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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2013, 01:41 PM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

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Originally Posted by Diver Dan View Post
...pretty close to 90 degrees from the straightest visual line...
Really funny you should mention that number (90 deg.). That's where the spine was on at least one section of the first two rods I looked at. I thought I must be doing this wrong. But, no matter how many times I did it, at least one of the pieces always came up the same, with the spine at 90 deg. to the guides.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:23 PM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

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Originally Posted by plecain View Post
Really funny you should mention that number (90 deg.). That's where the spine was on at least one section of the first two rods I looked at. I thought I must be doing this wrong. But, no matter how many times I did it, at least one of the pieces always came up the same, with the spine at 90 deg. to the guides.
Worst possible spot to have it. How does the rod line up when all the parts are together? The easiest way to do the whole rod is hold it by the tip, put your thumb on your other hand across the blank, holding it up, as close to halfway down as you can reach. Roll the rod over your thumb and you can tell instantly where the spine is.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:50 AM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

Latest test.

I took one of the rods I mentioned earlier, the Echo3 (7'6", 3 wt, ERN=3.12).

I found the spine on each section:
Tip section: 45 deg CCW from guides
2nd section: 45 deg CW from guides
3rd section: aligned with guides
Butt section: aligned with guides

Whole rod: aligned with guides

I'll look at the other rods later.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:27 PM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

Here are a few inexpensive rods that I have tested over the years.

Click the image to open in full size.

Note: A few of the listed weights in this chart may be off, as some / most are cheaper used / or older rods, where listed weights were not always easily obtainable. And some had dual ratings, in this case I just grabbed the rating off the blank that was closest to my result in testing.

I have a few more rods to test, that I have only lined up by feel, when picking up a new rod, I usually forget the number that is on the blank, and try to match it up to a line just by feel, only later do I test using measurements. I found that many of my hand test often coincide with what I would expect once known measurements get put in place for both the blank, and grain of the line. (But not always).

Last edited by charged; 03-11-2013 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:36 PM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

Just because CCS indicates that a rod drops between certain perameters in power and action DOES NOT mean that the rod IS that prescribed weight. Although CCS gives us a starting point, there are many other factors which determine what and why a rod is marked with its specific weight line. Factors like material the rod is made with, weight of the rod, balance of the rod all make a huge difference in how a rod should be marked. How much line is the rod designed to carry? How fast is the recovery of a particular rod? What is the frequency? CCS does not cover any of these factors thus in reality is a flawed system from the beggining. Although I believe CCS gives us a way to determine the basic intrinsic power of a rod. It certainly is wayyyy to flawed to give exact specifics of how a rod should be marked regarding weight of lines. Use it as a tool for a starting point and nothing more.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:53 PM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

Pegboy1, your comments are 100% accurate. The only thing CCS provides is a measurement contained within limited variables, as your post indicated, there are other variables that also should be taken into consideration. What it does help provide, is a baseline measurement to help an angler determine what the other subjective variables may also include.
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Old 01-01-2015, 01:31 PM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

When a rod is rolled, there is a spiral line where the pennant of graphite is wrapped. This increases the wall thickness at it goes toward the butt.

Then the rod is baked, the mandrel removed and the shrink wrap cellophane removed. After that the blank goes through a centerless sander. Depending up the skill of the machine operator, it is hopefully pretty much the same thickness.

However, nothing is perfect and one wall is almost always a little more thick than the other side of the blank. This often produces a curve to one side.

When the rod is flexed for spine or splining, 99% of the time it is the same as the curve. Normally the hard or strong side of the rod is used for the pick up and fish fighting power. Since the weaker side of the rod is used on the fore cast, there is little tendency of the rod top to torque to one side or the other.

Now, take a look at a snake guide, it's like a little spring. wind each side down and in addition to the stiffening part of the guide feet against the rod, there is the spring of the guide with which to contend.

This totally changes the equation. when you try to torque test a rod to see where the spline is after the guides have been attached, there is no comparison to where it was before the rod was wound.

I've heard rod makers who were way over their head say stuff like "You have to wind the guides, re spline it and put the guides back on in the correct spot." This total malarkey, the strongest side of the rod blank is still the strongest side of the blank.

Now I've seen rods which were sanded so much in one spot that you could crush them between your thumb and the tip of your fore finger.
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Old 01-01-2015, 04:42 PM
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Default Re: My real rod weights

I guess all this stuff makes since but I find a rod that feels good line it up and cast it. I may use a heavier line now and then but the less technical I make it the more I enjoy it. I try to keep it simple and just fish.

---------- Post added at 04:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:40 PM ----------

I never have weighed anything
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