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Old 05-04-2013, 09:17 PM
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Default Making a sink tip with several old fly lines

Hi -- I am curious about how to make an effective sink-tip line for a 5/6 weight rod. I realize I can purchase this kind of thing, but I'm interested in making one using some old lines I have.

Basically, I have a a 7 weight DT line, and a 4 weight DT line.......and 2 12' sink tips that I think might be around the t-8 weight range, because they're definitely not the fast sink, heavier tips like a super fast-sink rio poly leader (I own one of these for comparison). I think these came from sink tip fly lines that were probably like a 3-4" per second sink rate.

To the guys who do or used to make their own sink tips:

1. When chopping a floating line, do you tend to just cut the front taper off and create a loop in the end of the floater? This helps with "kicking" on the cast right?

2. Do you need to use a floater that is heavier or lighter than the rod is rate for? For example, on a 5 weight rod should I start with a 6-7 weight floater to butcher....or should I be using something smaller like a 4 weight line?

3. One idea I wanted to try is looping both 12' tips together into a 24' sink tip -- any tips for doing this effectively? (i.e. if I use 2 sink tips looped together should I make sure the floating line is lighter to compensate for the increased weight?)

Thank you very much! I'm just interested in giving this a try. I know you can just pretty much loop anything you want onto a floating line, but I'd like to keep casting/mechanics as effective as possible. I'll listen to you and I'm sure I'm less likely to do something stupid that way .
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:42 AM
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Default Re: Making a sink tip with several old fly lines

The only time that I ever cut a floating line is to to bring the weight forward... forward. To tweak it to match the rod or to turn a standard taper into a bass or SW taper.

For the lead-heads I use the loop2loop connection.
I have 7-8 plus of them, all of different lengths from 6 inches up to 18 feet.
Anyway that you do it, these are not the easiest things to cast.
Permanently attaching a single one to line isn't going to help that much. Plus you'd loose the versatility of being able to change.
I've looped multiple sections of the lead heads together when needed. I've often used a 6' lead-head on a full sinking line too when I needed to get down deep fast. That rig is not as hard to cast as you'd think.

My lead-heads are homemade from Cortland LC-13 which is quite a bit less costly than the tungsten stuff. Double whipped loops on the ends.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:39 AM
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Default Re: Making a sink tip with several old fly lines

Quote:
The only time that I ever cut a floating line is to to bring the weight forward... forward. To tweak it to match the rod or to turn a standard taper into a bass or SW taper.
This is a tangent question -- so basically the only purpose of a long front taper on the fly line is to essentially "slow down" and more gently turn over the fly right? (dissipate energy or whatever).

If you fish bass/panfish/SW and are in situations where better turn over of large flies and/or delicacy means nothing (not important to be gentle) it is pretty beneficial to "chop" a portion of the front taper, no?

Thanks Rip -- it looks like I'll learn something today.

I also didn't know about the LC-13 stuff. I've only heard about the tungsten stuff from folks.
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:02 AM
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Default Re: Making a sink tip with several old fly lines

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Originally Posted by turbineblade View Post
This is a tangent question -- so basically the only purpose of a long front taper on the fly line is to essentially "slow down" and more gently turn over the fly right? (dissipate energy or whatever).

If you fish bass/panfish/SW and are in situations where better turn over of large flies and/or delicacy means nothing (not important to be gentle) it is pretty beneficial to "chop" a portion of the front taper, no?
You don't want to cut the taper it self, just the level tip in front of where the taper begins. Usually there's about 6-8 inches of this level section.
I wouldn't do this indiscriminately, only if you feel sure that it will help with a particular rod.
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