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Old 04-09-2009, 07:16 AM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

Hi to all,

It is surprising to me how many people are cutting off the tip of the fly line to change leaders. It is a system that works, I guess, but not necessary. Tyeing on a short piece of Amnesia with a loop in the end is a pretty standard way of connecting leaders. If the correct size of Amnesia is used with a small loop, there is no hinging. I have used this method for many years and I have never experienced hinging. If you are having hinging I suspect that the leader or connection is not constructed correctly.

Those that are using Super Glue or Knot Sense on their knots should try Pliobond. It is a strong glue and will stay flexible. Hinging may also be caused by using too stiff of a butt material in the leader construction. That is for those who tie their own leaders.

Frank
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:51 AM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

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Originally Posted by Jimmie View Post
Hard to discribe but here goes. I bought some braided looking loops approx. 2"-3" long that slides over your fly line. A little tube of shrink wrap slides over both and is heated/melted down to hold all in place. Then it's just a loop to loop; fly line to leader. Will the shrink wrap hold??? Don't know yet but hope to find out soon.
I use those for 7wt and up applications.They are stong as anything and very neat.Once you have shrunk the tube with heat,you can take a piece of 4x tippet material and make a knot around the base of the braid.That puppy wont go anywhere.
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:21 AM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

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Originally Posted by corefly View Post
I use those for 7wt and up applications.They are stong as anything and very neat.Once you have shrunk the tube with heat,you can take a piece of 4x tippet material and make a knot around the base of the braid.That puppy wont go anywhere.
this is the best loop-to-loop connection i've ever used, but still not my favorite connection. but i used a touch of that uv drying glue on them and then treated w/rain-x on floating lines. this worked pretty darned well, but eventually, these braids (w/or without extra treatments) would break in the loop section. without the glue, i have had them come off once or twice after a lot of use.

either way, you've got to realize i'm talking about a LOT of use...maybe 400-500 days of fishing, or something in the area of 1,000 fish and 3,000 or more casts.

so i'm not too sure this is a negative critique. my biggest negative w/everything but the whitlock knotless connection is that they are not 100% buoyant. and loop-to-loop connections hang on guides too much.

as for the new sa dry tip "technology," i have 2 negs: it floats no better than a good braided loop connection on a good floating line and it is way too soft (cut by leader too easily).
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Old 04-09-2009, 08:44 AM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

You are quite right.The braid does wither after a while and breaks.I generally use a mono nail knotted to the fly line and make a loop at the end ,as close as possible to the flyline.I then join my leader by loop to loop connection.My current flyline has the already welded loop and it seems to be holding up.It has some serious hours use already but shows little sign of the coating wearing off.
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:02 AM
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Question Re: Leader to Line Connection

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Originally Posted by flyguy66 View Post
. . . as for the new sa dry tip "technology," i have 2 negs: it floats no better than a good braided loop connection on a good floating line and it is way too soft (cut by leader too easily).
Ken,

What do you mean by the "new sa dry tip technology"? Are you referring to the S.A. L2L Reconnect leader-to-line system?

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Old 04-12-2009, 09:25 AM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

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Originally Posted by Fly2Fish View Post
Ken,

What do you mean by the "new sa dry tip technology"? Are you referring to the S.A. L2L Reconnect leader-to-line system?

Neil
nope. the new sa mastery series floating lines tout the "dry tip technology" and they virtually guarantee the tip with float perfectly for the life of the line in their literature. but i have not found this to be true...even right off the spool. and i've used about a half dozen of them now. i've taken to clipping them off and adding an L2L connector or whitlock knotless connection.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:02 PM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

Zap-a-gap Connection Convert. Did Amnesia loops, L2L, nail knots. Zap a gap has nothing to get stuck in your tip top and is reliable. I use a #60 sewing machine needle to pierce the fly line because it has an eye in the point and is easier to feed than a regular needle. Use an emory board for roughing up the glueing area.

I do like the visibility of Amnesia and Climax now has a nymph line in orange that fades to clear. I start out with a commercial leader (but always go back to building my own with double Uni knots.)

I use a tippet ring to tie all my tippet on because there are no loops to catch on anything, it's a great dropper anchor, you can tie on dissimilar diameters safely, and it preserves your leader. I haven't had any problems with chafe or floating.
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Old 05-31-2009, 02:33 PM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

nail knot tied without a nail! or albright knot if I'm in salt. That's it.

If my leaer gets real short I clip off the mid section and tie on to the back section (usually use 2 or 3 diff mono sizes for leader)
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:28 AM
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Default Re: Leader to Line Connection

I use the factory welds until they crack or break. After that, I'll reweld it.

For other types of lines that I know welds will not hold, I'll use braided loops fastened with a nail knot of 10 pound mono.

MP
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