If you read this..... and then think about it, it may help you to get the results you want.
I have offered this advice / method to many people through many replies and PM's. Every person who has been imaginative enough to give it a fair test has e-mailed me with positive results reported.
This thread; How to make The Braided Connector For Your Welded Loop Spey Line;
contains the formula for my sinking leader system. [scroll to the bottom of thread to find text details]
It is cheap, it can be accomplished using the heads I purchase or by incorporating T11 or T 14 into the design. I use the Beartooth Braided heads because they work and are durable. I am still using braided heads I bought in 1994.
You adjust depth by lengthening or shortening the butt section of the leader. You adjust sink rate with the length of the braided head section. This is not hard to do and it is not hard to cast. The best fly line to use is a weight forward or DT floating type. I keep my line dressed regularly so that it floats high while only my leader sinks.
The difference between having to strip in almost a whole line in order to get the sink tip up and out of the water and using this system is Night & Day. You can use a roll cast to bring the leader and fly to the surface and then pick it up easily from there. There is no 15' of submerged line with leader and fly to get back up in the air for the next cast.
I have been doing this since 1994 - 95, and never use sink tip lines. You use your floating line for fishing as deep as 10' of water depending on leader length.
I only try to help others with what I found out, I don't sell them. What I can tell you is that I haven't been doing this all these years because I think that someday I might catch a fish this way, it's been working ever since I made my first rig.
Hope it helps,