's book is called the "Green King". It dates from the last half of the 19th century; the one before last.
Here are the materials that you'll need; feel free to substitute:
1. Hook: Partridge Bartleet CS10/1 or equivalent; #4-5/0
2. Thread: Danville Flymaster 6/0, white and black
3. Body: Green Berlin wool or equivalent (medium-dark green)
4. Ribs: Tinsel, flat, silver, medium / twist, round, silver medium / tinsel, flat, gold, medium
5. Hackle: Spey cock hackle or equivalent (you'll have to use a sub here, because there aren't any Spey roosters left on the planet). Fortunately, there are a lot of substitutes, including schlappen, burnt goose, blue eared pheasant, etc.)
6. Throat: Widgeon or equivalent
7. Wings: Bronze Mallard strips, tied short.
That's it for materials.
I know that a lot of you tie Spey patterns, so feel free to tie up what you like in this type of pattern and post it to the thread, so that we can see some of the possible variations.