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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2010, 09:47 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

Wow what a great thread. I will subscribe.
Wish I had the time an money to do this. But I am working on getting my house ready to rent since I am going in the army in june.

I even browsed Hook an hackle web site an looke at there kits.

They have one kit that has every thing an I mean everything,
Blank, real, seat, guides, cork, tip top, thread, epoxy, an even a vid.
An the kit was still only 135 or so for a 5wt.

Cant wait to see some pics.
good luck all
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:20 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

I know this is gonna sound kinda dumb, but, I have a SA mastery series spey multi tip in a WF 6 F/S. My intent on this rod build is to build a rod for this line. the line itself was originally $150, but I got it for $30 brand new on clearance from Cabelas. I also already have a reel either a Okuma Magnitude or a Pflueger (Shakespeare Omni), so, this gives me $120 "free money" to build the rod. Now the question is do I build a 6 wt - ideally a 10 foot rod, or do I build a 7/8 as I have heard these lines are actually "heavier" then the marked 6 wt. And, can you get a 10 foot 6 weight blank? or do I need to build a spey rod?

Best info I can find says the head weight is 420 grains at 55 feet (49 foot head) or 27.2 grams, and depending on which head you use it ranges from 5 to 11 grams per 15 foot tip. that is like a 13 weight line if it is correct I think? Though we usually measure fly lines at 30 feet not 50.

thanks for any advice.

d
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:16 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

[QUOTE=webrx;79757]I know this is gonna sound kinda dumb, but, I have a SA mastery series spey multi tip in a WF 6 F/S. My intent on this rod build is to build a rod for this line. the line itself was originally $150, but I got it for $30 brand new on clearance from Cabelas. I also already have a reel either a Okuma Magnitude or a Pflueger (Shakespeare Omni), so, this gives me $120 "free money" to build the rod. Now the question is do I build a 6 wt - ideally a 10 foot rod, or do I build a 7/8 as I have heard these lines are actually "heavier" then the marked 6 wt. And, can you get a 10 foot 6 weight blank? or do I need to build a spey rod?

Best info I can find says the head weight is 420 grains at 55 feet (49 foot head) or 27.2 grams, and depending on which head you use it ranges from 5 to 11 grams per 15 foot tip. that is like a 13 weight line if it is correct I think? Though we usually measure fly lines at 30 feet not 50.

thanks for any advice.

d[/QUOTE\
That's a first. First time I've heard someone want a certain rod because they already have the line. Nothing wrong with that I guess....
Check this out. It might be what you're looking for in a spey rod kit.
Rainshadow Spey Rod building blank kit! 12 1/2 ft 6 wt - eBay (item 220537049515 end time Feb-06-10 07:29:37 PST)
Item 220537049515

If you were to put on a regular line for a 6w spey, you'd have to go up to a 10 or 11 maybe 12 weight line. Look at the diameter of your spey line. You could probably use that line on a 12 single handed rod. I know a 6w spey is not the same as a 6w single handed rod.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:54 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

Well to be honest, I bought the line because it was such a deal and I was gonna put it on my 6/7 fiberglass rod for fishing pyramid lake, but after researching it seems, like you have said, that this line my be too heavy for a 7 wt fiberglass rod. When this build a rod came up, I thought maybe I need to build a 10 foot 9 wt (didnt realize we were talking 10 or 12) rod to fish pyramid. Now I wonder if I should build something heavier and longer based on this research (and the info you have provided). So, once again, I am lost in the intricacies of this sport.....

d
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:07 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

Quote:
Originally Posted by webrx View Post
Well to be honest, I bought the line because it was such a deal and I was gonna put it on my 6/7 fiberglass rod for fishing pyramid lake, but after researching it seems, like you have said, that this line my be too heavy for a 7 wt fiberglass rod. When this build a rod came up, I thought maybe I need to build a 10 foot 9 wt (didnt realize we were talking 10 or 12) rod to fish pyramid. Now I wonder if I should build something heavier and longer based on this research (and the info you have provided). So, once again, I am lost in the intricacies of this sport.....

d
If you have a 6/7 weight glass rod (I'm going to assume it's a Fenwick Ferrulite) this line would definitely not work. I have a Hardy Fibalite 8w that would struggle to chuck that line.
You might want to sell the line and make a "normal" rod. It's just something to think about. I don't think a spey type rod would be good on a lake, although it could be done (not by me). You really need moving water to load it up.
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:37 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

Would you be willing to build a spey rod? I doubt $120 would get you there. But... Spey rods have a much more restrictive grain window (the min. and max weight the head can be and still work) than a single hand rod. If you would like me to research what blanks will work with that line and not break your piggy bank, just give me the green light and I'll start looking.
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:49 AM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

I bought a kit from the vendor MOJO mentioned, I was very satisfyed with what I got...I had the kit ordered when this thread was started; but can always use great advice, it's been awhile since my last rod build.

I got a switch rod, 10'8" 6wt...The only thing not included with my kit was a hook keeper, thread and epoxy.

Dan
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Old 01-26-2010, 09:54 AM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

I'm in the process of building up a truly weird rod, using only very basic tools. (grill rotis motor for turning, cardboard box cradle, cantilevered "vise" for handle gluing) Its a 10' 4/5wt blank I got for like $15 via ebay. The handle kit is for a light switch rod, but I sanded the foregrip down to a very long half wells shape. So far I've got the spline marked, guide positions taped, done some epoxy over thread tests, and glued on the handle. I'll keep tabs on this thread and chime in with help where I can, as a almost-beginner. (Built one rod years ago at a shop)

First tip: don't do like I did when you're epoxying the reel seat into the recess of the handle and fill up the forward portion where the reel foot goes. I was scrambling to find something small enough to dip down in there to get it out before it set up. (still only got it mostly out, so the first reel mounting may be interesting)

2nd tip: denatured alcohol may be ideal, but WD40 sprayed on a paper towel works quite well to wipe errant epoxy off of an aluminum reel seat.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 01:38 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

Cliff,
So as not to get a head of the learning that will be going on shortly ... I'll direct this to you. As in fly tying, and judging materials (quantities of), the general rule is to take out what you think you'll need, then put about half of it back!!! Same goes for epoxy. Only put about half of what you think you'll need on the blank and you'll have far less to remove when you're done!! Rubbing alcohol works great in cleaning up, too!
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:02 PM
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Default Re: Let's Build a Rod Together

Seconds on what your dear Auntie said. I don't know how others do it, and I guess it all depends on the blank. Working with a lot of glass blanks over the past years, I don't need to build up an large arbor. (the I.D. of reel seats usually don't match the O.D. of the blank. So you need something to 'fill' in the gap. Usually masking tape or graphite arbors) Fiberglass blanks have larger butts than graphite blanks. I've used masking tape and I've used and like cotton string the best. Saturated it and it ain't going anywhere. I put the epoxy on the first inch or so of the blank and then slowly twist the seat onto the blank. If you need a little more epoxy, (I use mini popsicle sticks) slather a little more on. A little goes a long way. Right before you get to the grip you can scrape off the excess. If you have a hooded grip, you can put a little epoxy inside it when you first put your seat on.
On graphite rods where your butt section is smaller, build up a masking tape arbor. You want a little play in it when you put your seat on so the epoxy has something to adhere to.
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