Thanks for weighing in Davy. I'll probably develop confidence in the zap a gap connection on lines up to 6wt or so, just wanna start small first. Thanks especially for clarifying that the glue must be zap-a-gap, as I was about to use a different one.
One question, given that the method basically locks you into having one leader semi-permanently attached to the fly line, do you tie on your tippet section(s) via dbl surgeon's knots or with a loop2loop connection from leader to tippet. (Given your preference for fishing 2+ flies at a time, I'm guessing I know your answer.) If its not your first choice, are there any situations where you would think the loop2loop connection from leader to tippet would work fine?
Looking forward to that post on nymphing tactics as well!
I just yesterday received a fall clearance catalog from Feather-Craft & saw the Shimazaki tool you are seeking. I have never tried this method before. I typically use the nail knot & a perfection loop for my butt section. I too have some doubts when it comes to fishing for bigger trophies like the steelhead here in Michigan where I live. I did not have time to read all the responses you received from your question, but if it really works please let me know. By the way, I typically do not use tapered one piece lines past the butt section, which knot is the favorite for most of you when tying your own leaders ? Blood-knot, surgeons, or something better ?
I enjoy making up leaders, either furled or knotted tapers. When tying the knotted tapered leaders, the only knot I've used is the blood knot. I have one of the little blood knot tying tools and it makes it very easy to make the knot, and to have the lengths of each weight correct. I tie leaders from 50 lb butts (for 9 wt bass and salt) on down, and have had no problems with the knots. I usually put a perfection loop in the butt and go loop to loop with the fly line, but lately I've been experimenting with a wrapped and glued loop on the large butts. This is similar to the loops that are wrapped into the end of a fly line, and I use .004 diameter mono for the wrapping.
. . . The "Portal News" threads appear on the home page for all who log on to see. I occasionally move a thread to there so that everyone can easily see it on the home page. That way your thread gets maximum viewing. I only move the threads to "Portal News" that I feel are very interesting and well thought out. Sometimes, I'll even add an image in order to draw more attention. . .
Steve, this is obviously an old post and thread, but I ran across it while doing a word search (for Zap-A-Gap, not that it matters). I've been one of those who logs directly into Forums, but your note has got me thinking that I should first log into Home for the reasons you suggest. However, when I do so I don't see anything entitled "Portal News". Has that heading had a name change, or am I somehow not linking in correctly?
I am posting this instead of PM'ing you since I thought the topic might be of interest to other Members.
I think the tool is worth every penny, seriously.
Got together with a friend the other night for a little street casting and he had a line he accidentally cut in half at about the 20' mark. He had a small piece of backing with nail knots connecting the two pieces of line. I asked if I could try a better splice. I took this tool and put it through the end of one side. Then took a leader (one thing, you do need a tapered leader to go through the needle eye). Pulled it through to about 2" from the end. Scuffed the leader up with sandpaper, then Zap-Gap. Pulled and it sealed quickly. I then went through the side of the other end, to straight out the front (reversed). Did the same thing with the leader and pulled. They are now together again. A little knot sense, to smooth. By the way, when applying Knot Sense you all know to stay out of the sun till you are ready, but try taking a Hair Dryer to it first. It thins it out real good and you get even smoother results.
Oh, one more thing, some lines have an inner core that prevents using a needle....SYLK is one, and of course the clear ones.
Thanks for bumpng this thread up to the top. Even though it is old, I think it is worthwhile for those that haven't seen this method. I was introduced to this at Dave Whitlock seminar a few years back. I was a little skeptical about it until Dave brought out the materials to try it ourselves. When done correctly it is incredibly strong. The only real way to screw up is to not sand a slick leader before gluing it. You can practice on old fly ines if you are skeptical. The connection is easy to test. You can yank on the leader and flyline, and tell immediately whether you have done it right. It will fail with little pressure if youmessed up.
As far as the previous comment about the propoentns of this method not having cautght big fish, Dave Whitlock says that he uses this for all types of fisihing, including tarpon fishing. He mentioned that he has caught and landed dozens of tarpon using this system.
P.S. I believe the tool that he was using is called a "Crewel Needle" that is used in macrame and similar crafts. It can be found at the large craft stores like Michael's. ( I am not sure of the size, but #4 seems to be sticking in my brain).
You have to size the needle to the size if the fly line. Dave uses a pin vice to hold the needle. It makes handling the needles easier. The key to making the connection strong is to rough the mono with sand paper before you glue it.
For those who don't trust the simple glue connection and for saltwater here is a suggestion. Run the needle in about 1/2 inch and then exit the fly line with the needle at a flat angle. The needle should exit the fly line almost parallel to it. Pull enough mono through and tie a nail knot. If you manipulate the knot to start right at the exit point from the fly line you will have a smooth nail knot. Cover with Pliobond and put a perfection loop in the mono a few inches from the fly line tip. You now have the advantage of the mono coming out of the center of the fly line but still have the strength of the nail knot. I guess if you were tricky enough you could still glue like you normally do with Dave's method.