The North American Fly Fishing Forum

Go Back   The North American Fly Fishing Forum > >

Rate this Entry

Rod Building Notes

Posted 04-21-2013 at 09:14 AM by random user
Updated 05-01-2013 at 09:55 AM by random user (Updated 30APR13)

This is actually looking pretty easy and affordable with okay quality components - not what I was expecting. Still a bunch of nit-pincky details to decypher, but it isn't too bad. Am sure it gets very expensive with the uber top end stuff. Blanks on the other hand, are what they are.

Your source for flyfishing and flycraft resources since 1975 - Hook & Hackle

JS Fly Fishing: Rod Building, Fly Tying: Rod Building
  • Perfect cork is impossible to find and really good cook is a bit pricy and difficult to find.

  • Pre-fabbed handles are easier then stacking the cork rings and shaping.

  • There are cork sealers/protectants available.

  • Color preserver is only necessary when using silk threads and possible thread darkening is a concern . Nylon thread hold color over time much better than silk, but may darken with application of rod coating.

  • The Bushing or Arbor under the reel seat can be just about anything so long as the ends are sealed up well with water proof glue. Seems a bit silly to me to use anything which could swell, deteriorate or feed a mold/bacteria colony.

    • Fiber glass or polyester rings would not be expensive nor difficult to wind up, micarta style.

    • Arbor under the reel seat should be light.

  • Reel seat and tiptop can be removed by a soak in boiling water and a strait pull off once the epoxy softens up. Do not twist because it can cause the graphite to splinter. Use a plastic bag if you want to protect the components finish.

  • When Removing the guides, etc. cut against the guide feet to protect the graphite from scratches and nicks. Unwrap what cannot be cut safely.

  • Removing the finish from the blank can be done with a hair dryer the back of a plastic knife. Use only enough heat and force to get the job done. Faster is not necessarily better.
  • Nothing too special needed for tools: fine scissors, razors, bodkin, mixing cups, craft store disposable paint brushes …

  • Rod Winding Station can be as simple as a cardboard box with a couple of “V”’s cut into it and a bobbin of thread poked into the box.

  • Drying /Turning Station – not completely necessary. They generally turn about 5-7 RPM per minute. Wiper motor should do fine so long as the speed control is installed. Wooden dowels can be shaped to insert into the ferrules to hold the rod.


    • The rod tip thread tensioner a-al-Diver-Dan is a very good thing.

    • Spool tension needs to be smooth. Larger (fender) washers seem to work better than standard size washer. Standard nylon washers didn't seem to make a difference.
8’6” #5 REVAMP: ($60 for 'parts' for a blank I already have which still has a passable grip. This works for me.)
PB UL Reel Seat Black-Hook & Hackle

Cork Rings / AAA / Bleached-Hook & Hackle (to replace damaged lowest cork ring.)

Black 8 1/2 Guide Set-Hook & Hackle

Hookkeeper Black / U - Shaped-Hook & Hackle

Hook & Hackle Premium Black Finished-Hook & Hackle (4.5, 5, 5.5, 6 - Get a few they are tricky to size and inexpensive)

Rod BuildingThreads-Hook & Hackle

Flex Coat 50/50 Mix / High Build Polymer Rod Wrap Finish-Hook & Hackle

Flex Coat Epoxy Rod Builders Glue-Hook & Hackle (Would Glue of Gorilla or a water proof epoxy be enough?)
  • "A" nylon seems to be the standard. It's pretty strong and hard to break. Nylon need color preserver or it goes translucent when the wrap finish is applied.

  • NCP is nylon pretreated with color preserver and comes in far fewer colors.

  • 30-weight Embroidery thread will work but is much more delicate. Embroidery thread has a silicone lubricant on it, so the first coat of wrap finish needs to be really thin/light. Not sure about color preserver and rayon embroidery threads. If the first coat of wrap finish is heavy, the lubricant on the thread will cause the wrap finish to fish-eye.

  • GUIDE SPACING seems to be pretty consistent across many sources, give or take a fraction. Typically, spacing is measured from tip top to the center of the guide.

  • GIUDE SIZING however, seems to be a bit more diverse. There are many opinions and suggestions out there.

    Guide sizing has everything to do with minimizing drag on the line while maintaining enough contact with the line to get a positive energy transfer from the rod to the line and keep that energy headed in the correct direction,

    • Source I purchased from offered 12, 10, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1.

    • Another source in offering 12, 4, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3.

  • GIUDE PREP: With the stripper guides, it is helpful to file down the very ends of the feet so they are a little thinner / less tall and have a smooth taper for the thread to climb up as the turns re wound on.

    • With black guides be sure to re blacken the filed, now shiny area so the doesn’t glow under the thread wraps when the wrap finish is applied.
Posted in Uncategorized
Views 626 Comments 1 Email Blog Entry
« Prev     Main     Next »
Total Comments 1


  1. Old Comment
    Ard's Avatar
    This is a good check list for people to view, when you see a post asking questions about re-finishing you should paste a link to this entry for them. To do that just open the blog, go up to the url address bar and copy. Then go to the thread with the question - right click and paste the link.

    This is good,

    Posted 04-30-2013 at 02:01 AM by Ard Ard is offline

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:40 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO v2.0.40 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like v3.6.3 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
2005-2017 The North American Fly Fishing Forum. All rights reserved.