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Old 07-08-2011, 03:13 PM
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Smile Re: Heat fly rod

Quote:
Originally Posted by grassonfly View Post
thanks everybody for the comments and should i get the hobbs creek heat fly rod combo? and will it be harder to do a 40 50 foot cast with a 7'10'' rod?
I had 2 Hobbs Creek reels (4wt and 8wt). Both reels had a good adjustable drag, were durable, and much lighter than many machined reels. Although the reels were cast, they were smooth, had close tolerances, and were nice to fish with. The tolerances are right up there with my machined flyreels. Very nice (and good looking IMHO) reels for $40 each.

With practice, any 7'10" rod should easily cast 40 or 50 ft. I have a little 4wt that stands 5'8" that'll cast 40 or 50 ft, as long as I do my part. Just remember to keep your line speed up and throw tight loops...and keep your line slick and clean!

Cheers,

Robert
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:04 PM
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Default Re: Heat fly rod

thanks a ton
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:56 AM
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Default Re: Heat fly rod

Quote:
Originally Posted by grassonfly View Post
thanks everybody for the comments and should i get the hobbs creek heat fly rod combo? and will it be harder to do a 40 50 foot cast with a 7'10'' rod?
Another important thing to consider when considering short rods is where you'll be using it.

If you expect to be wading thigh deep, longer casts become difficult because the line is starting out closer to the water, and its more difficult to keep the line from touching the water's surface. If you're on the deck of a boat its really not an issue.

I also find it more difficult to get more line out quickly with a short rod compared to a longer rod, due to a shorter lever reducing line speed. (yeah yeah, let the Lee Wulff counterpoints begin) This becomes an issue when you see a cruising redfish 50' off the bow of a boat and you're trying to drop a fly ASAP.

There's two reasons I sold off my 7'10" Redington Predator. I was fishing it with a 6.5wt line. A 7wt might have improved the latter issue a bit.
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:14 PM
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Default Re: Heat fly rod

I know I'm a late comer to this thread, but I recently had the chance to cast one of the 2nd generation complete heat rods and compare it against a TFO Pro II (9') rod. I can honestly and confidently say you will not suffer any distance loss with this shorter rod. I was able to cast in the ponds in front of my local BPS, and once I got a feel for the rod I was punching out 90' casts with relative ease on 3or so false casts. I WILL be purchasing one of the Heat/Hobbs Creek combos later this week! This rod is made for hauling large flies and shooting line. If anyone here has any doubts I recommend you ask to cast one, it certainly squashed any doubts I had when I first looked at it and thought "there's no way that little 7'10" rod can launch flies at any distance" it's a winner in my book
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:36 PM
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Default Re: Heat fly rod

I had the 8wt for a short period of time. The 7ft+ isn't for me... Too short and stiff for my casting preference. It went on the local classifieds. 9ft single hands are more versitle in that weight range...7.5ft in 3wts are money! IMO
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:58 AM
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Default Re: Heat fly rod

Throwing a little information out here, perhaps a bit off topic, but not that much since some of the guys were talking about line weights.

Probably the most versatile rod action one can get is a progressively fast action with a good deal of back bone.

A slow or parabolic rod will cast just about any line, but none of them really well, that is because a good deal of the loading is actually against the weight of the rod blank it'self instead of the line. Thus the energy stored in the rod by the cast is used to overcome more weight of the rod when it recovers. It's much like getting a car to ride smoothly merely by making it heavier than by a better suspension.

An extra fast action rod will perform best but with a more limited range of rod weight as the loading is closer to the tip, has to move less weight and for a shorter distance but is far more critical to mistakes in the angler's timing.

a progressively fast action rod is easy to identify by pressing the rod against either the ceiling or floor at different angles and then applying power. It will start to bend very close to the tip and as more pressure is applied, the bend will move evenly down the blank. A slow action rod begins to bend at the butt section early and a fast action rod produces a pronounced bend toward the tip.

Thus the progressively fast action in the hands of a good caster will cast a much wider range of lines over a longer range of casting distances.

Those who might have cast the old G.Loomis 1146's (9'6" for a #6) might remember them. The rod would cast lines from a 4 to a 10 quite well in the hands of a good caster.

One of the difficulties in making such a rod is the expense of the mandrels and the maintenance. There is just a certain diameter to which a mandrel tip can be turned easily so mandrel tips are often straight for the last 10-14".
Thus it's a stiff lever and not a spring loaded lever in that tip which is used to cast lighter lines and lighter loads at short distances.

Also the thin mandrel is more easily damaged and takes more care in handling, rolling, etc. to avoid damage requiring re straightening more often, often for each rod blank.

The reasoning is simple, the stiffness of the rod is determined by how many fibers compose the the cross section. If the mandrel is large the same number of fibers result in fewer layers and are thus are thinner and more fragile. You know what happens to a thin walled fast action blank when you high stake a fish!

What is a fine casting tool may not always be a good fishing rod and vice versa.

Like a fine gun, you should never throw it in the back of the pick up truck with the dog, beer and gear, never sit on it, lay it on the ground, place a male or female ferrule against the ground, leave it in the boat overnight (plays havoc with many epoxy finishes) and treat it so. Would you leave your Weatherby to bounce around in the truck?
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