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peregrines 10-15-2010 11:16 AM

Top of fly
Bottom of fly (on more complicated version)
Type of fly Saltwater crab
Originator of pattern if known George Anderson owner of Yellowstone Angler in Livingston, Montana
Tied and Submitted by peregrines
Disclaimer :) There are simpler crab patterns out there that are much easier to tie, and arguably just as or more effective such as the Del Brown Permit fly (also known as the Merkin) and I’ll post up one in a day or two. But this is a fun fly to tie if you’re not in a hurry, and can be tied in batches to be more productive in terms of "time per fly".
Level of tying experience needed to tie this pattern Intermediate, a little more complicated pattern, previous experience tying different types of patterns helpful The most complicated part (other than trying to find white or cream colored plasti-dip, ugh), is tying the spun deer hair body, and then trimming it to shape. Other than that it's pretty straightforward, just a lot of steps.
Materials listed in order of tie in: Note there are 2 ways to tie this pattern- one is a bit more complicated with a “belly plate”, and the other version without it, is easier. I’ll list the material for the complicated version first, and explain where the the simple version differs in parentheses.
Hook Saltwater standard shank 6 to 1/0. For bonefish generally size 4-6, for permit 2-1/0. Mustad 34007 size 1 here. After tying in dumbbell eyes and tail, place hook in vise upside down. The rest of the fly is tied on an inverted hook so it rides hook point up.
Thread A strong thread that can withstand thread torque used to spin deer (or antelope) hair. Tan Danville’s Monocord used here but Danville’s Flat Waxed nylon is good too.
Dumbell Eyes For bonefish sizes (on 4-6 hooks) use smallest lead or nontoxic dumbbell (1/100 oz or equivalent) directly behind eye. For permit use heavier dumbbells on size 2 - 1/0 hooks.
Tail Two hackle tips ginger, cree etc tied in flared with 3-4 short strands of Flashabou or Krystal Flash. After tying the tail in, flip hook in vise so it is now inverted.
Body Deer or antelope hair spun onto hook shank in several clumps. It will be trimmed to a pancake shape after the fly is tied off. Cream/light tan, greenish olive and brown versions are all used.
Eyes Burnt mono, colored with a black permanent marker (Sharpie used here). These will be superglued to the bottom of the fly after it has been tied off and trimmed. (They are tied to the shank in the simplified version between clumps of deer hair as the body is constructed.)
Legs 3 pairs of rubber bands, knotted and superglued to bottom of shank after the fly is tied off and trimmed. The legs have been covered with rubber cement after the fly was completed. (Tied in to shank on simplified version)
Belly Plate Small bunch of lead or nontoxic putty pounded flat into pancake shape. This is superglued to the underside of the trimmed body of the crab. Coat with white or cream colored Plasti Dip (Omitted on the simplified version)
Head Thread.
Blotches on Legs and Shellback Optional, you can dot the top of the deerhair crab shell and rubber band legs with a brown or olive colored permanent marker.
Special tying notes The simplified version doesn’t have the lead putty, Plasti-Dip belly plate, and instead of supergluing the eyes and legs underneath the belly and layers of putty and Plasti-Dip, they are tied into the shank. If you do tie up the more complicated version, tie up a bunch and do the bellies all at once.
Target species Permit, bonefish, redfish, striped bass and anything else that eats crabs
Fishing notes Lead fish 2-3 feet and let it settle to the bottom, if no take on the way down, give it a couple of twitches

jpbfly 10-16-2010 02:21 PM

Re: McCrab
Amazing tying Mark:thumbsup:

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