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Old 03-18-2012, 06:04 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

I have been a little slow at getting things posted and done here. Have a lot going on right now, but here's where I'm at right now;

As I said I got the seat and the grips on. I started with the rear grip first. I turned it on a 1/4" mandrel. The butt of the blank was exactly 11/16ths of an inch in diameter. For the length of the rear grip it was almost without taper. My plan was to drill the entire length of the grip to 11/16ths with a pilot bit. They don't make an 11/16ths pilot bit so I machined a piece to turn any paddle bit into a pilot bit. I used hot melt glue to put it on the bit. That way I can melt it off and use it on any paddle bit. You just have to remember not to let the bit get so hot it melts the glue. I drilled the grip out and stopped at 3/8ths of an inch from going through. That way I can plug the 1/4 inch hole with a matching plug and a little sandpaper and viola! the hole is gone.
Click the image to open in full size.

The amount of taper on the blank where the top of it ends was about two turns of masking tape, but I hate using masking tape. I use Pro Mesh, self-adhesive glass (fiberglass) mesh patch/joint tape. When I apply the glue, 1 hour rod builders epoxy, I make more than you think you will need and make sure that there are no voids left to create problems some day down the road. I clean the grip out of any left over dust, then lightly sand the blank and clean it with alcohol. I mix the epoxy so that there is no doubt it is fully mixed and them mix it some more. If you have good clean surfaces, mix the epoxy 1:1 really well, you will not have problems. I have had some people say they like to mix extra hardner into it thinking it will be stronger. They are wrong wrong wrong. Epoxy is a chemical bond and anything you get off of 1:1 will end up as unbonded weak spot.

Once I had the bottom grip on and the excess glue cleaned off with alcohol, I let it set up and then got ready to put the seat on. I try and use graphite arbors to make up the difference in the outside diameter of the blank, and the inside diameter of the reel seat. I clean the heck out of the inside of the seat also. There can be any number of bad things left from manufacturing. Mold break, oil, dust, dirt and who knows what. Just because it's brand new does not mean it's clean enough to glue on. Back to the arbor thing. I drifted for a second. In the case of my seat, the inside diameter and the blank were not very far apart. Graphite is a poor option for that.
Click the image to open in full size.

I could have used masking tape, and that's not a horrible idea. If you do it, start the first arbor at the end towards the butt, about 3/8's to 1/2 inch from where the end of the seat will be. Make them in order heading toward the tip where they are spaced about the same as the gap you left at the butt end. When you get to the tip end arbor, put it so it will be at least 1/4 inch inside the end of the seat. When you glue it up make sure you cover the tape and fill the spaces between the arbors. I shove it on slowly over paper or a paper plate I mix the epoxy on. I use a lot more than needed to make sure there are no gaps. I hate gaps. I did the same thing here but used the fiber glass Pro Mesh. I did not photograph that before I shoved it on however. I did take a photo of another rod I'm doing at the same time. My R.L. Winston 10' 7 wt. I'm making for Smallies and my float tube. Yipee!
Click the image to open in full size.

When I turned the top grip I had made all the holes in the cork and the end pieces, which I turned seperate, to 3/8ths of an inch. I did that so I could turn it on a 3/8ths inch mandrel so it would be stiffer and I could use an actual lathe. The top grip is 14 1/2" long so it makes using a pilot bit a bit tough. They don't make a 3/8" pilot bit, or one 14 1/2" long either. Go back to the first photo and look at the 3/8ths inch short metal rod with a notch throug the end. That's my converter I machined. I can take any pilot bit and convert it to a 3/8ths inch pilot with it. It's on the bit in this photo. With the bit extender I drilled the top grip out to just under the diameter of the blank at the top of the grip.
Click the image to open in full size.
I then used a cork reamer to make the hole in the grip match the taper of the blank. If you start getting close and you have a tight spot, you can find where it is by putting a grease pencil line down the blank, slide the grip on till it hits the tight spot, rotate the grip and the pull it back off. It will erase the line where it's tight. Go in and work the spot out with a rat tail file. I then glued on the grip and again, made more and used more epoxy than you really need. Clean everything up with alcohol.

Click the image to open in full size.
This is it glued up and next to the new reel for it. I got the best cork I could get my hands on, and unfortunately, it's not as good as some I have had in the past. I hate using fill and I hate making it even more. I discovered the best fill ever. Elmer's Carpenter Golden Oak wood filler. It matches cork better than cork. Best stuff ever. I filled all the holes and sanded the grip with 320 grit paper and it made a 300% improvement over what is in the photo above. I'm going to seal the whole handle with U40 Cork Sealer.
Click the image to open in full size.
I had mentioned I was leaning towards a green/black classic twist for thread. I took the blank outside in the sunlight and it is a deep blue which you can see in indoor light. But in sunlight it turns a deep green where the sun reflects. It's the neatest thing I have seen a blank do in quite a while. That clinched it for me and the green was it. I decided to do a deep blue metallic trim. I don't like going overly thick on the trim with fly rods. So left them pretty thin. Three turns on the end and two in the center of the wraps on the first stripper guide. I also decided to use the Pac Bay N style stripper guides becase the look like big ringed snake guides. They also come in the same TiCH that I got the snake guides in and they will all match the Titanium seat.
Click the image to open in full size.
I have all the guides on so now I can start doing the weave. Before I can figure out where the weave needs to be centered though, I have to work out what the feather inlay is going to be. When I have the length of the feather inlay figured out I will know where the center of the weave will go. I am thinking that the base feather is going to be this big two eyed Palawan Peacock Pheasant feather in this next photo.
Click the image to open in full size.
I had some Impeyan Monal feathers ordered but when I got them was so ticked off it was not funny. I hate buying things and what you get is not what was pictured. It put a serious dent in my inlay plans so I am refiguring. The next post will be the planned inlay and the start of the weave. I will also post how to do the thin trim bands and inlays. I still have them to do in front of the grip. and the weave and inlay area.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:43 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

Nice grip Dan! The wraps are gonna be real pretty too.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:57 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

yep, pretty sweet work dan. nice job
ever catch any fish?
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:28 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardyreels View Post
The wraps are gonna be real pretty too.
Actually, Ard suggested a dark green. He said it was what they did on a Thomas and Thomas rod posted someplace. I looked at it and liked it. I did one wrap to see if I liked it and I did. Then I got the blank out in the sun and realized why T&T likes it to.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:37 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

I think T&T used deep scarlet for the trim............... I'm headed to bed, be in touch,

Ard
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:30 AM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

Dan, You are quite the artist. Beautiful work. Look forward to seeing the finished product.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:55 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

OK, before I finished the rod last winter I ended up with a lot of stuff going wrong all at once and finishing this rod got put on the back burner. I have decided to get it done and finish this thread. As I had said before I am going to do a weave of the Thomas & Thomas Logo on the bottom in front of the top grip, and a feather inlay on the top.

When I do a weave there are not a lot of tools needed. A candle to melt the ends of the threads going in the weave. They get a lot of use in the course of doing it, so by melting a ball onto the end it prevents them from becoming frayed which is a pain. A pair of tweezers. I prefer the kind where the tip is bent at almost a 90* angle. I take a grinder or file and reduce the end to a thin point, but beware of making them sharp. It is important to dull them if you get them sharp so as not to cut your threads. A pair of scissors and an X-acto knife. A good magnifying glass would not hurt either.
Click the image to open in full size.

You need masking tape for arbors to hold and work the threads used in the weave. The best tape I have found so far is Scotch 3M 233+ Green masking tape. You can use any masking tape that has a good grip to build up your arbors, but use the Green for the sticky side up which I will shortly explain.

Click the image to open in full size.

Step number one of actually starting to put the thread on the rod. Build up an arbor of masking tape about 3/16ths of an inch in front of the grip, using 3/4" masking tape about 1/16" thick or a bit better, and cut it off on the side opposite the weave's location. Leave a tag loose, and then go sticky side to sticky side with the green tape and do a couple tuns so the sticky side is up, and then cut it off so the seam is on the side away from where the weave will go. Repeat the process with about 10" between them but this time use 2" version of the masking tapes. Then with a 1/2" gap farther up the rod, repeat the process again with the 3/4" tapes.

Once the arbors are done, determine the exact centerline of the blank and make a small mark on the 3/4" arbor in front of the grip, and another small one in the rear of the 2" arbor.

Now if you read the part where I did the pattern you saw that in this one, the center thread is #38. That is going to be the first thread you lay down. If this thread was a number being a multiple of five, you would go past the end of the far 3/4" arbor, but in this case it isn't so you go to well into the gap between the 2" arbor and the far 3/4" arbor. Remember to melt the ends before putting them on. Just the end away from the grip. It's the only one that gets a lot of abuse.
Click the image to open in full size.
This is threads 38, 39 and 40.

The reason for this is, in this pattern there will be 76 threads. In order to make it possible to reliably find a specific thread we need a system where we can find them Start by laying down the center thread and work out both ways. Make every 5th thread in the pattern long and have it end past the far 3/4" arbor. Leave a small gap between every group of 10 threads. This makes finding the right threads easy. When finished it should look like this:
Click the image to open in full size.
Remember, the threads next to the grip are packed together tight, no spaces. Once all of them are on, tape the threads in place in front of the grip as they never move during the weave.
I suggest making a ballpoint pen mark on the tape arbor between each group of ten threads on the 2" arbor. It is important to keep those threads in the same place as you work this so you don't start to pull und distort your weave to one side.

The next step I did in this one was to determine the length of the weave, which being round is easy, it is the same length as the 76 threads are together wide. I then determined how long the feather inlay is going to be on the other side of the rod is.

This gave me a length I needed to make the base wrap before starting the weave. I then start the base thread in front of the tape arbor by the grip and when I get to where the weave starts, I stop doing turns. I then take the 4" wide green tape from the photo shown above and go sticky side up around the grip long enough to catch the entire threads when fliped to the left. Just stick the tape to itself and make it tight enough over the contours of the grip to hold it in place when the threads are being worked.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now if you remember from the part where I showed the pattern being made, you see the first step is 35,41. The , means everything from 35 to 41. So you take those threads and flip them to the left sticking them to the tape on the grip. Turn the rod one turn. Mark the step off on the list. Mark it like it was the law. It is easy to get confused doing this, and this eliminates one place that you can have it happen. When we get to step 4, it is marked like this; 24,37.40,53 . This means all the threads from 24 to 37 get flipped to the left, 38 and 39 stay to the right and all the threads from 40 to 53 get flipped to the left. The effect this has is, all the threads to the left end up over the base wrap, and all the threads to the right get buried under it.

When I am doing weaves it is important to have the rod so when you stop turning it, it will stay where you stop it without having to hold on to it. I use a piece of 1" web strap two rubber bands. It is held over the rod by screws in the rods stand like this:
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is a good trick, if you have to walk away for a bit, take a thread and wrap around the threads on the arbors and the tape on the grip so threads do not come lose and cause you confusion. It can be confusing enough. Another trick, if you start to become confused when going back and forth with a lot of threads. Stop and put them all to the right, and start fresh. Mistakes in this can mess up a pattern and it is pretty impossible to fix them without cutting it all off and starting over.

As you can see it can be a tad confusing. There is a lot going on at this point in the pattern.
Click the image to open in full size.

Once you get past the weave about a 1/4", tighten the weave. I like to start at the center and work out both ways. Pull on the threads individually pulling them tight and towards the center. Get them tight but don't break them. Use something to push threads to the center if you get a gap and it stays after being pulled tight. Be careful if you used metallic thread so you don't bust the mylar.
Click the image to open in full size.

Once the weave is tight, finish the base wrap. In this case I wanted interchanged thin color bands All I did to achieve this in this end was to add a long thread of the Green/Black classic twist I did the guides with about 1/8" from where it starts by trapping it under the wrap. I then stop turning the rod when I get to where the band starts and by hand take the thread back and over the top of the thread where it is going onto the blank. I made 5 turns here and then trapped the green thread under the grey thread to hold it in place.

Next step is to remove the tape arbor next to the grip, the tape from the grip and trim the weave threads off. I trim them off at an angle so I am trapping them down as I wrap over them cleanly.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I then fray the ends with my thumbnail so it will not hump the thread going off the ends.

Click the image to open in full size.

I then wrap the thread matching the guides over the exposed ends. I did a metallic trim band in it the same way I did the green band at the end of the base wrap.

When I got to the end, I added two pull loops and a metallic blue thread for the end trim band to the base wrap when I started the green band. It looks like this;

Click the image to open in full size.

I used one pull thread to secure the end of the thread, then turned the metallic trim on, in this case 4 turns and then used the second pull thread to secure it. I made all of this a length to match what is required to fill in the end towards the grip. Here is the finished thread work.

Click the image to open in full size.

The next step is the feather inlay. Saving it for the next post. The base feather in it is Impeyan Monal which I had a heck of a hard time getting a good one.
Click the image to open in full size.

These are really beautiful birds.


Click the image to open in full size.

One last note, it is a tad hard to see the weave in detail in these photos. I will post a better close uo after I finish the rod.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:59 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

I was wondering when you were going to get around to finishing this rod. Nice job on the weave!
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:21 PM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

Yah, this got a pretty good delay. On the bright side, it gave me the time to get the Impeyan Monal feather I wanted. I should have it done and ready to fish in a couple more days. To bad you could drive a sherman tank on the river here. I had -32 this morning when I got up. It has warmed way up though. I'm right about zero. The lying weatherman said it was only supposed to get down to -12. Missed that one by a bit huh?
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:17 AM
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Default Re: My winter spey rod project.

I got the feather inlay on. Because of the nature of these feathers I used my 'alternate' way of doing it and it needs three hands for photos of doing it. I can describe it though.

Put a coat of color preserver on the thread and wait a full two hours before the next step. Mark the centerline on a piece of masking tape at the end of where the inlay will go.

For feathers with a broader than needed profile that 'thin' down well, like Barred Wood Duck Flank, dip the entire feather in color preserver holding it with tweezers by the stem at the base. Lcae the stem end on the center and trap down the stem end in place with the tweezers. Then take your index finger and lightly brush the feather into place going from the stem to the tip. Do not let the stem end slip or you will bunch and likely destroy the feather. If it does slip, STOP immediately and slide it back in place by the stem and it will sometimes save it. Brush the excess color preserver off being careful not to disturb the feather. Wait at least one hour before applying a second feather.

For feathers that do not slim down well, like the Grey Peacock Pheasant I used as the second feather in this inlay, instead of the method above, this is the alternate method. Take a piece of clear plastic wrap, about four inches or a bit longer off the roll and place on a close and clean spot. Take a brush and put color preserver in a liberal amount where the feather will go. Take the feather by the stem, and very carefully drop the feather in place so just the centerline of the feather is touching the rod. Do not slide it at all if you miss. In fact most of the time if you try and adjust it, you will wreck the feather. If you don't have steady hands, have a spare feather standing by, because this is pretty much a one shot deal. Once the feather has been dropped into it's place, take the plastic wrap and holding it between your hands. hold it out flat parallel to the rod. Come down on the feather in a straight down motion so the plastic contacts the feather along the centerline that is in contact with the rod. Pull down lightly till your hands meet under the rod. Hold it steady in place till you force color preserver up through the feather. Once it has been 'soaked' (10 seconds or so) let go of the plastic wrap. Gently and slowly peel it off from the stem to the tip. Wipe very carefully away any excess color preserver, of which by the nature of the way this is done, none of it will be on the Feather. do not try and adjust in any significant way the feather. This will keep feather with features like the round 'eye' i this example from being slimmed down into an oval which is what would happen if you used the traditional method as stated in the first example. Again, wait at least an hour before adding a second feather. You can mix the methods.

The feathers in the way I just put them on the rod.

Click the image to open in full size.

An inlay that has the first (traditional) method used in doing a feather inlay.

Click the image to open in full size.

An inlay done using the alternate method. Note how the 'eye' in the feather remained round. This is not possible to achieve with the traditional way of doing this.
Click the image to open in full size.

A second rod that used four feathers. The first three are the alternate method.

Click the image to open in full size.

The second and third are not visible from this angle because the go down on the side of the blank. It's the bottom rod in this photo.
Click the image to open in full size.

After waiting two hours for the last feather in an inlay to dry, place a final coat of color preserver over everything. The last thing is to put the finish on and go fish.

Here is a weave done with multiple colors. Sometime I should do a step by step for that as well. This was my favorite all time 'Copywrite Violation' rod. (Keep it a secret)

Click the image to open in full size.

I will turn the rod tomorrow and then photograph it.
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