well in that case, try landing your fly on top of one of the lily pads and go from there. i often fish frog patterns for large mouth this way
I agree with casey, but do you have some type of weed guard on the Clouser?
Landing any weighted fly quietly is difficult. But casting well past your intended target, if possible, and in the travel path of the fish or retrieving to the targeted spot is usually the best approach.
However, as innes has said, the splash is not usually a problem with bass, and particularly around pads. They get used to commotion, from prey or other animals, and are often attracted to it, because it stirs up or dislodges possible prey.
In that situation, a Clouser would not be my first choice in flies. I would go with either a surface fly, or a light weight weedless pattern, that will slowly sink or suspend. A Seaducer or a Deceiver could be a good choice IMO. A 6" or 8" rabbit strip type fly could also be a good choice either without added weight, or if you need it weighted some. In that case I would go with a a fly that has the weight on the shank, or a conehead pattern, because it will come thru those pads a bit easier than a fly with barbell or bead chain eyes.
Cast it onto those pads, allow it to sit awhile, then slither it down into that hole & see what happens!
i went today and outfished a spinning tackle buddy 6-0 and caught some of the biggest bass of my fly fishing career
Congrats on the great day fishing!
but a clouser came by and snapped my tip off.
to hear that, one of the negatives about fishing with Clousers, or any other heavily weighted fly where the weight is exposed. Cones & beads can do damage too. I've known several folks who have done the same thing!
Sorry to hear about the crash, Randy's advice will help with keeping the tip out of the line of fire, there are many casts that will be real helpful at keeping the trailing fly and its weight away from your rod tip. Unfortunately I am not willing to start trying to describe all the variations in words. I would suggest swinging by your public library to see if they have a copy of "Fly Fishing' by Tom McNally. He published lots of books but the title I suggest is, I believe, his best work. His 'Basic Casting & Advanced Casting' chapters are loaded with good illustrations and instruction. This book is what took me from being some guy with a fly rod; to a fly caster who was not relying on luck to provide good results.
It won't cost you anything but some time and you can check availability from your computer I would guess. There are hundreds of books, videos, and classes out there. I got his book hot off the press in spring of 1979 and by fall I was a fly caster. Take the time to learn every cast described and master them; if you do this, seldom will be the time that you witness someone who is a better caster than you.
the only reason it hit the tip was because i was casting with a weird stroke and body position because of my friend next to me so i have to cast awkwardly on a lighter note since i outfished the heck out of him for the second time hes finally warming up to the thought of fly fishing. I appreciate the advice anyways
Kind of cool to find out the name of that weird cast I've been doing for a couple of years now!
I think of it as a circular/bolo false cast that can be launched when the right amount of line is out. Works with indicator setups too.
In the Belgian cast is an oval constant tension cast with a low sidearm backcast and and overhead forward cast. By placing the backcast and forward cast in two different casting planes and joining them with the oval transition, it prevents a tailing loop. For a the fly leg of the line to hook the rod leg of the line, they MUST be in the same casting plane. So the Belgian cast is also a cure for a tailing loop.
However, there is a disadvantage to the Belgian cast. Because it is an OVAL casting motion, it introduces another twist into the line for every oval casting motion. If you adopt the Belgian cast as your standard cast for everything, you need to allow the fly line to UNTWIST, by letting it drag in the current, With a light fly, the line will untwist, BUT with a heavy fly, it will not.
So be attentive when you use the Belgian cast to monitor your line for twist. Reeling up a twisted fly line and storing it that way is not good for the line. After you take off the fly, let it untwist before putting the line back on the reel.
"The disadvantage of this cast is that it throws a half twist in the line every cast. Half twists add up! So it's best to use this cast sparingly, otherwise you will have to get into the habit of removing the reel from the rod, every 30 casts, or so, in order to spin the twists out."