on another forum a fisherman told me that the 5 wt isnt needed, as the 4 and 6 is the proper choices...?..... around here the 5wt is pretty much the accepted rod. i thought this was to land the fish quickly for good sprortsmanship lots of wind etc... so i tried my new 5wt b2x, and noticed accuracy problems... but im a chunker, plunking wet big stuff down deep not really careing exactly were it goes becose i cant see the fish anyway.. becouse this fellow said the 4 wt was better for dry fly presentation i brought home a used 4 wt about 7 1/2 foot orvis silver label from my store.. at 30 feet it lays down quite accurately and gently.. i cant see well and im going to have to go with that or less as a general distance with the small flys on the misouri.. the 5wt b2x with rio trout line just is a real job to get it to come down softly and accuratly at that range,, but what do i know? im a nymph fisherman and dry fly wannabe? Joni told me something of the sort aobut the b2x when i was talking about it and the z axis earlier.. when i tried the 6 wt z axis with rio mainstreem, i was extreemly impressed with its accuracy and it works pretty good (havnt really tested short range delicate presentation) at shorter ranges too..the salesman told me the mainstreem is a beginners line with shorter end taper for begginers.. with thepowerfull z axis it works for me.... so im pretty confused, and will probably get better with all of them as the year goes on.. the b2x has a crook in the bottom joint, and i cant get in comunication with winston thru thier website from which im blocked for some strange reason which is strange to me.. they probably think im some kind of nut.. probably right, but it isnt helping their case any... any way this crook could make the pole very sensitive to twisting the hand throwing it side to side? im slowy becomeing more and more dissapointed with the b2x rather than getting used to it, which make my first very expensive rod buy a unhappy thing.... any help or comments welcome about my casting problems, or the rods im using is welcome.. thanks dave..
In general, it will be easier to be accurate with a shorter rod than with a long one, due to the fact that any errors made by the casting hand affecting accuracy will be amplified more by a longer rod. If you are used to casting with a heavy/large fly on the end of your leader, then casting accurately with a dry fly will be a whole different ball-game. You'll need to allow time for your casting loop to unroll, and then settle down in the spot where you want the fly to land. It also will turn over quite a bit slower than a streamer would, especially if you're used to casting that streamer on a sinking or sink tip line.
"the fact that any errors made by the casting hand affecting accuracy will be amplified more by a longer rod." boy, am i glad you brought that up.. i was going to go out looking at 4 weights, now i know i need a 8-8 1/2 footer.. thanks dave
I will agree that a shorter 4wt is a more ideal smallish stream dry fly rod, but remember that a shorter rod won't work as well for the mending and such that tends to go along with nymphing. However, if you're thinking a good set up would be a 9' 5wt for nymphing and streamers, and a 8-8.5' 4wt for dries, I would totally agree with that. Now if you can find out how to get a ghillie to work for free.....
I love my 10' 4 piece 5wt TFO Pro. for all fishing situations. Agree totally on the mending be a breeze with a rod that long, plus, you can get a good deal of line out on a windy day.I have weenie arms and I have no problem casting this rod all day long. Plus a dream in my pontoon or tube.In fact my next rod will be a 12' switch rod in a 5 or 6wt. Be able to cast into next week with that thing.
I know distance isn't always the case, and there too, I can pull some line out and drift that fly right in front of me, then work my way across the river so as to cover the whole thing.
But on Lakes there is that casting distance thing to get it out, let it sink into the zone and strip back cover a large body of water at once.