A couple of years ago I entered a swap that required the participants to choose a wet fly and tie the pattern for the swap, then convert that pattern into a Spey style fly.
I took the Claret and Mallard and came up with a pattern I called the Mallet.
The only issue with the Mallet that I came up with, which I did not care for was the claret coloured seal I used for the body, but I stayed with the pattern for the swap.
A while later I made two changes to the pattern that may or may not be good. I still have the original pattern but in the newer rendition I went to a brighter seal and I also substituted the mallard throat with Guinea Fowl.
For me, because I am not that good at this, each fly I tie is a new experience, learning from what I did on the previous one.
I think the front hackle is too heavy, but really I can't bring myself to change it to a more sparse hackle in the abdominal area. I tie it down to the fibres that show a bit of marabou tendencies and the overall silhouette is rather "Bulldogish." I think there will be enough pulsation in the water and a flash of red from between wraps that is will perform.
My apologies to other more proficient spey fly tyers, I am just a beginner so every time I do something close to correct, it amazes me.
These pictures are a bit rough but I hope they help:
Alec Jackson Spey Hook size 1.5. Wrap thread to this point.
Tie in the schlappen by the tip.
I dub over this point before I do anything else. By the way I missed a picture here, do not trim the tip off before you fold the hackle. This way you do not cry too many times through the dozen or so where the feather pulls out after you have the rest of the body done.Anyway I dub here so when you start the ribbing you are already in from the butt of the fly and to better cover the tie-in point.
I know it is hard to see but pull back the schlappen and use a couple of wraps of thread at the base to hold it in place. Now tie in some fine silver wire on the far side and medium oval tinsel on the close side. This hook has a folded eye so I start to tie in the tinsel at the point where it goes to the single shank to fill in the space. It will be evident when you look at the hook.
Again I sort of missed a step. Dub red seal forward to that point where the folded eye becomes a double shank. it is a good marker for your red seal body. Then you wrap the tinsel forward. The number of wraps here will dictate the number of wraps of schlappen.
Now you wrap the folded hackle forward, making sure each wrap is tight against a tinsel rib, one side or the other. Tie it off at that familiar mark but do not trim. I like to tie it back out of the way a bit with a wrap or two of thread.After this you counter wrap the fine wire so that it crosses the tinsel on top. Try to keep it from holding down any hackle fibres.
Now dub in either brown, black or claret seal to the point shown.
Wrap your schlappen forward making the wraps closer together. There is no rib to follow here, but it is probably 4 wraps, maybe 5. Tie it off and clip the excess. You may notice the last bit of the schlappen was a transition to marabou and that is fine.
Now tie in your guinea fowl feather by the tip. Again you will want to fold your hackle before trimming the tip off.
Take two wraps and tie off then trim excess. You may notice you are a bit close to the eye, we will take care of that in a second.
Now using some water to wet your fingers you start to divide and stroke fibres down on both sides of the hook. It should look a bit like a refugee from a barbershop quartet. Take your time and use quite a bit of water on your fingers to stroke it down and keep it there. If there are any fibres that want to stay vertical, trim them off close to the body. Because the fro of the fly is a bit heavy in the hackle department and because it helps to keep things right when you tie in the wing, I stroke back the front and then form a bit of a head to keep those front fibres swept back. Make it neet but not a large head.
Prepare to slips from Bronze Mallard. Wapsi is a good product and better in my experience, than Hareline, but that is just me. Each slip no wider than a quarter of an inch, but preferably a bit narrower. Lay them out like this.
The less you handle this wing material the better. It does not tolerate fidgeting well.
Now lay it on the fly so the tips extend barely to the hook bend.
Trim excess off carefully and form the head. Use 8/0 thread, it makes a neater job in my opinion.