04-28-2015, 08:58 AM
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Punta Gorda, Florida
Re: Heat fly rod
Throwing a little information out here, perhaps a bit off topic, but not that much since some of the guys were talking about line weights.
Probably the most versatile rod action one can get is a progressively fast action with a good deal of back bone.
A slow or parabolic rod will cast just about any line, but none of them really well, that is because a good deal of the loading is actually against the weight of the rod blank it'self instead of the line. Thus the energy stored in the rod by the cast is used to overcome more weight of the rod when it recovers. It's much like getting a car to ride smoothly merely by making it heavier than by a better suspension.
An extra fast action rod will perform best but with a more limited range of rod weight as the loading is closer to the tip, has to move less weight and for a shorter distance but is far more critical to mistakes in the angler's timing.
a progressively fast action rod is easy to identify by pressing the rod against either the ceiling or floor at different angles and then applying power. It will start to bend very close to the tip and as more pressure is applied, the bend will move evenly down the blank. A slow action rod begins to bend at the butt section early and a fast action rod produces a pronounced bend toward the tip.
Thus the progressively fast action in the hands of a good caster will cast a much wider range of lines over a longer range of casting distances.
Those who might have cast the old G.Loomis 1146's (9'6" for a #6) might remember them. The rod would cast lines from a 4 to a 10 quite well in the hands of a good caster.
One of the difficulties in making such a rod is the expense of the mandrels and the maintenance. There is just a certain diameter to which a mandrel tip can be turned easily so mandrel tips are often straight for the last 10-14".
Thus it's a stiff lever and not a spring loaded lever in that tip which is used to cast lighter lines and lighter loads at short distances.
Also the thin mandrel is more easily damaged and takes more care in handling, rolling, etc. to avoid damage requiring re straightening more often, often for each rod blank.
The reasoning is simple, the stiffness of the rod is determined by how many fibers compose the the cross section. If the mandrel is large the same number of fibers result in fewer layers and are thus are thinner and more fragile. You know what happens to a thin walled fast action blank when you high stake a fish!
What is a fine casting tool may not always be a good fishing rod and vice versa.
Like a fine gun, you should never throw it in the back of the pick up truck with the dog, beer and gear, never sit on it, lay it on the ground, place a male or female ferrule against the ground, leave it in the boat overnight (plays havoc with many epoxy finishes) and treat it so. Would you leave your Weatherby to bounce around in the truck?