The Jock Scott - Step-by-Step - The Body
As described by T. Pryce-Tannatt in his book: How to Dress Salmon Flies: A Handbook for Amateurs.
This is a challenging pattern and those of you who tie Salmon flies will note that Iím leaving out some of the elements of this classic pattern. Iím leaving them out in the interest of getting this particular pattern tied up in some form of reasonableness and what is left out represents what Iíve tried and failed to achieve in the tie.
So, here we goÖÖ..
1. I used a Partridge Bartleet CS10/1 hook; #1/0 for this pattern, because thereís a lot going on in both the body and the wing. After threading the hook, tie in the flat silver tinsel tag just above the tip of the barb using flattened wraps. [ According to Tom, the tag on a Jock Scott is entirely tinsel; no tinsel/floss combination, as you often see. He also leaves you the choice of using oval or flat tinsel; saying that he prefers flat tinsel, so thatís the way that I went.]
2. Wind the tinsel forward using butt wraps, to a point just above the tip of the hook and tie it off with flattened wraps.
3. Select a Golden Pheasant topping and tie it in right above the hook point; at the point where the tinsel tag ends, using flattened wraps.
4. Select an Indian Crow substitute and mount the feather flat at the point where you tied in the GP topping. Use your pliers or tweezers to put an upward bend in the feather, so that it doesnít press down on the GP topping when you tie it in. [I left some short barbs on the stem and it made it easier to tie in the IC feather and it made it much firmer with the tie-in. You can see the short barbs in the picture. I used scissors to cut them short. Tomís recommendation.]
5. Now, tie in the black ostrich herl butt. Be sure that the barbs are pointed toward the back of the hook; not pointing forward. 4-5 wraps is enough. Tie it off with flattened wraps and trim up the waste ends of the feathers.
6. Next, strip the metal from the end of the medium oval silver tinsel and tie it in using flattened wraps. Bring it right back to the herl butt.
7. Now, advance the thread to the head and tie in the Uni-stretch floss to form the underbody. You can use a variety of materials to form the overall shape of the body, but white Uni-stretch is the best material that Iíve worked with for this purpose.
8. Next, shape the underbody. Itís become very fashionable among Salmon fly tyers to use big, cigar-shaped bodies, but I prefer a more moderate shape. Thin or thick; itís your choice, but you need to have some tapered shape to the body. Burnish if you like, to get a smooth underbody.
9. Next, wind the flattened thread back down the hook to a point about 2/5th of the way from the bend to the eye and tie in the dark yellow floss. Wind the floss down to the butt and back to the tie-in point, using flattened butt wraps. Tie it off with flattened wraps. [Note: when you tie in at the 2/5th point, youíre actually setting yourself up to get a visual effect thatís about 50:50, because the head distorts the overall length of the body once the fly is completed.]
10. Now, wind the oval silver tinsel diagonally up the floss and tie it off at the floss tie-in point.
11. Now, hereís one of the steps that I skipped. At this point, youíre supposed to veil the butt with Toucan breast feather substitutes; both above and below the hook. I tried; with two different subs and I didnít like the looks of the product, because my skills arenít what they need to be to tie this pattern according to its classic recipe. By all means, add the veilings, it will add a lot to the overall look of the fly. Iíll try again next time, but this time it just wasnít going to happen for me.
12. Next, add the second butt. This is black ostrich herl, again, and is tied in the same way as the first butt. [Note: the Jock Scott has whatís called a segmented body and the different segments are often times separated by a butt. Also, if youíre successful with the veilings, then they will leave a hump in the body that needs to be covered; the butt also does this, just as it does for the tail.]
13. Now, tie in all of the components for the forward body. First, strip the metal off of the medium oval silver tinsel and tie it in as you did for the back body, right up against the butt. Second, tie in the medium flat tinsel, silver side up, so that it wraps silver (this is for those of you who use gold/mylar tinsel). Third, wind the flat tinsel up the forward body two wraps and mark the underside of the body with a pen at the point where the second tinsel wrap hits the underside of the body. Tip tie in a black rooster hackle at this point, after youíve folded it. Last, tie in the black floss at the head of the hook. Thereís a lot going on in this forward body, so there are a lot of materials hanging off the hook at this point.
14. Then, use the following steps to form the forward body. First, wrap the black floss back to the butt, being careful not to trap any of the hackle fibers in the process, then forward again, using butt wraps in each case, and tie it off at the tie-in point with flattened wraps. Second, wind the flat silver tinsel up the body and tie it off at the head with flattened wraps. Third, wind the oval silver tinsel up the body; just behind and touching the flat silver tinsel; tie it off at the head with flattened wraps. Finally, wind the black rooster hackle up the body starting where the second tinsel wrap lies, making sure to fold the barbs back as you go. Tie it off at the head with flattened wraps.
15. Next, pull the black hackle barbs diagonally down towards the hook point and pinch them around the hook to keep them in place. Then, tip tie in a Guinea Fowl hackle just in front of the black rooster hackle. Make sure that the smallest barb on the GF feather is the same size as the longest barb on the black rooster hackle. Take 2-3 wraps the tie it off with flattened wraps. Finally, pull the GF hackle diagonally down towards the hook point and press the barbs around the hook to keep them in place. Tie off the white thread and tie on the black thread.
Thatís it for the body.
Iíll try to post the wing either next weekend or before.