Loop connection

[cowger10]

Just curious I like to use the loop to loop connection I have tried the Chinese finger trap connections and they don't work very well on my 3 and 4 wts. I was wondering what would work the best. Maybe some mono with a loop on the end?

 

[axle27]

Are you talking about from the end of your fly line to the leader butt?

If so, I nail knot a piece of Amnesia (or you could you Mono, if you like) to the end of the flyline. I put a perfection loop on the other end. I usually make it about 2-3" long.

I don't use tapered leaders. The furled leaders already have loops on the end, so it's an easy connection.

 

[brookfieldangler]

What doesn't work for you?

Are they slipping off? Do you use the heat shrink tube that usually comes with the kit?

If so, I have found that a nail knotted piece of 6lb mono and a dab of superglue works much much better.

Also, make sure that you are using the correct size...a Rio braided loop - size large - won't work well on smaller lines but a small size will

 

[fly_guy12955]

Same as Axle.

 

[mrfzx]

I generally use the braided floating loops on my 3wt. depending on your flyline's finish they can slip. I have gotten into the habit of putting a drop of thin Zap-a-gap just in front of the heat shrink tube. One other method is to very lightly rough-up the tip of the flyline where it will be covered by the woven loop. I have heard of people using fingnail polish remover to "tack-up" the fly line before installing the woven loop....but have not tried it.

Now, I buy only flylines with the factory loop on them for all my lines under 7wt.

 

[cowger10]

They keep slipping on me. I am going to try mono with a perfection loop and some super glue. Thanks for the suggestions. I did not know that the rubber thing was to be heat shrunk.

 

[axle27]

Honestly, I don't know that I'd do the Super Glue. It MAY not have a good reaction with the fly line. I use a different adhesive which is a bit more flexible. The real idea is to seal the end of the fly line and work it into the nail knot.

I've done this on every size up to my 10wt. I use the Amnesia because it's bright red and works as a good indicator. OH, and I use 20lb on everything except the 10wt...it gets 30lb. of Mono.

 

[il_wi_fishing]

They keep slipping on me. I am going to try mono with a perfection loop and some super glue. Thanks for the suggestions. I did not know that the rubber thing was to be heat shrunk.

there are a few different types, the ones with the shrink tubes work better for me, the other type you need to add some sort of sealant or the connections will fail

i like em both when properly fastened

 

[alexs]

This is what I use:
No-Knot Fly Line to Leader Connection (per Cognard)
I use fine sandpaper to rough up the leader part that gets inserted in the line, at the same time creating a cone/point to help with inserting it in the hole. Once I finish, I'll give it an hour and that yank it a couple times really good. It failed on me only once, at home, while testing. It never failed on the water.
I have used this procedure down to DT0 line.

Hope it helps,
Alex

 

[silver creek]

They keep slipping on me. I am going to try mono with a perfection loop and some super glue. Thanks for the suggestions. I did not know that the rubber thing was to be heat shrunk.

If they are slipping off, you need to whip finish the end of the mono loop with tying thread and then coat the braided mono loop connector with Pliobond. It won't slip off.

I don't use the braided loop connectors. I use a nail knotted Cortland Amnesia .020"

---------- Post added at 01:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:33 PM ----------

This is what I use:
No-Knot Fly Line to Leader Connection (per Cognard)
I use fine sandpaper to rough up the leader part that gets inserted in the line, at the same time creating a cone/point to help with inserting it in the hole. Once I finish, I'll give it an hour and that yank it a couple times really good. It failed on me only once, at home, while testing. It never failed on the water.
I have used this procedure down to DT0 line.

Hope it helps,
Alex

This is a variation of Dave Whitlock's method.

http://www.warmwaterflytyer.com/pond.asp?page=4

I have found a problem with this method and wonder if it has happened to you.

I have found the mono stiffens the end of the fly line and you will eventually break down the fly line where the inserted mono ends. The stiff butt of the inserted mono causes hinging during the cast.

 

[alexs]

I have found a problem with this method and wonder if it has happened to you.

I have found the mono stiffens the end of the fly line and you will eventually break down the fly line where the inserted mono ends. The stiff butt of the inserted mono causes hinging during the cast.

No, i don't have issues with this variation of inserting the leader into the fly line. Whithlock's procedure pierces the fly line coating, creating a weak spot. The tearing will continue with casting. The hole created is big, since he pulls the leader with the needle, and probably this is the spot where the hinging is created.
The method I posted doesn't pierce the fly line. The needle is pushed up through the center of the fly line, preferably through the braided core. The heat will stretch a bit the core and coating and after cooling it will retain the new shape (with a hole in the center) The hole is approximately 3/4 inch long. I do the sanding of the leader and than dry fit the but into the hole. When everything is ready, I put a drop of superglue on the portion of the leader that gets inserted and push the leader but in the fly line. Add a drop of superglue at the end of the fly line and hold so it will flow in the connection.
Have towel ready to wipe off exes glue, and use latex gloves.
Check for soundness of connection (after the glue is cured); if it holds, you're good to go, if it comes loose, repeat procedure.
I especially like the fact that you almost don't feel anything when the joint goes through your guides.

NOTE: The leader but has to be thinner than the fly line end. pick a leader that has the smallest but diameter and works for your purpose(has the casting characteristics you want).

Tight lines,
Alex

 

[kglissmeyer1]

Are you talking about from the end of your fly line to the leader butt?

If so, I nail knot a piece of Amnesia (or you could you Mono, if you like) to the end of the flyline. I put a perfection loop on the other end. I usually make it about 2-3" long.

I don't use tapered leaders. The furled leaders already have loops on the end, so it's an easy connection.

Same for this fly angler. Works great!

Kelly.

 

[45fisher]

I like loop to loop connections.

I use those Braided loop connectors from Orvis and Cortland (or make my own with Cortland #20/#50 braided line) on all my fly lines from 3- 8wts and have never lost one through slippage...Yet?
I don't use superglue on the end/heat shrink, because it tends to make the braid a bit to brittle for me. I use Pliobond. Just before it hardens, but is still tacky, I roll it and form it into an long oval shape so it will travel through the guides easier. I probably don't need to use the heat shrink but I used both anyway.

I follow this with my furled leaders with a tippet ring, followed by the appropriate tippet.

Larry

 

[bugslinger]

They are a great idea for light wt. rods, but for serious fishing make a loop and three nail knots,glue them and you won't loose fish because of the factory loop or these being pulled off. In 2011 I lost a probable record IGFA Bull Shark because loop connectors pull off .

 

[comeonavs]

I had been using the amnesia method, which if necessary will do on 6wt and larger. I don't like it on 4wt and under for some reason, don't ask why because I don't know exactly. I think it might have to do with my perfection loop knot being to bulky.

For a 3wt the other day I cut off the amnesia and took and old 6X tapered leader that had a factory loop on it. Cut it down to about 12", nail knotted it to my floating line so that I have about 3" of mono and a loop.A little Loon UV knot sense to seal it up and viola. The factory loops on mono/floro leaders are slimmer than any knot I can tie. I've never had a fish bust my leader up t the loop so it seems as strong as Amnesia with a thinner profile for going through the eyes of the rod.

Sometimes the obvious answer evades me. why I didn't do this 3years ago I will never know.

 

[wjc]

Properly made hollow, blind spliced loops will neither pull off nor come apart and can be made with any hollow line that the fly line will fit into - including 400 lb test hollow spectra. They are ideal for large fish. IMO there are no properly made after-market loops on the market that I know of.

For most freshwater species I'd just nail knot the leader butt. You could always add another nail knot of 8 lb. test below the leader butt nail knot for salmon if you've never caught one before and don't trust a single nail knot