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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2011, 03:56 PM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

Here is one example with different apertures. One tying lamp over the vice and some aluminium foil under. Camera on tripod and self timer 2 sec on. Distance on lens to the fly 20 cm.
Hook size 16.

Aperture f/4.0
Click the image to open in full size.

Aperture f/8.0
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Aperture f/16.0
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Aperture f/22.0
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2011, 04:08 PM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

Image quality actually starts to degrade when a lens is at its tightest aperture. My favorite results come from one stop less then the highest. Your depth of field will depend on focal length as well as distance from the subject. Shutter speed is irrelevant so keep your ISO as low as possible.
I definitely recommend using the timer and have the camera tightly secured on the tripod. I like to hang a heavy bag off my tripod to secure it even more. If you have an overhead or angled light source find yourself a piece of white poster-board or cardboard and use opposite of the light source to bounce light back on the subject, it will soften the contrast and bring some light into the subject's shadows.

Macro photography is a science with a formula. Looks like you are well on the right way.
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2011, 12:23 AM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

The quality of all 4 image look fine to me. My eyes are not keen enough to see the degradation siskiyoublues is pointing out.
I do see the depth of field increasing with the higher apertures. That's evident in the green and red waste material as it comes toward and falls away from the camera lens.

Dave
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2011, 09:46 AM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

Quote:
Originally Posted by tob1 View Post
The B+W filter are very nice and expensive
[/url]
And worth it! think about paying good money for refined top notch lenses and then sticking the cheapest filter glass on top. It's like buying a fancy fly rod and using the cheapest line you can find. My B+W filters have held up better then my Leica filters, totally worth it.

And Dave when you are looking at small web resolution images it's not your eyes, it's very tricky to see. I don't pretend I can see the difference a lot of times. That being said I think you would be impressed with the technical detail you would be aware of looking at a pair of 30x40 prints in front of you. If you have a photo editing software spending some time looking at your images at a 100% crop, you'll start to notice the differences.


this thread is the best!
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Old 11-01-2011, 10:25 AM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

I'm quite happy to see the exchange of ideas and information that is taking place here also. When it comes to the filter topic I have used a few. i am far from expert in being able to pick out the differences unless they are profound. The filters offered by Tiffin & Quantaray seem to be good quality as well as the Sigma line. I just ordered some more B+W glass because I do believe in German technology when it comes to optical glass but the Japanese manufacturers are not far behind at all. Way back in 1982 I bought a pair of Zeiss binoculars and after viewing through them the jury was in and the verdict was clear. Since then I have been a believer in the German products.

When the talk turns to f stop and clarity I have a good understanding of the relationship between the shutter and the aperture when trying to create detail in a shot. Once we enter into the business of photographing a fly in the vise I tend to keep it simple. I've seen posts where guys have built light boxes and went to great extreme to create a great picture and I do agree that the image quality is superb. However I have developed a tolerance, an actual liking for the shadowed armature like look of the flies I photograph using the most modest means of lighting and setup. I use my old Slik U212 and a remote shutter and light is provided by a 40 watt spot bulb nested in a jewelers lamp above and slightly to the front of the subject. I have gotten used to the shadows and such because that's what they look like when I shoot them.

I am going to get a Photo Shop Elements program so that the next time I have a gob of something stuck to my glass when I take a good picture I can fix it. I've help out from getting this software because of all of the over manipulated images I've seen over the years. Now I see that having my own darkroom wouldn't be a bad thing after all.
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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:30 PM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

Playing with some software and making some BW photos today.

Click the image to open in full size.

Trygve
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:28 PM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

That is a cool effect Trygve,

By the way how has the fishing been.............
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Old 11-01-2011, 09:53 PM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

very cool! I havent been on the creek lately I had some thing scome up to keep me from getting waders just yet, and the water here has gotten a bit cold.
mike
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2011, 07:55 AM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

I am new to scanning prints into JEPG images, the program is asking me "how many DPI" I want. The default is 200, I tried one and it appears grainy. I'm guessing DPI means pixels, is that correct and how high a number will give decent resolution?

Thanks
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2011, 09:44 AM
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Default Re: The Photography Chat Thread;

200 dpi is ok. Try to scan it in Photoshop Elements (use the import in file menu) as a PSD file.
200 dpi (dots pr inches ) - your pc sceen resolution is 72 dpi.
I normally scan for 180 dpi from a paper picture. If you want to scan from a negative you have have a higher dpi value.
Here is a scan from an old picture at 180 dpi
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