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Flies Questions about flies. What flies work and don't work. Complete fly talk...

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Old 03-30-2012, 06:20 PM
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Default Re: Tapering bodies ??'s

Cheaper to find copper.
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:11 AM
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Default Re: Tapering bodies ??'s

Not sure I understand what is going on here. So you're wrapping the hooks for your Copper Johns and Brassies with lead? Why bother with the lead? You've got beads and the actual wire to weight the fly. If you want a taper, just build the abdomen with a thread underbody the shape you want before winding your wire. If you really really feel the need for more weight then maybe wrap just a few turns of lead under what will become the thorax which in the case of these patterns should be covered with thread and peacock herl.

Hope that helps.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:14 AM
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Default Re: Tapering bodies ??'s

The lead is to make them heavy enough to get down deep when needed. I have tied a few without much if any lead but there are spots I fish really deep and want to get down faster than. I also plan to use them for steelhead in fast water so getting down quick can be very important.

In some of my lakes it won't matter because they are shallow and I won't want them to sink really fast.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:26 AM
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Default Re: Tapering bodies ??'s

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Originally Posted by trout333 View Post
Not sure I understand what is going on here. So you're wrapping the hooks for your Copper Johns and Brassies with lead? Why bother with the lead? You've got beads and the actual wire to weight the fly. If you want a taper, just build the abdomen with a thread underbody the shape you want before winding your wire. If you really really feel the need for more weight then maybe wrap just a few turns of lead under what will become the thorax which in the case of these patterns should be covered with thread and peacock herl.

Hope that helps.
No lead is used for a brassie but on a Copper John, the original pattern calls for lead wire under the copper wire. It is formed just as you say.

If the lead wire can fit into the countersunk end of the brass bead, it is pushed into that area as well. I pinch the back end of the lead wire so there is a natural taped when I wind it on the hook shank. I wind the lead onto the bare hook so it can be pushed into the rear of the bead and then overwrap it with the thread to provide the smooth contour for the copper wire overwrap.

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Old 04-26-2012, 02:41 PM
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Default Re: Tapering bodies ??'s

Good stuff so far. A few other things to chew on...

When tying a stone, definitely flatten out the lead wire. The natural does not have a round body shape, it's oval. I'll also use dental floss to help even out the taper by wrapping over the lead and over the hook shank. For brassies, I would pass on the lead wire on the body. I would instead focus on putting a few wraps up by the bead and inside the bead head and maybe a turn or two on the thorax. The other more costly option is go with tungsten beads. You could always double bead it and then dub lightlyover the the second bead in the thorax.

I agree, flat wire or tungsten tape is ideal for weighted flys where a slim body is desirable.

Silver, I'm going to start calling you "Mr. Sticky" since your posts consistently have great content!
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:27 PM
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Default Re: Tapering bodies ??'s

Thanks Jay,

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Old 06-22-2012, 11:25 PM
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Default Re: Tapering bodies ??'s

Get some lead tape. Find it online or even in the golf section of your local sporting goods store. It's easier to taper your flies and a bit easier to work with too. Cut it to fit your needs.
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