Step 10: Now, stick the mono kicker through the closest hole first FROM THE HIDE SIDE. Go out to the hair side, and then poke it back through the knee joint hole. Trim off any extra mono, but make sure you leave about 1/4-3/8" sticking out so that the hide won't come off of it.
Another thing I started doing is to trim the hair off of the hide between the knee and the "ankle" area of each leg. That creates a fat-looking thigh, a skinny calf, and then a foot on each leg.
Back legs are ready for some kickin' now. I didn't put it in the photo, but be sure and put some head cement or super glue over the thread wraps holding the legs down. This will keep a bass from tearing them loose.
Step 11: Select some deer hair for the body. You can use all one color or any combination you want. If you know how to stack colors to create patterns, then you can do all kinds of things. I picked out black, white, dark olive, and light olive so I could make a white belly with mottled back.
Step 12: I'll go through how to spin and stack deer hair for those that haven't done it. I want an olive bit at the very back of my body, and I am going to let it flow back over the leg "miter" area where they're tied in to cover that up. Cut off a clump of hair a little smaller than a pencil. Get all of the fine fur-like hair out of it along with any really short hairs. Hold it together at an angle to the hook shank and loosely wrap the thread around it TWICE. Then wrap the thread over the hook shank ONCE on the BARE hook shank. DO NOT wrap it around the miter area or any thread-covered area of the hook shank. You need a slick area for this.
Step 13: Pull the thread tight and simultaineously let go of the deer hair.
Step 14: Pack the spun hair towards the bend of the hook. I grabbed a pen off the desk and took the guts out of it. It works great.
Step 15: Bring the thread out of the spun puff ball onto the bare shank. Pull the hair back out of the way, and make 4 or 5 wraps up against it to hold it in place.
Step 16: Starting the multi-colored section here. Cut some white for the belly and spin it on. This time though, don't let go of the hair when you first pull the thread tight. That will keep it from spinning all the way around the hook. You may need to use your fingers to rotate it around to the bottom of the fly after you puff it out by tighting the thread. Make 1 or 2 wraps in the very center of it at this point, but not more than that.
Step 17: We're going to stack colors now. We'll work colors from the outside of the back to the middle of the back of the frog. I started with light olive, then dark olive, then black. You do one clump at a time, and you use less hair for each clump to avoid getting too much hair in one spot. If it seems really clumpy, then you used too much. Unwrap it and start again with a smaller clump.
To stack colors, keep your thread in the center of the white puffball. Hold your light olive clump on top of the hook just like we did before. 2 wraps of thread and 1 around the hook at the CENTER of the white puffball. Pull tight and hold the hair to keep it on top of the hook. Now do the same thing for the dark olive, and then the same thing for the little bit of black hair. It will then look something like this....
Step 18: Pack it back like before. Pull the thread out and make a few wraps on the bare hook up against the hair.
Step 19: Keep spinning, stacking, and packing to build the body. When you get to where the front legs need to be, then tie in 3 or 4 strands of rubber legs. Leave them longer than you want them to be so you can easily grab them and move them around while you're trimming the deer hair body later.