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-   -   Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT (http://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/fly-cast/260097-flycast-tips-tricks-1wt.html)

comeonavs 04-01-2012 06:02 PM

Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT
 
Well it is 85 in Denver today, yard work is done for the spring....lawn is aerated and fertilized. The sprinklers are dialed in and the trees and bushes are trimmed.

My weekends are ready to be spent on the pursuit of staring aimlessly at miles of high mountain streams while unemcumbered by iphones, blackberries,mobile hotspots for laptops ahhhhhhhhhh:D

I broke out the 7' 1wt this afternoon as well as 5 or 6 other rods to inspect the reels / lines etc etc. So I need all of your help. When casting my 1WT the forward cast is fine, I get a fairly tight loop and decent line speed for a 1WT. My question is the back cast, I noticed the line is so light it sort of really limps out and falls flat after about 20' of line come out. In other words with 30' out on a 4wt I have 30' of line parallel to the ground on the backcast.With the 1Wt it sort of collapses towards the ground.I know what you are thinking rght now and no I never take this over 25-30' max, after all it is a 1WT saved for those perfect August afternoons free of wind and plenty of Caddis hatch.

Someone on here talked about casting and having a positive stop (squeeze the cork) as you stop your forward cast. That helps so much with the UL gear.

Any tips for the backcast ?

I should add I am not a great caster of flies but also not terrible either. Generally I dont collapse or breakdown on the backcast, I tend to keep an even plane on my cast.....like I said not great but not bad either.

txshane 04-01-2012 07:24 PM

Re: Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT
 
I don't have a 1wt, but I have a couple of 2wts. They're my favorite rods. They are also vastly different from each other. One is an 8'6" fast action, and the other is a 6'6" full flex rod. The longer fast action rod casts much more similarly to my bigger fast action rods. I get good line speed and tight loops pretty easily.

The short full flex rod is a different story. I LOVE the rod, but it's a completely different feel to cast. You have to give it more time before changing directions in your cast, because it just doesn't generate the high line speed that a faster rod does. That slower line speed with the shorter rod means that the line will fall to the ground/water behind you in the back cast if you're not careful. If I make sure and send the back cast up and back rather than just back, then it works just fine. I also have to slow my arm down a little so that I don't move through my stroke faster than the tip of the rod can keep up with.

flymark 04-01-2012 08:05 PM

Re: Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT
 
Check your cast timing - your 1WT is probably a slower action than your other rods - you'll just have to adjust your timing to it. It helps to watch the back cast until you get the hang of it - and make sure you're stopping the rod right away. My 2 weight is the slowest rod I own, and if I'm not careful, I have similar problems. It's all about getting the timing right, and getting the rod stopped on the back cast.

comeonavs 04-01-2012 08:05 PM

Re: Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT
 
Thank you that helped significantly,slower back and up , letting the rod worked much better. My 1wt is a 7' but more towards a med-fast. Not that distance really matters on a 1wt but I was able to maintain good control out to 28' of line plus 10' leader.

i was once once asked when fishing my 4wtt if I need a 80' cast what do I do.......answer is walk 25' closer or move on.

Hardyreels 04-01-2012 08:46 PM

Re: Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT
 
Glad to see another problem solved by our members relating to their personal experiences!

So many times when a fellow asks a question the answers are short posts with a link to some video pasted saying 'watch this guy, he's really good'. I look at these post and I think; if a person is using the forum, that person could probably figure out how to find a U tube link on their own, right? Seeing our people take the time to type out clear answers to questions that are based on what they know not what they watched on-line is my favorite thing to find here.

Just to show you how happy I am everyone on the thread is getting a Reputation boost from me :D If you don't understand the 'Rep' system drop me a PM and I'll explain.

Great set of posts here fellas!

Ard

troutbum1982 03-23-2013 12:03 AM

Re: Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT
 
Just a question.... why a 1wt.?? Tried a 3wt once, with the wind around here it was a nightmare.

silver creek 03-23-2013 02:03 PM

Re: Flycast tips or tricks for a 1WT
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by comeonavs (Post 424886)
When casting my 1WT the forward cast is fine, I get a fairly tight loop and decent line speed for a 1WT. My question is the back cast, I noticed the line is so light it sort of really limps out and falls flat after about 20' of line come out. In other words with 30' out on a 4wt I have 30' of line parallel to the ground on the backcast.With the 1Wt it sort of collapses towards the ground.

I would be surprised if a higher trajectory actually cured the backcast problem.

A fly rod doesn't not know if it is casting forward or backward. So if the casting stroke is identical in both directions, the forward and back casts will be equal.

What the higher backcast trajectory has done is to allow a longer time before gravity brings your "limp" cast down to the ground. This allows the backcast to fully extend but it does nothing "cure" the limp cast if the trajectory change was all that was done.

I think your problem is an unbalanced casting stroke which leads to the unbalanced cast. I would say that 99% of casters have a forward cast that is better than their back cast. So at the forward limit of your casting distance, your weaker backcast has revealed itself. If I want to improve my casting distance, it is not my forward cast that I need to work on, but my back cast.

I can't tell you what the problem in your backcast is without a video, but I think there are several possibilities. One is a soft stop. Another is poor acceleration. Another is a convex tip path.

My advice is to work, not only on the angle of your backcast; but on the backcast itself, regardless of the angle of the backcast. One way to do this is to make your cast sidearm so you can look at your backcast as you make it.


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