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Old 05-09-2011, 11:21 PM
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Default Prescription Fishing Glasses

Ladies/Gents

I have been hitting the internet pretty hard of late trying to find the best prescription fishing glasses possible. Having poor vision it is important for me not to miss any opportunity to improve my eyesight. Although the best normally means they won't be cheap, neither do they have to be the most expensive. Having said all that, I thought some of the forum members might find the info useful.

Lens Color

Most men have some degree of color blindness and while it may not affect the vision of most, for some of us it is severe and by trying different colors of tinting you may find a particular color that will improve contrast and actually allow you to see some colors better, (combining brown and yellow tints helps me) so going with the standard grey is not always the best.

Frames:

This is one area where inexpensive doesn't always equate to low quality. A $75.00 pair can be as good or better than ones costing over $200.00. I don't mind my office glasses slipping down my nose some, but on my outdoor or fishing glasses it's best if they ride high to keep the sun from sneaking in from above. Look for frames with the Megol Nose Pads they will stick in place when wet with moisture or sweat.

Lens Material:

Glass has the best clarity and hardest to scratch and if you have thick glasses they get real heavy real quick, plus if dropped on a rock they will shatter.

CR-39 is a plastic that is lighter than glass hard to scratch but can shatter when hit or dropped just right on a rock. Will also show distortion around the edges.

Polycarbonate will not shatter but scratches easily and needs scratch resistant coatings added. This too will have some inherent distorting.

SR- 91 A fairly new plastic made by Kaenon Sunglasses, the clarity is almost equal to glass and so is the distortion. Compared to the other plastics it is the most difficult to scratch and shatter. Also their polarization is second to none.

Lens/Frame

You are no longer limited to buying the lens and frame from the same manufacturer. Kaenon makes their own frames but I am buying Smith frames with Kaenon lenses. I didn't do this for aesthetic reasons and will explain.

Base Frame Number

Refers to the curve of the frame with a 10 being the highest degree of curve around your face. The stronger prescriptions become to thick and also more difficult to make fit these highly curved frames. Now the reason for mix matching lens and frames. Because my prescription lens are so thick the low distortion of the Kaenon SR-91 coupled with its lightness as compared to glass is my obvious choice. However Kaenon doesn't make a frame in the 6 base (greatest degree of curve that will accept my prescription) nor do they manufacture lenses to even fit a 6 base. They do however let out contracts for the SR-91 lenses to other manufacturers with these capabilities.

Transition lenses

This is another name for hidden bifocals with a kicker. As your eye moves down the lens for closer objects they transition in strength and get stronger. Their downside is loosing perepheal vision when looking left or right off of dead center. So you tend to move your head more instead of just your eyes.

Digital Lenses

A computer program helps calculate the grinding of the back side of the lens, when combined with the transition lenses it allows for greater perepheal vision without having to move your head as much, making more of the lens usable.

PD Measurement (pupil distance)

Measured in mm from center to center of pupils and is used to center the lens to your pupil regardless of lens size. If you will be ordering transition lenses it is important to also get the pd of each eye measured to the center of your nose. Ask your optician to give you this number also or he may not right it down.

How To Buy

Some opticians can be rather limited as to the options of lenses or frames they have available. To each their own of course but I like Adseyewear 214-477-6787, they are very patient, easy to reach by phone and go above and beyond to make sure you get the right lens and frames. They will also send you frames to try for fit.

I am not a doctor and these are only my observations.

Dave
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:42 AM
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Default Re: Prescription Fishing Glasses

I had my eye doctor make me a pair of polorized prescription bifocal sunglasses, amber lenses and 2x normal strength on the bifocals (I wanted them stronger to see the flies better) and I love them. So much nicer than the clip ons, etc. and with the amber and a small led light I can easily tie on flies in the dusk - I am not recommending using any sunglass in the dark that may be bad on the river.

Just thought I would add my $.02.

d
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:46 AM
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Default Re: Prescription Fishing Glasses

Costa also makes sunglasses with bifocals.
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:10 AM
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Default Re: Prescription Fishing Glasses

looks useful inf, thanks for your share.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:54 AM
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Default Re: Prescription Fishing Glasses

Good info, but I wanted to throw out a semi-correction, and a solution to a problem cited.

I think "Transition lenses" are more commonly thought of as the photochromic lenses that darken with exposure to sunlight. They're officially called "Transitions lenses" to be completely accurate. They also aren't necessarily bi/tri-focal at all.

I've actually just gotten them in my everyday glasses, and while they would be handy when fishing in non-bright conditions, they've got one major downfall: there are no photochromic lenses that get fully clear that are also polarized. There are some polarized sunglasses that get darker in strong sunlight and lighter in less bright conditions, but none that are polarized and go all the way to clear.

I have a pair of polarized prescription sunglasses as well, and they're mostly great, except that the weight of the 100% hard plastic frames and lenses (large coverage on a large head= heavy) frequently want to slip down. However, all I have to do is add a "Chums" style retainer, and that stops. They don't even have to be tight, the counterbalancing weight prevents slippage.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:59 PM
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Default Re: Prescription Fishing Glasses

I swear by Action Optics from Smith. I have a pair of neutral gray, photochromic, bifocal 2.0X with an astigmatism correction on the main lens. They are either on my nose (with chums) when fishing or in the pocket of my car.

If I'm not mistaken, the Action Optics bifocal uses a slightly smaller magnifier than most other bifocals.

I learned years ago that any tint other than neutral grey drives me nuts.

Chris
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:16 PM
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Default Re: Prescription Fishing Glasses

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCliff View Post
Good info, but I wanted to throw out a semi-correction, and a solution to a problem cited.

I think "Transition lenses" are more commonly thought of as the photochromic lenses that darken with exposure to sunlight. They're officially called "Transitions lenses" to be completely accurate. They also aren't necessarily bi/tri-focal at all.

I've actually just gotten them in my everyday glasses, and while they would be handy when fishing in non-bright conditions, they've got one major downfall: there are no photochromic lenses that get fully clear that are also polarized. There are some polarized sunglasses that get darker in strong sunlight and lighter in less bright conditions, but none that are polarized and go all the way to clear.

I have a pair of polarized prescription sunglasses as well, and they're mostly great, except that the weight of the 100% hard plastic frames and lenses (large coverage on a large head= heavy) frequently want to slip down. However, all I have to do is add a "Chums" style retainer, and that stops. They don't even have to be tight, the counterbalancing weight prevents slippage.
BigCliff...Yes you are correct, I was speaking of progressive lens and unfortunately typed in transition by mistake.

Is there any particular style of Chums that you find better and or more comfortable?

Thank you for the correction.

Dave
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