Dressing a modern floating fly line.

[Red Owl]

About once or twice a season I'll clean my line (fresh water) and apply some dressing. A guy told me that's not enough, do it every time you fish, especially on cheap to mid-priced lines. Is that true????

[RDRogers]

Most premium lines like SA and Rio do not require dressing. Just run them through a cleaning pad or cloth after use. If they are really dirty you can soak them in water with a couple of drops of dish detergent. It will loosen any dirt or grime, then run through a cloth. Cheaper lines need to be dressed to stay slick.

[FrankB2]

I use SA's line dressing on the "Dry Tip" of my GPX lines: they sink a bit after an hour, and a light coat has them bobbing like a cork.

[Joni]

First try to stick with line Manufacturers recommendations. As mention on the newer more expensive lines, it is not required to dress them.
I use GLIDE periodically if I feel a line is sluggish. It won't hurt the line.
Just stay away from wd40 or Armoral for dressing.

[Frank Whiton]

Originally Posted by FrankB2

I use SA's line dressing on the "Dry Tip" of my GPX lines: they sink a bit after an hour, and a light coat has them bobbing like a cork.

Hi Frank,

I wonder if you have the tip of your GPX line sealed? If you don't it might keep it floating a bit longer. I am assuming you have a line with no bonded loop from the factory. There are several ways to seal the tip. Some use thin Super Glue. You can also use Goop. My favorite is Pliobond. I like a flexible seal best. Super glue makes the end hard.

My favorite way is to use the fly line its self and form a loop on the end of the line. A loop on the end of the fly line will increase it ability to float.

Frank

[FrankB2]

Hi Frank,
I'm pretty much using all GPX lines now, and they all have the welded loop.
Perhaps I'm being a bit harsh when I say they sink: only the first 18" dips
just below the water after an hour of using a weighted pattern. SA says
their dressing can be applied wet, but I always wait until after I've cleaned
the lines.

I have used CA to seal my 444 and other non-factory-looped lines. In fact,
my connection of preference prior to GPX's loop was Dave Whitlock's CA
leader connection. I never had one fail, and I've yanked some of those
connections pretty hard to get snags out of trees.

[IdFlyFisherman]

Hey Frank I have a question. In the post above you state that you like to form a loop of the fly line itself and glue it to form a loop to attach your leader to. And that it floats better this way. But in an earlier post you stated to Hook 'em Horns to tie a 6" piece of 25-30 lbs. mono to your fly line with a nail knot and then tie a perfection loop in the mono. I know I could do it either way but which is the better or best way? Or is the mono way to be used for a sinking line? Also I just purchased a new fly line and wanted to know what you think about it and if you've ever used it yourself. It's Scientific Anglers Ultra 4. WF-4-F
I've only used a double taper line before, so what kind of difference am I to expect from a weight forward line? Thanks,

Dennis in Idaho

[FrankB2]

Hi Dennis,
The GPX lines have a loop from he factory, and while I was skeptical about
their durability, they've lasted just fine. Prior to using GPX lines, I used a short section of mono that I used to needle nail knot to the line, but then
used Dave Whitlock's CA connection. The CA connection is VERY secure, and
I've put it to the test with flies stuck up in trees ! I don't think there's
much difference between the factory loop, and a section of mono with a
loop. I've seen where some people cut the factory loop off, and then add
a mono section.

[Rip Tide]

Dennis......
The glue is used to seal the end of the line to keep water from wicking up the line core, causing it to sink.
It also coats the knot to help the knot pass better through the guides.

It's not meant for closing the loop... that would not be strong enough

[Joni]

Dennis, I prefer the loop formed right in the fly line. Really is easy to do.
Reason I prefer it, is less knots to get hung up in the tip top.
Doing a nail knot from line to mono, you know have one knot (granted smaller because it is a nail knot) and then another knot forming the loop in the mono.
The smoothest would be to just nail knot or Needle Knot the leader right to the line and then add tippet. That is provided you don't let it get too short and throw the taper out the window.

I prefer the loop in the line also because I DO use tapered mono leaders, furled leaders and straight Fluoro, so I can change as much as I like.

Strength wise...I think that is sixes.