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Old 01-03-2009, 02:10 PM
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Default Re: tapered leader became a knotted leader...

What is the length and line weight of your rod?
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Old 01-03-2009, 03:24 PM
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Default Re: tapered leader became a knotted leader...

Rod is 9', weight is 5, using wf5f line.
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Old 01-03-2009, 03:47 PM
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Default Re: tapered leader became a knotted leader...

Ok, you're is ok for those flies if it has a faster type action.

I'd use 2x for #6 streamers, 3x in a pinch. Are they beadhead?
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:06 PM
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Default Re: tapered leader became a knotted leader...

I am going to agree with all that it is a timing issue, but you might be windshield wipering it.
Again I have to use Eddie Robinson's example. You are throwing a ping pong ball to someone 15 feet away...a flick of the wrist could do this...now you want to throw that same ping pong ball 50' you now have to open your arm allot more. BUT you must run a straight line. By dropping on the back cast you are going to create a LARGER loop and loose control.

Try standing slightly sideways and watch your line to get the timing. Timing means line completely straightened out on the back cast before starting forward.

Bigger Heavier flies means SLOW DOWN a little but keep that 10 and 2 in mind, don't break wrist.
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:39 PM
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Default Re: tapered leader became a knotted leader...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Whiton View Post
Hi yuengling910,
Your back or fore cast should begin when the line is in a "J" shape with a few feet that has not unrolled. When you see the "J" on your back cast that is the time to start your fore cast. You start the cast slowly, accelerate and abruptly stop your rod tip..........

Most wind knots are generally caused by the caster apply too much power on the stroke, especially the fore stroke. I did this for years until I learned that fly casting is not about strength. It is about technique and timing.

Frank
Quoted for Emphasis! Good advice, Frank. The word is accelerate, rather than pouring on full power immediately. You'll find that less effort can
lead to greater results. Timing and allowing the rod to work for you is the
secret .

I also agree with Frank Whiton's comments about different strokes for different folks. It is important to begin with what most people would consider a conventional cast. I tell my wife to keep her arm down while casting, but
often raise my arm as high as possible: casting over her head (really), gaining
a little effective rod length to clear obstacles, etc. It's one of those things
where you should learn the rules, and then break them as you see fit. Just
don't do it until you're confident in basic casting, and unless there's a very
good reason.

HAVE FUN!
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:33 PM
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Default Re: tapered leader became a knotted leader...

Quote:
Originally Posted by yuengling910 View Post
Thanks for all the advice. I went out again yesterday to practice some casting on the water and it went alot better. No knots at all after about 45 minutes. I'm still trying to better my false casting while shooting line, but I know it just takes practice.

So far I have just been keeping my non casting hand down by my side, when I go out tomorrow I'm going to start practicing single hauling, and roll casting.

The only flies I have are a wooly bugger assortment that I picked up. They are in sizes 8 and 6. I currently have a 3x leader tied on, should I buy a 2x leader to match up or cut my current leader back to the 2x section and add some tippet material?

Thanks again for the help.
I'm late to the thread, but I knew that you were on the right track when I read your first post. You at least had an idea of what was causing your problem and how to start fixing it.

One suggestion on preventing wind knots- make sure you've got something tied on where the fly belongs. It could be anything ranging from an actual fly with the hook cut off to a few short strands of fluffy yarn. This will be a more accurate representation of what the fly will do while casting, and will prevent both some knotting and fraying of the leader.

I think that working on single hauling this early would be a bad idea. You are much better off working on loop control (intentionally being able to throw bigger loops and tighter loops) and casting accuracy.

I'll also say that practicing roll casting away from the water is a waste of time. That said, once you're practicing your roll casting on a pond/river, work on stopping your forward cast high. Once you get the hang of it, you'll think "wow, that looks like a regular cast". That's exactly what you're after.
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