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Old 03-30-2013, 05:37 PM
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Default Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Have been wondering about this for a while. Can’t find much on the idea, here or elsewhere.

Have an old IM6 graphite #5. Guides are spiraling around the rod, and the uplocking reel seat is shifting under the cork. Reel seat, in general, is kind of sketchy too.

Stripping the rod down to just the rod, replacing the reel seat and cork and re-wrapping the guides…. Is it worth the time and effort to see if I want to pursue this further without actually spending much? Goal would be a usable, solid rod.

Skill level: been tying flies for more years than I am willing to admit, forged blades in 900 AD tech (with modern steel) and made the handles the same way. Can modify my wiper motor driver fly dryer to turn the rod.

Viable project or just a ‘learning experience’?

Thanks much.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:03 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

I'd say go ahead if you really like the way the rod has always worked. If you want to learn how to wind guides and change out reel seats this is as good a spot to start as any.

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Old 03-31-2013, 08:43 AM
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Thumbs up Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

If you like the rod, then you should diffidently rebuild it.
I do it often. The last one was a $25 IM6 8wt. It got stripped to the bone and then got a new seat, grip, and guides including 3 more guides than the original. It's a better rod now than when it was new.

Another one of my rods has been rebuilt so many times that the only original piece is the butt section of the 2 piece blank. That rod is on it's third grip.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:55 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Rip Tide,
Thanks.

It's a nothing special / teaching / loaner rod, and I don't really use it.

You available to answer some potential questions after I finish a bunch of youtubing and googling?
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:52 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

It can definitely be worth the time and effort. While waiting for back-ordered components one winter, I took an old fiberglass rod, stripped it down to the bare blank (even removed the ugly paint), and rebuilt it just for practice. It turned out to be a favorite rod of mine. And even if you fail, you learned something valuable in the process, guaranteed. Plus, you can always strip it down and try again.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:08 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Finally got around to getting the reel seat off. Was surprizingly easy. Heat water. Soak butt of rod for maybe 3-5 minutes. Grab with towel and pull strait off to avoid splintering blank.

I'm thinking I did not want to find paper tube as a bushing.

Next is a little scraping and some measuring.
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:15 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Paper arbor.... no big deal . You'll see paper, wood, tape, just about anything that was on hand to fill the void. I usually use masking tape and the self adhesive mesh drywall tape when I have a lot of space to fill. I only use the drywall mesh if I am installing a thin wall metal seat. Never saw the need to buy the fancy graphite arbors they sell.

Enjoy the rebuild,
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:26 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Those paper arbors are a bad thing, especially if they are not glued right. Here's what happened to a friend of mine. We fished in the rain and right in the middle of a cast, her reel came flying off and into the mud. The rain had swelled the paper arbor because the glue was done badly and it leaked. It swelled enough to crack the back of the seat which departed and sent the reel into the mud.

The cheapest way to go is masking tape arbors. Make sure they are BURIED in epoxy when you put the seat on. The best tape for thin arbors though is the fiberglass mesh tape for drywall. Get the epoxy all the way down to the blank through the tape. The best thing for thick arbors is graphite.They don't swell or move with humidity and getting wet, and are not going to rot or turn funky on you years down the road.

Whatever you use, make sure the glue makes it down to the blank so the ends of the arbor are sealed.
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Last edited by Guest1; 04-18-2013 at 05:43 PM. Reason: left out a word and a letter
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:36 PM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

Thanks for the info. I kind of get it I think

Used an exacto to cut the masking tape where I found in and as pretty much able to peel the pare roll stuff off layer by layer. So far so good.

Used hot tap water and a back of a plastic knife to scrape away the non-water soluable glue away. Went brain dead for a bit near the end and finished up scrubbing the final bits off with a green scrubber thing on the back of a sponge and dawn dish washing liquid. Don't think I did any damage.

Did end up with a really pretty flat grey blank though. Makes me wounder if I should do the whole rod like that. It's a really cool gray and purdee when wet. I think I am down to the raw graphite.

Bottom cork ring is messed up, so that was sliced off

Shopping list:
reel seat
guide set
tip top (which I haven't gone after yet. (guessing boiling water and pull strait)
few extra cork rings
color preserver
thread
some kind of coating / finish.

Am I missing anything?
Anyone know where I can find guide wrapping thred the is two-toned brown/amber (or orange)?
Is there anything wrong with pouring the bushing under the reel seat with say 65a cast-able Urethane? (65a is about the same hardness as big 4 cylinder engine mounts.)
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Last edited by random user; 04-18-2013 at 10:37 PM. Reason: epyt t'nac I
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:19 AM
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Default Re: Worth while to salvage on old, decent blank as a first project?

The variegated thread is called "jasper" but this is the only affordable one that I know of.
Pearsall's Gossamer silk thread Jasper #33
There are others. A spool from Rick's Rods is 20 bucks.

IMO tip-tops are hard to size, even after measuring. Fortunately they're cheap. I buy an assortment
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