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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2013, 02:29 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Post up some pictures when you start rebuilding it!!!

I've always debated on whether to strip down a couple old rods I have. Eventually one day I'll do it.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:11 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_nguyen View Post
Post up some pictures when you start rebuilding it!!!

I've always debated on whether to strip down a couple old rods I have. Eventually one day I'll do it.
DO IT!

Did some basic web research, and they are taking very good care of me here - about the only thing that hasn't been offered to me is to hold my hand while I am trying this!

I went from hesitant to feeling pretty confident pretty quickly. When the reel seat popped off, I was convinced that this is a very worth while abd do-able thing.

---------- Post added at 06:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:09 PM ----------

Rip Tide,

Thanks again. That looks just about perfect.

I think I am looking for Lewis & Clarke looking for something I remember out of my childhood - Gudebrod Classic Twist Threads.

Orange/black should tie in well with the black hardware and the brown rod finish with amber-ish highlights in the sun.

You mentioned getting multiple tiptops before. I listened... plan is to get the one I think I need and the next 2 sizes up and next two sizes down. I/m pretty sure I will be using them at some point.
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Last edited by random user; 04-19-2013 at 07:10 PM. Reason: cause I is me
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:14 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Is this going to work for a 8'6" 5-weight?
(replacing seat, damaged lowest cork ring, guides, hook keeper and tiptop)

PB UL Reel Seat Black-Hook & Hackle

Black 8 1/2 Guide Set-Hook & Hackle

Hookkeeper Black / U - Shaped-Hook & Hackle

Hook & Hackle Premium Black Finished-Hook & Hackle from 6.5 to 4.0.

Fish Hawk Silk 3/0 #215 Gold (nonmetallic)-Hook & Hackle
and
Fish Hawk Silk 3/0 #223 Brown-Hook & Hackle
Want to order from one place since I hate paying shipping.

Flex Coat 50/50 Mix / High Build Polymer Rod Wrap Finish-Hook & Hackle

Flex Coat Epoxy Rod Builders Glue-Hook & Hackle

Flex Coat Color Preserver-Hook & Hackle

Cork Rings / AAA / Bleached-Hook & Hackle Will need to replace at least the bottom ring.

Thanks much.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:49 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

What kind of rod is it ?.... that would cut back on the number of tip-tops that you need to consider. I think that you can count on it being around a 5 or a 5.5, but it won't be a 4 or a 6.5.
Also, silk thread is a good investment for a cane rod but really unnecessary for graphite or glass and a waste if your using that high- build finish
You're better off with nylon.
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:58 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Not sure what kind of rod it is, other than old and nothing special. Phone number on the rod sack means I was using it prior to '94. I think I remember having a Pflueger or a Fennwick back then, but my memory for stuff like that is not so great.

What's kept me away form rod building in the past are all the finicky, nit-picky details/options. I barely know enough to ask an intelligent question on the subject.

I am assuming that more wraps of a lighter thread is stronger over all, but that the 'A' nylon is more than sufficient and just less smooth in appearance.

Is there a better coating to use?

Better Question: Given a generic graphite rod, getting a new seat and guides, what would you use?
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:23 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

You want regular size A nylon thread and your "generic graphite rod" (IM6) will probably use a tip-top of around a size 4.5 or 5.
The high-build finish is fine. There's nothing fancy about it.

I have both a Fenwick and a Pflueger rod of that age. Big difference in quality.
I payed $22 for that Pflueger and $150 for the (top of the line/closeout) Fenwick.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:58 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Bet you can't guess which end of the quality range we're talking about - bad reel seat, lower end cork, guides spiraled nigh 1/4 rotation around the blank. It is MI6 though and feels to be moderate/fast - most all the flex is in the top 1/3 of the rod.

Not looking for fancy nor pretty. Goal is for effective.

Thanks again for all your help Rip Tide.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:45 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Just finished stripping of the old guides, windings and such from the rod. That IS a lot easier said than done. Not actually so 'hard', but definitely takes so concentration and a good thumb nail. Boiling water to go after the tip top now. All that is left on there is a bit more finish, the old cork handle minus on ring and the old winding check.

Trying to decide if I should get those off too and start with a clean old blank.

QUESTION: Is it possible or wise to go after the blank with an uber fine rubbing compound or even a soft wet sand with 1500 grit?
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:43 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Quote:
Originally Posted by random user View Post
Just finished stripping of the old guides, windings and such from the rod. That IS a lot easier said than done. Not actually so 'hard', but definitely takes so concentration and a good thumb nail. Boiling water to go after the tip top now. All that is left on there is a bit more finish, the old cork handle minus on ring and the old winding check.

Trying to decide if I should get those off too and start with a clean old blank.

QUESTION: Is it possible or wise to go after the blank with an uber fine rubbing compound or even a soft wet sand with 1500 grit?
It will be tough to get a uniformed finish if you sand it and you run the risk of exposing the fibers if you sand too far. I would stay away from sanding the blank. The tip top should have been secured with ferrule cement, all you need is a cigarette lighter to heat it and pull the tip off.
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