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Old 02-25-2010, 09:40 AM
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Default Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

Aleene's Fabric Fusion is a liquid clear polyurethane that's waterproof, requires no mixing, dries clear, and remains flexible after curing. It comes out of its bottle ($6.99 for 4oz) with an epoxy like consistency but has no smell. It can even be thinned with water for a very light coating. Its main downside is that it takes 2 hrs to set up, so you better have an epoxy turning wheel, or plenty of spare time.

Some examples-

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Credit goes to Casey Smartt for bringing it to the tiers of TX- TexasKayakFisherman.com • View topic - Aleene's Fabric Fusion
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:07 PM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

Looks like a great product?Thanks for the info,the last pattern is really unusual,what do you use it for?
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:34 PM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

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Originally Posted by jbbfly View Post
Looks like a great product?Thanks for the info,the last pattern is really unusual,what do you use it for?
That's what's known as a spoonfly. it produces a ton of flash, and a very erratic wobble when stripped that redfish go nuts for. I'll be trying them out on some bass in rivers as well, but its typically a saltwater fly used on the Gulf Coast.
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:37 PM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

nice, that is right on time for me.. i was just about to bite the bullet and spend 90+ for the tuffleye setup which uses the blue light to cure it..

i have a wheel i constructed to dry epoxy several years ago.. so thats not an issue for me..

nice job..
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:42 PM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

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Originally Posted by crashfromboston View Post
nice, that is right on time for me.. i was just about to bite the bullet and spend 90+ for the tuffleye setup which uses the blue light to cure it..

i have a wheel i constructed to dry epoxy several years ago.. so thats not an issue for me..

nice job..
If you want a quick solution, look into "clear cure goo" as an alternative to Tuffleye- much cheaper and supposed to work just the same.

Of course, you can see that $7 for Fabric Fusion was a bit more appealing to me. There's something to be said for ingredients cheap enough to reduce hesitation to try something.
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Old 02-26-2010, 07:12 PM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

Sweet flies man, I bet I could come up with good striper flies with that stuff.
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Old 02-27-2010, 04:52 AM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

cliff, did you use a form for the spoon flies ??
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Old 02-27-2010, 06:24 AM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

Nice flies, Cliff!

I particularly like the Clouser/Crazy Charlie variant on the right hand side of your pic. I'm heading South for some Bonefish in about a month. Are those eyes non-metallic? I ask because I'm going to be fishing some of the time on very shallow flats and I'd like to keep the flies from sinking too quickly and burying in the sand.

Any chance of doing a photo step-by-step on that fly? I'd appreciate it.

Pocono
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:16 AM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

I have also tried this stuff recently when I found out about it. It does have a smell, but not an unpleasant one. You have to reapply the stuff as it does shrink. One bottle will last you a long time. I plan to move on to Bug Bond in the future though, because it is not tacky. (Aleene's isn't either...but you have to reapply and I use it on a turner, if not it will sag on you and fall, losing it's shape. I spin it on the vise before putting on the drying wheel) If you barely use this kind of stuff, Aleene's is the way to go. Here are some of my experiments with it.

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Old 03-01-2010, 11:05 AM
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Default Re: Fabric Fusion (epoxy substitute)

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandfly View Post
cliff, did you use a form for the spoon flies ??
Nope, that's just a mono frame (green 30# big game on those, I think) tied in that spade shape. The trickiest part of that is making it as symmetrical as possible, to prevent spinning during casting. You can faintly see the green outline in that pic. You just apply enough of the aleene's to contact both the mono and the hook shank (possibly using the nozzle on the bottleto get all points connected), and then keep turning it in the vise, even before you get it to the wheel.

The first application of FF is just done with the clear stuff itself. You can see one at that stage drying on the wheel in this pic-

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After that's had time to cure, you then mix up some FF with glitter added in, and add that to the backk/out/away-from-the-point side of the spoons. The glitter will still be visible through the other side, but your adding it to the bac side to add some bulk to that side to improve the wobble. After the FF cures on that step, you'll have a pebbled finish on the backside since the glitter adds some texture. Its up to you if you want to re-coat to get the finish back smooth and shiny again, or leave it as is. You could even get tricky and add a small amount of a contrasting color of glitter to overlay the original. (I'm thinking the blue seen on those crease flies could look sharp overlayed on prismatic silver)

One tip- I would recommend moving the tie in point a little further down the bend to increase the cupping of the shape of the fly, to improve wobble and such.

---------- Post added at 11:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocono View Post
Nice flies, Cliff!

I particularly like the Clouser/Crazy Charlie variant on the right hand side of your pic. I'm heading South for some Bonefish in about a month. Are those eyes non-metallic? I ask because I'm going to be fishing some of the time on very shallow flats and I'd like to keep the flies from sinking too quickly and burying in the sand.

Any chance of doing a photo step-by-step on that fly? I'd appreciate it.

Pocono
That's a design I came up with as a clouser alternative, but I'm afraid it may not achieve what you're after. Its definitely got some added weight, though I've not fished it yet and thus can't comment on just how fast it sinks, or if it even rides hook point up.

To get any hook to ride hook point up like that, you have to add weight to the bottom of the fly to turn it over. I did that by lashing 5 3/8" lengths of .030 lead wire paralell to the hook. The mylar tubing covers it and then you coat all of it with FF to secure it all and keep the tubing from unraveling beyond the desired point. (just used lead cuz I had it. a non-toxic substitute would be more ideal, though coating it all with FF might seal it up well enough to contain toxicity. maybe?)

The original idea was to create a fly that would fish like a clouser, but that had a head shape more like a natural baitfish. The eyes I used on these are bulky doll eyes that stand out substantially from the fly, and thus don't really achieve what I was after. Something like these would achieve that, I just don't happen to have any- E - 3D Molded Eyes - Specialty Colors at BEARSDEN.COM
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