I looked at the video for the slack, its hard to spot, I did pinch the line once the line was out with my casting hand. with the rod in the video I notice alot of wiggle to the line as the loop goes over top as I stop the cast?
Trust me, the slack is there. I've become tuned into this while watching my wife cast. Charles Ritz discusses the role of the left hand in his book, A Fly Fisher's Life, and warns the reader that it plays a critical role in casting. If you watch your video, sometimes your left hand follows the right hand on the backcast, and sometimes the left remains down while the right
hand moves back. If you don't adjust the movement of your left arm to keep tension on the line during all parts of the cast, it's going to go slack at some point. As I said n my earlier post, you want to assess every movement you make while casting, as each must work together. Hauling down with the left hand while casting is very common, but you must take the next steps required with such a movement (in addition to hauling at the correct time).
Honestly, your best bet is to find a shop with a competent caster/instructor. A competent caster should be able to help you, but a competent instructor would be best. They have little tricks to help you isolate movement, and will quickly point out anything that shouldn't be happening. I spent so many years casting without a clue about mechanics, and really regret having waited over two decades before realizing that I needed help. When I first casted with an instructor, I was amazed at how far, fast, and accurately he was able to cast, and with such little effort(!). There are books available on casting, but many of them might strike a beginner as being overly complicated. I'd recommend any of the beginner's books on general fly fishing instead. Orvis and L.L. Bean both publish good books.
EDIT: Look at the video between 00:23-00:25, and you'll see the slack form.
thanks Frank, I just got the other cam form a friend so i shuld have a chance to do another video from the side, this cam is HD and much better for this type of shot. I do find myself messing up more once I try to double haul, so I have been hauling on the backstroke and holding the line for the forward, but not sure my left hand is doing this right. Im sure my watching the line also affected it. funny how we do our best when no cams and noones watching. Ill try again this evening. thanks again.
SO TRUE about messing up on camera, or even when you say "Watch this." I have to use my wife in my stories, as I fish with her so often. When she needs to see something demonstrated, I'll take her rod and tuck mine under my left arm. The demos usually goes fine, but I've thrown a few tailing loops that wrap around the tip of her rod.... It's tough to cast like that.
When my wife knows I'm watching, she can have a bad streak a mile long. I'll give her some parting advice, and wade 50 yards away. More often than not, she'll start casting beautiful tight loops! Sometimes I'll take out the video camera and film this so she can see it later. This past weekend she was casting like a pro from the moment we hit the stream. She was also casting with the reel facing outward. Some people say that reduces line drag through the guides, but I have no idea where she came up with it. I never even mentioned it to her, as she was casting perfectly.
A double haul can be like rubbing your head and patting your stomach. One of the best tips I received was to visualize playing a violin to get the motion of double haul correct. It worked for me.
Location: Lake of the Woods/Rainy River Minnesota Canada border
Re: Bad video of me casting
Try putting your right foot forward instead of your left. Make your right hand follow a plane parallel to the ground. You are hooking it down at the end. You may be rushing the cast also. Try those and see what happens.
1. You start your first cast with the rod at or above waist level. This means there is slack line from the rod tip to the fly. Before beginning your first cast, low the rod tip to the ground (water) and pull the line tight. The cast cannot start until the fly begins to move. By starting with the rod tip high and with slack in the line, you have lost stroke length on that very important first backcast.
2. Your acceleration is poor and you are reaching out with your hand and arm on the forward cast before the stop. You are doing this to try to lengthen your stroke to compensate for a poor acceleration and especially for a weak stop. The reaching out causes your hand to decelerate and this causes poor energy transfer and poor loop formation.
You can practice without a rod and the line. Get a paint brush and a bucket of water. Stand about 4 feet from a wall, wet the brush and try to flick the water at about forehead level.
Now look at your casting video and ask yourself if that rod was a paint brush, how hard is the acceleration and stop to flick the water, and where would the water land on the wall?
As you cast longer. I also notice that you sometimes lay your wrist back on the backcast as well. Try to keep that wrist firm.
3. Look at the video at about 51 seconds. You rotate your body as you cast. This causes your hand and the rod tip to go in an angled arc, from upper right to lower left. This means at the stop, the rod tip is going to the left and your cast will curve to the left, reducing accuracy. You can see this curve on the back cast at about 1:28 in the video. See how the loop hooks back around because of the circular rod tip path.
I would correct the rod tip path by changing your stroke to follow path as you would do to pound a nail into a wall that is right in front of your right shoulder at about forehead level. This is the same stroke and stop that you would use to flick the water off of the paint brush. Both exercises will shorten and speed your acceleration and harden the rod stop that you need for good loop formation.
There is way too much body motion and stroke length for the distance of your casts.
4. Work on the correct rod stroke. Here is simplified stroke that you can use to practice. Using a pencil or some other short substitute fro a rod, start with the rod pointing to the ground. Bring your hand so that it is right beside your right ear - not to the side in your usual motion but straight up to your ear. The pencil should be pointing at about 1 o'clock.
Allow your elbow to lower slowly UNTIL your locked hand and wrist follow a forward and downward path and your locked wrist and pencil point to 11 O'clock. Now STOP.
Now unlock you wrist and flick the pencil to about 10 O'clock.
That hard stop and short flick (what is called a micro wrist) causes loop formation. The greater that wrist motion and flick, the larger the loop will become. Naturally, there is the opposite flick on the backcast also. So it is MICRO flick that lowers the rod tip a bit to allow the line to pass over the rod tip and not hit the rod.
What is important is the fast acceleration that occurs not at the start of the stroke but just before the stop. Work on a very hard stop. Those two improvement will help you cast the most and avoid the need for overly false casting.
I also noted that you made some cast without the line held firmly in your left hand or under a finger of your rod hand. The fly line must be under your control at all times. Casting with the line loose, allows the line to slip from the reel at the rod stops. This saps the effect of a hard stop by slipping line into the cast without your control.
I know I have given you a lot to work on but what you need is a good FOUNDATION CASTING STROKE. Then you can build on this foundation.