07-25-2009, 02:59 PM
Re: cretique plz
Very well done and excellent proportions! I think these are very buggy looking and the trout should eat them up.
If you want some feedback on the tying, here’s some suggestions- but these are really really minor “nits” that don’t have anything to do with how well they’ll catch- they’ll work fine, they look sturdy, and are well tied. From left to right:
First pic- proportions and the tying look great as it is. You may want to use less material in the tail- like 2-3 fibers
2nd pic - perhaps a few less fibers in the tail and a little less dubbing to get a carrot shape taper—just use enough dubbing to color the thread. Less material in the tail will also make the body slimmer since there will be less butts to bind down. The hackle is well done and in proportion to hook size and looks like it will support the fly well. The wings look a bit short and are slanted forward with no hackle wraps in front- it may cause the fly to tip forward if the wing was the standard shank length in height . It looks like they were tied split well, but moving them a bit further back and taking a couple wraps in front to build a dam and post them upright before you split them might help, and will let you take a couple wraps of hackle in front. The head looks well formed.
3rd- The parachute looks like it will ride right in the film. Again just far as cosmetics, not fish catching, you might want to less material in the tail, and it slants down a bit, perhaps because it was tied down too close to the bend? I usually try and tie it off just above the barb of the hook. You could take a wrap of thread under the hackle to prop it up-- if you don't want it too-- but some tails are tied intentionally the way you tied it to imitate a nymphal shuck to get an emerging or "transitional" dun as it sheds the nymphal skin on the surface. It just depends on the look you're going for. It looks like there’s a bit of wire rib sticking below the shank near the tail tie in. Normally, I wrap the rib forward over the abdomen and tie off at the beginning of the thorax, instead of wrapping it from the thorax back to the abdomen. To get a clean break in the wire aftr secured with a couple thread wraps, instead of trying to cut the wire, wiggle it back and forth- you should get a clean break without a wire “tag”. A little less dubbing to get a slimmer carrot shape might be worth considering. The wing looks like it is posted well, and the hackle is wrapped well, and you do a better job on this than I do, so congrats. As an aside, I often use a hackle one size larger on parachutes, so a size 12 on a 14 hook but plenty of folks use the standard hackle sized to the hook.
4th pic- The Adams is a tough fly and one of the hardest parts is getting the wings right. And you did, they look great. You might want a little less material in the tail- think 12 to 6 fibers depending on the size of the hook. Again a bit less dubbing, with a very sparse wisp of dubbing on the thread, Use a couple passes of thread to build up a body instead of more dubbing to build the taper, so that the rear might have 2 layers of thread and dubbing, the thickest part has 5-6 and the front has 3-4 layers. The hackle looks like the stem may have twisted or there wasn’t enough hackle stripped off the stem for the first wrap since it seems like it’s slanted back a bit. If you wrap the hackles one at a time, wiggle the 2’nd hackle back and forth as you nest it between the wraps of the first hackle it’ll help to trap less barbs. The head looks well formed and sized right.
5th pic- well done, you might want to use less material in the tail- 3 fibers and when you wrap the body, instead of twisting it into a herl “rope” try wrapping the strands flat like a ribbonto get a thin body. The legs are tied well and split, wire rib looks and wingcase look good. There is a a bit of a thread junction between the bead and legs, but this is always something I have trouble with. You can cheat a bit with some dubbing before you pull over the wing case, or just tie in and take a couple of wraps with 1 strand of peacock herl at the junction. Whne you take a couple of whip finishes to tie off the thread will disappear into the herl. When tying bead heads, I usually take a few wraps of lead or non toxic lead wraps before you start the fly. I usually insert one end of the lead wire into the bead along the shank to help anchor the bead, and take a couple of wraps of lead around the shank and bind it down with thread wraps before beginning the fly.
Again, none of these comments have anything to do with the fish catching draw of these flies, they’re all great from that standpoint, and I’d happily tie on any of them to my tippet. And they look a lot better than most of the stuff in my box for sure!