It's snowing and I have nothing to do so I thought I would add to the confusing mythology of fly fishing for beginners and those less advanced than myself.
I have been playing around with sink tips lately and you can blame Hardyreels for most of what follows. I have been particularly concerned with weight and density, lead cores and tungsten impregnated PVC and how these relate to the sink rate, etc. Well, this leads to making my own custom tips which then, of course leads to making end loops since I like to link things together with loop to loop connections. Here is what I came up with. This may get a little confusing for those less advanced than myself in the arts of knot tying, midge tying, and the numerous other sundry minutia of fly fishing pursuits so you are forewarned!
First I made some double-catch end loops out of some Cortland 30# monofilament braid I had laying around. I was assured by a guy on you-tube that I needed to double-catch my loop to avoid losing the fish of a lifetime so that is what I did. So far so good. I should note here that you can purchase these loops already made up but they are outrageously expensive (around a buck apiece!) and besides, making them yourself is fun! You can buy 100 yard spool of braided monofilament for less than $30 and you will have enough to make roughly 600 end loops so you can see what a bargain it is to make them yourself! Did I mention it is also loads of fun? Anyway, next I needed to attach the loop to my sink tip
I inch wormed my line down through the braided mono and tied a nail knot toward the end of the braided mono where the sink tip entered. A problem developed when I pulled on the line and here is where it gets complicated.
The braided mono stretched leaving a gap between where the sink tip and the braided mono inside the outer braided mono met. This created a hinge effect (limp spot) where the sink tip and the inside braided mono met. So I started all over again.
I decided I could eliminate the limp spot where the braided mono inside the outer braided mono didn't quite meet with the sink tip inside the outer braided mono by overlapping the sink tip inside the mono with the mono inside the outer braided mono. Are you following so far? Maybe a series of pictures would help but I can't figure out how to load them on here.
This time when I stretched the loop, the hinge or limp spot between the sink tip inside the outer braided mono and the inside braided mono was eliminated! I eventually realized that I could more easily eliminate this hinge spot by simply inching a little more of the double-catched braided mono inside the outer braided mono so that there was no space between the sink tip inside the braided mono and the double catched (or is it double-caught?) braided mono inside the outer braided mono. Of course this requires that you have a large enough loop to be able to have a little extra braided mono to inch up inside the outer braided mono.
Now all you have to do is trim the tag ends of your nail knot and the frayed ends of the braided mono sticking out from the line end of the nail knot and coat the nail knot with some Aquaseal or flexible epoxy and you have a perfect looking end loop!
Does this loop hold up under the weight of a heavy fish? I have no idea, but it sure looks swell and it was sure a good way to kill a couple of hours on a snowy day in northwest Colorado! I think maybe I will go back to indicator fishing with a floating line. Maybe I could design a better indicator if I put my mind to it.
(Authors note: The preceding denotes an actual event, but was meant as a humorous representation of the facts involved.)