I have used Clear Cure Goo but NOT for saltwater patterns.
The advantage of the product is that there is little wastage because it cures with UV light and it is non yellowing. Because it needs UV light to cure, you can save the unused portion by covering it with aluminum foil to keep it shielded from light and it will last for literally months.
It can be applied and then spread with a toothpick or with a small art brushes (3 for $2.99) at JoAnns. The clean up of the brush is with 70% isopropyl alcohol.
The single disadvantage I have found is that the regular goo cures with a slight tacky residual that you need to cover with either Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails, Head Cement, Clear Cure Goo Hydo.
There are now several Tack Free products. However there are NO tack free thick products so if you need a thick covering, it might be easier to us the regular tacky thick product and then cover it with a coat of the tack free Hydro product. Other wise it will take multiple coats of the thinner tack free products.
For my use, the regular stuff cures in about 15 seconds or less using the UV LED flashlight. The light is expensive and if you want to try the stuff first, I would recommend buying the product you want, and do the coating in a room with the window shades pulled and artificial light. Then take the flies outside into direct sunlight and they will cure in a minute.
I used to use epoxy but I am now a believer in Clear Cure Goo. There is no mixing of the epoxy or any wastage or yellowing. You can turn out a single sample fly before tying up a bunch of flies and then coating them with epoxy to find out you don't like them or it didn't torn out right.
You can figure out what is the right production method. I tried tying the complete flies and then coating vs
tying the body, then coating and drying the body, then putting on the dubbed head and soft hackle. I tried different types of bodies and coated each one to see how they would look. CCG is great for turning out One Off Patterns.
Here are the products: