I have a good collection of Dr. Slick scissors but always reach for the Anvil Ice Tempered scissors I got many moons ago for my first upgraded pair of scissors. I like how they feel, cut and hold an edge. The Slicks are all heavy and just feel clumsy to me. I use their hair scissors the most and the tungsten scissors second but it seems 99% of my use is with the Anvils.
A friend gave me a pair of Kershaw scissors that are also very nice but know the best fix... Lock-Tite, peen the end os the screw?
There are a lot of scissors threads but I read every one of them because it seems I have yet to find the perfect pair! I am currently using the anvil microtip with the curved blade. An added benefit is that I can bend the handle enough to keep them in my hand while I do other things. I cannot do that with other brands. For very fine work I use a pair of Rubis.
There are many good fly tying scissors now. Used to be, we had to make due with cuticle or sewing scissors. The other alternative was surgical scissors, which are very expensive. Any stainless scissor will eventually dull, as stainless, regardless of where it comes from is not a hard metal. However, I'll agree that there are some that will be better than others, and some of those produced in Japan & especially Germany are usually superior to those produced in Pakistan.
Generally, "fly tying" scissors are lesser quality surgical scissors. Those that will not meet the requirements for surgical applications, but are fine for other uses.
Tungsten carbide is a far better choice than stainless as far as staying sharp longer, as it's a much harder metal, but it's also more expensive.
I own about 20 pairs of scissors that I've tried over the many years I've been tying, and I've resharpened many of them. I won't recommend sand paper for sharpening scissors, but that may just be a terminology issue. Emery paper, coated with fine silicon carbide grit will put a fine edge on scissors that are not beat up. If the edge is damaged, then they need to be reground. I've touched up scissors with a fine file too. However, small scissors are not easy to sharpen by hand if you don't understand what it is you're trying to do & I've seen where folks have done more damage to them attempting to sharpen them. It's all about angles.
Dr Slick, Anvil, Griffin, Rubis, Tiemco, Orvis, Kershaw and others all sell good quality scissors so if you use any of the "brand" names you should be fine.
Comfort in using any of them should be a high priority too as has been mentioned. I used a pair of cuticle scissors for awhile many years ago, which had small finger loops & I'll never do that again!
I have a sister who is a beautician, and she has several pairs of pro quality scissors for which she pays over $100 a pair. Look around at surgical scissors, what surgeons use & they're quite expensive too, although that is certainly partially due to who they're being sold to. So in comparison, tying scissors are not expensive.
For delicate work like cutting thread, trimming bits and pieces throughout the tie, I use cuticle scissors (Revlon, etc) bought in the "fingernail" section of most any drug/walmart/whatever store. The blades are far thinner than any designated "fly tying" scissors I've seen, allowing you to snip much closer to your work. I snitched my first pair from my dearly departed mom about 40 years ago...still using them! As with so many things, they don't make 'em like they used to!
Miltex iris , and Rubis also sold by Pettijean the CDC guru are some of the best, quality. That I have used ,you need 2 or more pair for different work . Remember heavy thread will create edge nicks just as wire. Info from a man who makes his living ,sales and sharpening for hair salons in 3 states. If you like I can offer Japanese handmade shears up to $4500.00 , I know this sounds crazy but real.
Is that a fact? I looked at both and saw the Rubis were a lot less expensive. Rubis also didn't seem to have the range of scissors that Petitjean has.
I've always admired the Petitjean scissors but the price scared me away.