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Old 01-08-2008, 05:52 PM
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Default Weed Guard Help

I am looking to tie a few bass flys with weed guards i was wondering what everyones favorite way of tying a weed guard. I am going to try a little fresh water fly fishing at a good friends in Florida on lake Toho. I am pretty much an old salt and usually use big flys with out weed guards. Does anyone have any good bass fly recipes i have several fresh water poppers that i use for salt and some small snake flies so i have the surface stuff covered. i have an 8wt and a 9wt with floating lines, so all i need now is a few weedless flies. I was thinking about buying a kit of warmwater flies but i would rather tie them.

Thanks in Advance
Jim
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:12 PM
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Default Re: Weed Guard Help

Tying Steps
Two methods for tying weedless flies are commonly employed. One is the loop method, the other is the post. Both are effective, and easily tied with angler preference being the deciding factor at the tying table.

Loop Method:

1 - Using tying thread, build a foundation along the hook shank extending well into the curve of the hook.

2 - Wrap monofilament fishing line, or tippet material rearward along the top of the hook shank with excess extending past the bend of the hook. Continue to thoroughly wrap the mono to the point where the thread foundation ended.

3 - Finish tying the fly pattern as usual, being mindful not to crowd the eye of the hook.

4 - Bring the excess mono forward, forming a loop that encircles the hook point. Tie off at the eye; whip finish.

The size and weight of the fly will determine the diameter and stiffness of the monofilament. In most instances, mono in the 12 to 15 pound range will be sufficient.


Post Method:

1 - Tie desired fly pattern as usual, leaving slightly more space than usual at the head; do not finish.

2 - Immediately behind the eye, heavily wrap the monofilament to the underside of the hook shank with the excess extending rearward.

3 - Bend the mono where the wraps end, pulling the loose end forward until it's at a right angle to the shank. Make repeated wraps on the point side away from the eye to hold the mono in position.

Note: The mono will not generally remain at a right angle to the shank, but slightly angle rearward toward the point of the hook based on the amount of wraps built up. The excess mono should be trimmed to extend slightly past the point to deflect the fly past potential snags.

4 - Whip finish the fly as usual.


Some patterns to try would be capsized bugs, weedless mice, deer hair crawfish, weedless frog, and mega divers.
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Old 01-08-2008, 08:27 PM
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Default Re: Weed Guard Help

HI Rover
Thanks for posting I tied a loop type weed guard before I posted but used 20# mono on a size 4 and it didn't work to good, I just tried one with 12# and it worked much better.
Thanks
Jim
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:42 AM
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Default Re: Weed Guard Help

Hi Jim.
I'm new at fly tying. Only tying for 6 months now but have tied a lot of fly's.
Noticed you post and was wondering if we could get together for some salt water fly fishing. I went once and didn't catch anything. I have a fresh water boat for fly fishing as well
Thanks, flyfisher2
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:47 AM
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Default Re: Weed Guard Help

Another method on the weed guard is to add a loop of 10lb. mono behind the eye. It should loop down and hook onto the barb, bending back up to eye, where it is tyed in using your tying thread. The loop will pop free of the barb when the fish strikes,but resists more snags than the post. But the "big loop" first described is the best method I know as a general all around weed guard. One of the three should do the job.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:59 AM
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Default Re: Weed Guard Help

I always tie in 2 loops.
They tend to get all bent out of shape very quickly in heavy cover and 2 just last twice as long.
When one gets deformed, you can cut it off and you're still good to go.
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