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Old 05-09-2012, 03:37 PM
silver creek silver creek is online now
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Location: Rothschld, Wisconsin
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Default Re: Should I be able to cast my 3wt as far as my 5wt?

Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post
The Orvis guy mentions the little flick of the wrist, is this the same power snap that Joan Wulff is referring to? I was told that you dont want to use any wrist but while testing the new line I actually experimented and tried doing a little "snap" thing and it seemed to help, I dont know how to explain what I was doing, kind of like I had a drop of water on the end of the rod and I was trying to flick off with very minimal movement after the very short flick i stopped to wait for the line to straighten out. It seemed to help with the front cast but I couldn't get it to do anything with the rear cast so I quit.

The power snap, flick, etc are different names for the increasing acceleration of the rod at the end of the stroke. The other explanations are flicking an apple off the end of a stick or the one I like is to flick paint off the the end of a paintbrush. To do either of these things, you need a rapid acceleration terminating in a hard stop. Without both the acceleration and the stop, you will not get paint to flick off of a paint brush. Stand in front of a wall and try to flick water off of a paint brush so that it lands at forehead level on the wall. You need to flick or snap the brush.

To work on your backcast, stand with your back to the wall and try to flick water on it on the wall above head level. This will give you a high backcast.

Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post
Also will grass work just as well as water to practice? I like the run off pond because its right by the house and I can get the line wet, I dont know if it does but Ive always felt I can cast better with more ease on the water becasue its getting on the guides and such. I might have to go to the football field and try casting a bit. Then I can also get a more accurate reading of how far im actually casting.

Grass is bad for fly line. If you are going to cast on grass, use an old fly line that you won't use to fish with.

Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post

#2: How does one add more energy without forcing the rod? Is this where I need my Hauls? And is it more line that is added longer the stroke?

As Joan Wulff shows you can gain energy by lengthening the the stroke and by faster acceleration. Longer casts mean longer strokes. But this only gets you so far as Joan Wullf shows. You need to double haul.

Your stroke path looks pretty good but it lacks that "oomph" at the end before the stop. I also see inefficiencies (rod creep) in your stroke. We cannot see the line in the video so we cannot see the shape of the loop OR, just as importantly, the waves and slack in the arialized line.

When you have waves, droops, or waves in your fly line during the cast, some of your rod stroke goes to remove this slack. All the slack must be gone before the rod tip can actually pull on the end of the fly line to load the rod. Part of the reason that the double haul works is because the haul both removes the slack and adds acceleration to the line. The haul, in effect, adds to the rod stroke length.

Look closely at the video at the start of each forward and back cast. You consistently have some rod creep on your forward cast. You bring your hand forward a few inches before actually starting your forward casting stroke. You have just a bit of backward creep on your backcast as well.

Rod creep is when your timing is off and you begin moving the fly rod a bit before the cast actually starts. It's effect is to shorten the effective stroke path. It is as if you took your golf club back to hit but then lowered the head a bit before you actually begin the stroke. You give up stroke length.

Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post

#3: Ahh theres one of my bad habits I KNOW I do quite often, never had anyone tell me it was bad, guess that explains why I can never waterload much line without it either trying to all pile up in my face or just flop around like a fish out of water. Ill for sure be trying this next time Im at the water.

Never let go of the line.

Lower the rod tip. After the cast, take the line that is in your left hand and put it under the index finger of your right rod hand. Now strip the line in from behind your rod hand. Your right hand is holding the line against the rod cork so it cannot slip back outside the rod guides. Once the line is straight, you can begin the next cast from a low rod tip position.

Originally Posted by flyfisher117 View Post

#4: My biggest problem with the double haul, they also say this in the videos but its like trying to pat my head and rub my belly. I cant get the rhythm down without focusing really hard, I can usually get it going back but when I go forward I always seem to forget to get my line hand to go back up and "reset" getting ready to go backwards again. By the time I remember its too late the line is either straight and falling down or I've started another back cast. What would be a good line length past the rod tip to practice getting the rhythm down?
The easiest way is to pantomime and use the "down-up" of Mel Krieger. Practice without the fly rod. Buildup your muscle memory. Think "down-up".

You can also start with a single haul, that is the front half of a double haul. After you pick up the the line for the back cast, you can add the "down up" haul to add a bit more power to the back cast.


"Discovery consists of seeing what everybody has seen and thinking what nobody has thought"..........Szent-Gyorgy

Last edited by silver creek; 05-09-2012 at 06:21 PM.
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