Originally Posted by Diver Dan
Today he called me and said "I had a Eureka moment!" By accident he missed the first stripper guide.
Interesting! Here is a picture of three rods with the tops of the reel seats lined up. The middle rod is a standard TCX 7 wt.
The top rod is the model (5 wt) Jerry Siem designed to beat Steve Rajeff (and Loomis) at the Best of the West distance championship a few years ago - The TCR "X" prefix. Although it didn't work, the TCR (x)
was the rod used by every finalist except for Steve (who won with a Loomis of his design).
Notice the position of the stripping guide compared to a stock TCX.
The bottom rod (8 wt) is one that a guy named Peter Phelps made for me in the late 80's, the only rod I've had made from graphite. I specified the placement of the stripping guide way up there to get it further from my stripping basket.
After casting that rod , I discovered that friction from the haul was considerably less than with them jammed up close to the reel. Only recently did I discover why. It was during a discussion of line wear. From stills grabbed from videos, it became obvious that as the pull angle on the stripping guide becomes more acute, the faster the line wears due to increased friction with the stripping guide (which is nothing more than wasted energy, which in turn, slows down haul acceleration).
I think it also helps in reducing friction when the line is free shooting (not throught a line hand donut) because the shooting line doesn't tend to carry so far beyond the stripping guide then have get back through it from up front of the guide.
As far as whilch rod for Bill, I don't know. I never get a chance to cast new rods because there are no shows near enough to me and I don't even have anyone to fly fish with anymore. All the guys I've fished with in the past were just very good fishermen and self taught fly casters, a couple very good casters, but who didn't keep up on rod technology.
I did cast a Sintrex 12 wt a while back (and set back my shoulder healing) and it had a butt diameter about the same as my 7 wt. However, it didn't have to balls to carry a 12 wt rio tarpon line well. So I would consider it an 11 wt. max for me, since I like that taper for tarpon and other fish who tend to spook easily. The butt diameter seemed to be about 7 or 8 weight diameter, but I don't know about further up which is what really counts.
One thing I'd really be interested in finding out would be Bill's reaction
if he tried, on his forward haul, to bring his hauling hand through much higher than he normall does by cocking his elbox up whille bringing his line hand into his chest and then snapping back with elbow and wrist pronation. That would be opposed to his normal forward haul with a straighter elbow and a long curving arc. The final haul length would be the same
, but the pull angle on the stripping guide will be much straighter and the distance traveled by the line hand would be shorter.
It is not as comfortable as the big arc haul - espcially with an open casting stance- but I am curious.
I am still resting my shoulder and am afraid to do any casting at all.
I am not that big a fan of the CCS system, primarily because the testing is a static test using an arbitrary rod bend factor which is way, way below what occurs during long casts. For instance, on a perfect casting day, I can cast my TCR 8 wt (10.8 wt on the CCS scale) the furthest with a 6 wt MED line. I use a 7 wt floating line when fishing with it. Using the CCS values I am underlining by 3 or 4 line weights. Using the Sage value I am underlining by only one when fishing, so I prefer Sage's rod ratings.