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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 11:58 PM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

I have used Gary Borger's formula for years. To repeat--4' of .020, 1' of .013, 4' of 1x (drys) or 2x (wets), tippet 4x to 6x, minimum of 24". These are good leaders and very easy to tie. The latest version of the pure Harvey leader begins with .015 and for my lighter rods, I start with that for 4', go down to .011 for 1', and 4' of 2x then the tippet. And, I tie that last leader with all soft material.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:52 AM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

Quote:
What type of flies are you casting with this 12' 4# level leader? And what type of water? Can you place the fly on a paper plate 30' away from where you are standing? Inside a hula-hoop at 45'? If so, then more power to ya man!
Size #12, 14, and 16 royal wulffs -- size #14 sallies -- #14 beadhead brassies and a bobber at one point up above on the fly line >> leader loop.

Dry fly fishing is fun, but I intend to fish nymphs and soft hackles to rising fish more this year. The dries don't seem to take the bigger fish during a hatch, just like what I've experienced with bluegill (i.e. the most "dumb", smaller ones hit your foam beetles, the larger ones stay under and hit wet flies at their depth).

For casting, I doubt I was hitting more than 20-30' on the water the entire time I went out last time. I constantly cast in a field near my home using a couple of white towels and measuring tape. Putting the fly in a hula hoop at 45' isn't a problem at all, though I probably miss it slightly every few casts.

When I get to 60'+ I lost accuracy quite a bit, but can still get the fly in the ballpark.

I can hit 80' at maximum, and accuracy is really not there....making a cast at this distance pretty pointless for me for anything other than "gee whiz" value. I need more practice! I'll be happy when I can hit 75' with accuracy and 100' without. Then I can go bonefishing!

Of course, I also like to use the water to cast -- sometimes at the end of fishing I"ll work a bit before heading home. I'm probably so used to using nothing but a level leader at this point I've become comfortable with it. Lately I've been working the roll cast pick-up to prep for my sinking tip use this spring on the shad run.

I really don't think that the taper of a leader has much of anything to do with casting accuracy. You're really only affecting (supposedly) how the fly unrolls. If your cast is a ****-sandwich with a level leader, adding a hand-tied or store-bought tapered leader won't change anything.

Like I said - try it before you just assume popular opinion is the only way. Start with yarn, and then move onto weighted flies.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:20 AM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

Mr Turbineblade
I look forward to the day when you resurrect this thread to say "I can't believe how wrong I was !"

---------- Post added at 09:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 AM ----------

Leader Design and Construction


Quote:
IIn its simplest form, a leader is merely a level strand of nylon monofilament tied to the end of the fly line. Unfortunately, except possibly for fishing for panfish where the delicacy of the fly presentation is less important, a level leader is a very poor choice. Such a leader will not turn over properly unless it is quite short, and then it will not deliver the fly lightly to the water. A beginner would do well to take a tip from the experts and avoid the level leader.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:22 AM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

Nah, unlikely. I'm a pretty happy guy .

I promise though that if I do, I'll make sure you see it .

BTW - when I was brand new to fly fishing you were among the first to provide help, and I can't argue much with your take on most things fly fishing.

Your advice is worth 20 of mine, so people should probably ignore my posts for the most part .
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:57 AM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

Unless I'm on a spring creek I just use a furled leader, when on spring creeks I go with the Harvey Leader format, saltwater I use a butt section of 25 to 30lb Mason Hardmono and step to Maxima for the mid and the same for the tippet. Most of my salt water leaders were around 8' give or take and would be 30, 20, 15. If for some reason the fish were fussy then I'd add to the tippet end either 10 or 8lb depending on the size of the fly or bait they were chasing.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:09 AM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rip Tide View Post
Leader Design and Construction


Quote:
IIn its simplest form, a leader is merely a level strand of nylon monofilament tied to the end of the fly line. Unfortunately, except possibly for fishing for panfish where the delicacy of the fly presentation is less important, a level leader is a very poor choice. Such a leader will not turn over properly unless it is quite short, and then it will not deliver the fly lightly to the water. A beginner would do well to take a tip from the experts and avoid the level leader.
Great link, Rip. Thanks!
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:06 PM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

I use hand tied leaders all the time i like mine to roll and land lightly on the water.I have friends that use just the level leader and just pile it on the water but most of these guys are casting short distance and not fishing tailwater.I cant imagine tying a 7x tippet to my line and trying to make a long cast to a rising trout.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:38 PM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

anybody got a good formula for bass or heavier trot streamers something with a heavier butt endung in about 8lb
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:19 PM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpreller View Post
anybody got a good formula for bass or heavier trot streamers something with a heavier butt endung in about 8lb
This has more information than you'll ever need to know.
Download LeaderCalc - The most comprehensive tool for calculating classical and contemporary leaders - and designing your own formulas for knotted leaders - Global FlyFisher
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:34 PM
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Default Re: hand tied leaders

Rip Tide, that's a real good tool for any tapered leader. I've used that one many times.

I tie some of my own leaders, and have been using Yozuri Hybrid. I use it because first, I like it, and second, I use it on baitcasters & spinning gear, so I only have to buy the one brand/type of line. Mine are not typical of what most of you may tie up, because I rarely trout fish. I wanted leaders for turning over big, heavily weighted flies for bass fishing & saltwater.

I often start with either 50lb or 60 lb for the butt. (.028 & .031 dia.) Like Rip Tide, I'll usually go 60%, 20% & 20%, but have tried different variations depending on what I intend to cast with the leader. That LeaderCalc tool can be very useful for making adjustments. I like a tapered leader for poppers, but rarely go longer than about 8ft. with a 20 or 15 lb test tippet depending on the popper sizes & the fish size. A straight piece of mono can be used for poppers too, but I like the tapered leader better. If I'm casting flies, like Clousers, even with a floating line, my leaders are only about 6 ft long for shallow water, 10 ft or less of depth, and then I'll switch to the sinking line once the depth goes over 10 ft.

I use straight leaders too, most often 20 lb test Hybrid, primarily with faster sinking lines & again will vary them as I need. I use a general rule, the faster the current, the shorter I want my leader & tippet. I've tried as short as a foot, but usually no longer than 5 ft.

I'll use straight leaders when fishing in heavy cover too. Like a jig fisherman throwing a jig into the heavy stuff, I'll cast flies into it. I want as few knots as possible, as knots hang up on all kinds of things. This is close range casting, usually within 25 ft, so there isn't much real need for a taper & I may go about the rod length with the leader length. Open water is a different situation.

BTW, I've bought several furled leaders too ( 3 wt, 4 wt, & a 6 wt with multiple lines) made with different materials. I like them, so if & when I get the chance to fish for trout, I'm always prepared!
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