Loop connection
 

Just curious I like to use the loop to loop connection I have tried the Chinese finger trap connections and they don't work very well on my 3 and 4 wts. I was wondering what would work the best. Maybe some mono with a loop on the end?

Re: Loop connection
 

Are you talking about from the end of your fly line to the leader butt?

If so, I nail knot a piece of Amnesia (or you could you Mono, if you like) to the end of the flyline. I put a perfection loop on the other end. I usually make it about 2-3" long.

I don't use tapered leaders. The furled leaders already have loops on the end, so it's an easy connection.

Re: Loop connection
 

What doesn't work for you?

Are they slipping off? Do you use the heat shrink tube that usually comes with the kit?

If so, I have found that a nail knotted piece of 6lb mono and a dab of superglue works much much better.

Also, make sure that you are using the correct size...a Rio braided loop - size large - won't work well on smaller lines but a small size will

Re: Loop connection
 

Same as Axle.

Re: Loop connection
 

I generally use the braided floating loops on my 3wt. depending on your flyline's finish they can slip. I have gotten into the habit of putting a drop of thin Zap-a-gap just in front of the heat shrink tube. One other method is to very lightly rough-up the tip of the flyline where it will be covered by the woven loop. I have heard of people using fingnail polish remover to "tack-up" the fly line before installing the woven loop....but have not tried it.

Now, I buy only flylines with the factory loop on them for all my lines under 7wt.

Re: Loop connection
 

They keep slipping on me. I am going to try mono with a perfection loop and some super glue. Thanks for the suggestions. I did not know that the rubber thing was to be heat shrunk.

Re: Loop connection
 

Honestly, I don't know that I'd do the Super Glue. It MAY not have a good reaction with the fly line. I use a different adhesive which is a bit more flexible. The real idea is to seal the end of the fly line and work it into the nail knot.

I've done this on every size up to my 10wt. I use the Amnesia because it's bright red and works as a good indicator. OH, and I use 20lb on everything except the 10wt...it gets 30lb. of Mono.

Re: Loop connection
 

there are a few different types, the ones with the shrink tubes work better for me, the other type you need to add some sort of sealant or the connections will fail

i like em both when properly fastened

Re: Loop connection
 

This is what I use:
No-Knot Fly Line to Leader Connection (per Cognard)
I use fine sandpaper to rough up the leader part that gets inserted in the line, at the same time creating a cone/point to help with inserting it in the hole. Once I finish, I'll give it an hour and that yank it a couple times really good. It failed on me only once, at home, while testing. It never failed on the water.
I have used this procedure down to DT0 line.

Hope it helps,
Alex

Re: Loop connection
 

If they are slipping off, you need to whip finish the end of the mono loop with tying thread and then coat the braided mono loop connector with Pliobond. It won't slip off.

I don't use the braided loop connectors. I use a nail knotted Cortland Amnesia .020"

---------- Post added at 01:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:33 PM ----------

This is a variation of Dave Whitlock's method.

http://www.warmwaterflytyer.com/pond.asp?page=4

I have found a problem with this method and wonder if it has happened to you.

I have found the mono stiffens the end of the fly line and you will eventually break down the fly line where the inserted mono ends. The stiff butt of the inserted mono causes hinging during the cast.