I have been hitting the internet pretty hard of late trying to find the best prescription fishing glasses possible. Having poor vision it is important for me not to miss any opportunity to improve my eyesight. Although the best normally means they won't be cheap, neither do they have to be the most expensive. Having said all that, I thought some of the forum members might find the info useful.
Most men have some degree of color blindness and while it may not affect the vision of most, for some of us it is severe and by trying different colors of tinting you may find a particular color that will improve contrast and actually allow you to see some colors better, (combining brown and yellow tints helps me) so going with the standard grey is not always the best.
This is one area where inexpensive doesn't always equate to low quality. A $75.00 pair can be as good or better than ones costing over $200.00. I don't mind my office glasses slipping down my nose some, but on my outdoor or fishing glasses it's best if they ride high to keep the sun from sneaking in from above. Look for frames with the Megol Nose Pads they will stick in place when wet with moisture or sweat.
Glass has the best clarity and hardest to scratch and if you have thick glasses they get real heavy real quick, plus if dropped on a rock they will shatter.
CR-39 is a plastic that is lighter than glass hard to scratch but can shatter when hit or dropped just right on a rock. Will also show distortion around the edges.
Polycarbonate will not shatter but scratches easily and needs scratch resistant coatings added. This too will have some inherent distorting.
SR- 91 A fairly new plastic made by Kaenon Sunglasses, the clarity is almost equal to glass and so is the distortion. Compared to the other plastics it is the most difficult to scratch and shatter. Also their polarization is second to none.
You are no longer limited to buying the lens and frame from the same manufacturer. Kaenon makes their own frames but I am buying Smith frames with Kaenon lenses. I didn't do this for aesthetic reasons and will explain.
Base Frame Number
Refers to the curve of the frame with a 10 being the highest degree of curve around your face. The stronger prescriptions become to thick and also more difficult to make fit these highly curved frames. Now the reason for mix matching lens and frames. Because my prescription lens are so thick the low distortion of the Kaenon SR-91 coupled with its lightness as compared to glass is my obvious choice. However Kaenon doesn't make a frame in the 6 base (greatest degree of curve that will accept my prescription) nor do they manufacture lenses to even fit a 6 base. They do however let out contracts for the SR-91 lenses to other manufacturers with these capabilities.
This is another name for hidden bifocals with a kicker. As your eye moves down the lens for closer objects they transition in strength and get stronger. Their downside is loosing perepheal vision when looking left or right off of dead center. So you tend to move your head more instead of just your eyes.
A computer program helps calculate the grinding of the back side of the lens, when combined with the transition lenses it allows for greater perepheal vision without having to move your head as much, making more of the lens usable.
PD Measurement (pupil distance)
Measured in mm from center to center of pupils and is used to center the lens to your pupil regardless of lens size. If you will be ordering transition lenses it is important to also get the pd of each eye measured to the center of your nose. Ask your optician to give you this number also or he may not right it down.
How To Buy
Some opticians can be rather limited as to the options of lenses or frames they have available. To each their own of course but I like Adseyewear 214-477-6787, they are very patient, easy to reach by phone and go above and beyond to make sure you get the right lens and frames. They will also send you frames to try for fit.
I am not a doctor and these are only my observations.