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Hollow Fleye
Hollow Fleye
Step by step tutorial: Hollow body construction
Published by peregrines
10-13-2010
Default Hollow Fleye

Hollow Fleye
Hollow Flye Click the image to open in full size.
Front view after shaping under hot water Click the image to open in full size.
Rear view after shaping under hot water. Note hollow construction with just a thin layer of bucktail 360 degrees around shank Click the image to open in full size.
Type of fly saltwater
Originator of pattern if known Bob Popovics
Tied and Submitted by peregrines
Level of tying experience needed to tie this pattern Intermediate, a little more complicated pattern, previous experience tying different types of patterns helpful
Materials listed in order of tie in:
Hook Your choice of saltwater hook, various sizes. Mustad 34007 size 2/0 used here.
Thread Strong thread recommended, Danville’s Flat Waxed Nylon used here
Tail Optional. None on this example, but you can add a bucktail tail, or flatwing style tail.
Body A series of bucktail clumps tied in tips forward 360 degrees around the shank and forced back towards the rewar of the hook with a thread cone.
Flash Optional, can be added at intervals between sparse clumps of bucktail.
Head Thread
Special tying notes Consider this a tying technique rather than a specific pattern. This technique of tying can also be combined with other tying techniques and materials. See step by steps below for basic “hollow fleye“ technique
Target species striped bass,
Fishing notes The construction of this fly results in a light weight pattern with a round cross section and a hollow center. It is an excellent imitation for cigar shaped baitfish with a round cross section like mullet.
Here's a step by step, using chartreuse thread and different colors of bucktail for clarity  
Tie on using a strong thread and work back to end of straight part of shank. On this hook it's almost directly above barb. Chartreuse Danvilles Flat Waxed Nylon used here Click the image to open in full size.
Tie on first bunch of bucktail, 360 degrees around shank, tips pointing forward. Bind down tightly. Trim butts to about 1 /16" long. Leaving the butts a little long helps to give the body some shape. Click the image to open in full size.
Fold bucktail rearward, taking care to keep bucktail evenly distributed around shank. Be careful you don't stick yourself with the hook point. Work thread forward, and build a cone shaped thread dam directly in front of bucktail to force it back. You can vary the angle a bit depending on how many wraps you take back over the front of bucktail, more wraps will give you a sharper angle and ultimately a narrower cross section Click the image to open in full size.
The next series of steps will show one way to work with different colors of bucktail-- if you wanted to have a lighter belly and darker back for example. 
Here we have inverted the hook in the vise and are tying in a clump of red bucktail tips forward for a belly on what will be the underside of the hook Click the image to open in full size.
Next, the hook is again flipped in the vise to ride hook point down, and another bunch of bucktail is tied in, also tips forward, directly above the spot where the the red bucktail was tied in. This purple bucktail will be the upper half and back of the fly After this tie in is complete, trim the butts of the red and purple bucktail to 1 /16" inch or so. Click the image to open in full size.
Again stroke the red and purple bucktail rearward, taking care not to stab yourself on the hook point and keeping the red bucktail on the lower half and the purple on the upper half of the fly. Build another thread dam to force the bucktail rearward. Once you've made the thread dam, you can add in a few strands of Flashabou or Krystal Flash for a little bling as I've done here At this point tie in another bunch of bucktail, tips forward and leave the butt's 1/16" long. I've used a sparse bunch of black for the final bunch Click the image to open in full size.
The last tying step is forcing the last layer of bucktail rearward with another thread dam. Whip and tie off. At this point the fly will look pretty wild Click the image to open in full size.
Hold under hot water to shape Click the image to open in full size.
Drying to shape after hot water-- the long thin tail is actually flashabou Click the image to open in full size.

Ordinarily on a fly like this I'd use more clumps with sparser amounts of bucktail to create a smoother profile with less gaps in the profile, but wanted to keep things less confusing for the tutorial. Feel free to experiment, here are a couple in different made up color palettes: "bruise" (purple, blue, black and red), "lemon lime" ( chartreuse, olive, green and yellow) and "mullet" (white tan gray and light blue)

Click the image to open in full size.

Again think of this as a tying technique you can incorporate into your tying on a variety of patterns as in the "Sore Thumb" posted in this forum. It's a flatwing streamer with a spun deerhair head that uses a "hollow" collar to add shape to the fly without adding bulk.
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