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Old 12-31-2012, 06:35 PM
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Default Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

I just built my first rod and there are some things I wish I had done better in the wrapping and finishing. I don't want to buy a new blank for practicing, so I was wondering if anyone had some broken blank/rod pieces that they were going to jettison. I would be happy to pay for shipping for a few so I can do some practicing before I start another rod.

Thanks,
Lee
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:49 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

The thing about wrapping a rod is that you can always do it over, especially before you apply the finish but even afterwards. ...I've never understood when people recommend the need to practice on a wooden dowel...
I've saved plenty of busted parts if you need them., Graphite, glass and cane
No problem if you need someting
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:59 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

Rip Tide,
I know I could do it over, but it's not bad enough that I want to chance damaging the blank (since the epoxy has already been applied). The biggest issue is that I added a decal (clear address label), but no matter how much I tried I couldn't get a completely smooth (flat) epoxy coat (it has high and low spots). I wanted to try some different methods in applying the epoxy to get it to come out flat but not be too built up. I'll send you an IM.

Thanks,
Lee
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:14 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

Lee,
One thing you may want to give a go to, when you're "practicing" for your next build .... after you have a very thin layer of epoxy over the decal, or the threads, or your signature line ... you get the idea ... give a light, warm, NOT HOT, blow over with a hair dryer. It will smooth out the highs and lows, as well as remove any bubbles you may have.
Em

While I'm here, too ... if you find you need to remove any epoxy, after it's dried, rather than scrape it with a blade of some sorts, hit it with the hair dryer, and scrape the epoxy off with your thumb nail.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:53 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

Exactly what she said. Now a couple of questions. What are you using for finish? Are you using color preserver and what kind if so? What did you not like about the finsh job you just did?

Actually describe in detail everything you think is wrong and post a photo. We will be able to ID the problems better and tell you how to correct them.

Here's a couple of finish tips. I don't use a one coat finish ever. They just don't work as well. I use Flex Coat lite build and do two coats. After the first coat has set up I look for thread end fuzz I may have missed or bubbles that pop up. If I find any I chop off the top of the fuzz level with an X-Acto knife. Bubbles I take the point and turn into a cone shaped divot. When I do the second coat all of this will vanish. I do the second coat so thin it is almost impossible for a bubble to survive so this coat is always perfect at least to the naked eye.

If you are using color preserver, and I almost always do, I do two coats there also. I do the first coat really heavy and when it has soaked in a bit wipe the excess off with my finger. Keep it off the blank. The second coat should be thin and don't leave bubbles in that either.

There is no such thing as a mistake in thread till you put finish on it. If you are not 100% happy with a wrap, remove it and do it over again. That way you don't like it for two minutes. If you put finish over it you don't like it forever. Make sure you don't cross threads, leave gaps, etc. You can make most wraps better by burnishing them. I use the loop on my scissors to do it. Works pretty well.

Now for the decal. Do not ever touch the sticky side of a decal with your finger. EVER. Peel the paper back part way and put the exposed end down and remove the rest of the paper. If you fold the paper back you can line up trhe decal without it sicking. Push down on the exposed end. Then peel the paper back and it will be where you want without ever touching the sticky side.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:04 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

Lee,

While practicing applying finish if still getting too much build up on the thread, try letting the finish set for a few minutes followed by carefully removing with Acetone. The idea is to remove the excess while allowing enough finish to remain in the thread to seal it, while not disturbing the wrap.
The second coat should be a thin coat to cover the thread leaving a flat, smooth finish. After awhile you will get the feel of applying the first coat and won't have to remove part of it. This worked for me during my learning period, consider it nothing more than a suggestion. You won't go wrong following the advice of Dan or Em. Good luck & enjoy the building experience.

Paul
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:16 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

Appreciate the suggestions. I used an alcohol lamp to remove any bubbles and thin the finish, so I'm cool with that.

The first issue is that because the length of the decal I was not able to get it completely level from one end to another. While the finish is smooth and clear, you can see it is uneven:

Click the image to open in full size.

The second issue is that some of the wraps have dark spots, even though I double coated the threads with CP:

Click the image to open in full size.

My other issues with too much epoxy or threads not being exactly perfect will come with practice.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:01 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

The problem on the wraps seem to be a lack of getting the color preserver into the thread. The finish made it into the thread in the dark spots and made it more transparent. What brand of color preserver and how well were you getting it covered?

That decal (I love the Navy theme. ) seems to be a finish build up more than a level decal problem. Is this a thick one coat finish?
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:34 PM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

I've been there with the blotches. Here are two things I do with color preserver (CP) that have helped me, both on the first coat:
1. The very first place I put color preserver is on the thread at the bottom of the guide foot. I let it soak in and work my way up the guide foot with a good bit of CP letting it soak in as I go up. I saw someone do this with varnish on silk wraps saying by starting at the foot and going up it helped force air out.

2. I put a drop of CP on the blank on either side of the the guide foot as it emerges from the wrap. This will be in front of the opening created as the guide rises from the blank. Give it a bit (go do the above process on the next guide and come back or whatever) and often times the CP will have been sucked up in between the guide foot and blank, add another drop. When no more is sucked up, use a scrap of clean paper towel to absorb the extra CP on the blank.

Pardon the low-tech image, but this might help give you a visual.

Click the image to open in full size.

I always do at least two coats of CP and be sure to get a good bit on so the wraps are fully soaked each time. Don't stress too much, a fun thing about rod building is that you'll always be learning how to make the next one better.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:38 AM
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Default Re: Looking for Broken Rod Blanks/Pieces

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diver Dan View Post
The problem on the wraps seem to be a lack of getting the color preserver into the thread. The finish made it into the thread in the dark spots and made it more transparent. What brand of color preserver and how well were you getting it covered?
I used Flexcoat CP and applied 2 coats. Next time I'll make sure I let it soak in better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diver Dan View Post
That decal (I love the Navy theme. ) seems to be a finish build up more than a level decal problem. Is this a thick one coat finish?
I wanted to incorporate something into the rod that said "me" so what else would an old retired Navy Chief use . I used Threadmaster Rod Finish Regular Formula. I ended up doing 2 coats because the fist coat was less flat than what I have above (and there were some blemishes I needed to correct).


Quote:
Originally Posted by williamhj
1. The very first place I put color preserver is on the thread at the bottom of the guide foot. I let it soak in and work my way up the guide foot with a good bit of CP letting it soak in as I go up. I saw someone do this with varnish on silk wraps saying by starting at the foot and going up it helped force air out.

2. I put a drop of CP on the blank on either side of the the guide foot as it emerges from the wrap. This will be in front of the opening created as the guide rises from the blank. Give it a bit (go do the above process on the next guide and come back or whatever) and often times the CP will have been sucked up in between the guide foot and blank, add another drop. When no more is sucked up, use a scrap of clean paper towel to absorb the extra CP on the blank.
Thanks for the tip. I'll give this a shot on my next build. BTW, how do you keep the finish off the rod blank underneath the snake guide? I ended up putting finish from one end to the other.
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