A Day for Grayling Fishing;

Ard

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Recently someone told me that we don't have hardly any fishing report threads for the past "few years". You and I know that's not the case but rather than sit on my hands I decided to do a little thing of my own.

By noon Monday August 19 I had tired of sitting around grousing over low water and poor fisheries management so I threw together an overnight load and headed north. The plan was simple, return to a clearwater fork of a northern river that I had spotted access to from the air. That business of flying around looking for places to land turns out to be a great way to spot access routes you'd never find from the ground.

I didn't even get passed Wasilla before I was alerted that my plans weren't gonna work out. I stopped at Three Rivers Fly & Tackle to grab some dry fly leaders and was ask if the Highway was open? Open? What do you mean?

Turns out that while I've been afraid to even think of lighting any sort of fire not everyone has received the memo. There were ? are 2 Wildfires burning along the Parks Highway to such an extent the highway was still closed Monday afternoon!

I swiped this photo off the Anchorage Daily News website, so glad I stopped for leaders!



That'll leave a mark. That photo is from the lower (southernmost) fire burning near the Nancy Lake State Recreation Area. The highway was also closed for what they have dubbed The McKinley Fire which is raging up between mile post 84 and 91 I think. Public radio stated that there were over 80 structures destroyed including some subdivisions of cabins & homes. The Camp Caswell area is completely leveled. There was a combination of Super Dry drought conditions coupled with high winds and things happened fast.

So enter plan B. I headed north on the Glen Highway and went to a place I've only ever driven past. Turns out that old trucks 4 wheel drive still works so I took the road least traveled and found my spot. I didn't bother with a tent and instead inflated a Twin size air mattress and stuffed it in the bed of the truck. Then add a 25* Big Agnes down bag and a pillow and camp came around pretty quickly.



It got colder than I expected with the morning at 36* up there so I was glad to hear the old pot begin the perking thing :)



I had 3 rods with matching reels along so it was decision time while I sipped coffee, would it be the 9 1/2 foot light salmon? Probably not because I expected only Graylings and thought the 8 weight could be a bit much... Would it be the intrepid 7'9" Far & Fine 5 weight? I know how to use that one for sure but I had one with that hasn't seen much use lately and had never caught a Grayling. So...…



If I had it to do over (but I don't) I would have had fancy wraps put on that rod, it's a custom build from Orvis back when Ron White was still there. I got that long before I ever heard of the internet and back then stock Orvis dressing looked pretty good to me, it's a six weight.

Next came the question of what fly will you use, I know everyone uses dry flies for Grayling but I like to think that if there's a big one lurking about it'll take a wet fly. So, Jock O' Dee (yep a salmon pattern) tied to a #6 Bartleet hook.





Those babies resemble a lot of forage fish in our rivers and creeks here from Sculpins to baby pink & chum salmon. Before I made my first cast I saw some speckled sculpins scattering and scampering along shore so that was a confidence builder. I was surprised that it took a few casts before I felt someone tapping at the fly and when they got hooked they were pretty small fish.



That's not the first fish, it's not even the 4th fish because I didn't take their pictures. I kept thinking that a big fella would come along any cast now but finally got a snap shot of one of the fish I was catching.

The river is a beauty, it transitions from single channel water into braided flows as you follow it along, I fish down because I'm swinging the seams...



That spot on the hillside is a slide that you can see better where the water parts.



Next picture is looking upstream from below a split in the channel.



Here's the channel against the cut bank



As much as I wanted to think I would find a trout I'm not sure if there are any that live in this one. All that beautiful water most of which is pretty swift current but no trout seen or caught. Graylings however tend to be a bucket fish meaning that wherever the current has cut a troth or eddy and there is some depth with a break from the swift water there will be Grayling. As I went, the better the bucket the better the fish.



Here are some that afforded underwater pictures, this guy just hung out after being unhooked.



Here's one of those bucket areas;



I walked way too far and the knees felt it on the way back but when you look downriver you just can't stop without knowing what's along that cut bank.





That was one of them. There were others but all were similar in size, I'd guess between 10 and 11 inches and healthy.
Below is a good look at the iridescence of the hews of blue in the dorsal fin, had the sun been better it would glow.

Continued below...…………..
 

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Ard

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Too many Pictures! Really! Here's the rest of the day....

While I fished for a couple miles I saw many moose tracks and fished with my head on a swivel because where there's moose there's bears. When I made the forced march back upstream I did my snooping. Finds ranged from the tracks of a small brown bear to an old moose kill and some fossil remains that were too heavy to carry all the way back.





I should have slid my dainty size 14 into the frame for reference but didn't. If I were to guess I'd say about a 300 to 325 pound bear going on 3 years old on it's own for the first fall winter season because I saw only one set of tracks.



I'd been at it since 6:40 in the morning so I was on my way back at the time shown. I fished as I made my way but only the buckets where I felt fish that weren't hooked on the way down.



No idea but too heavy to carry, I know what I want to say but am probably wrong. It looks like a fragment from a giant Ammonite which would mean the whole was huge.

Below is an example of a Giant Ammonite I swiped from Bing Images, you decide but I'd lean that way....

View attachment 18421

Moos kill? Young moose probably a 2 year old based on skull bones, fractured bones (chewed) lead one to believe either a kill or scavenged by a bear after death.





I kept walking and fishing my way back and all I was thinking of was that camp chair and getting out of waders. It was 3:30 PM when I got to the truck and I was ready for a cup of Joe and the drive home :)



The smoke from all the fires has all the views nearly blocked all the way from Eureka to home...…. At least no one set the Glen on fire and I was able to get home once I was tired.
 
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Ard

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Thought about you Tuesday morning Tim, actually Monday afternoon when I saw the conditions over there! That place is about 100 miles from the house here, I shoulda taken you there instead of down the peninsula but hindsight is always 20/20 I guess.

You didn't miss anything with the hike though. By the time I got back to old yeller I was knakered and so were my worn out knees :)

Honest truth? I had a nice day, it took my mind of the disastrous conditions on my favorite haunts but.... While I had fun tricking one of them that missed my fly repeatedly as I was working my way down, got him coming back upriver, when you've been ruined by catching trout & salmon from 4 pounds to 40 pounds for 15 straight seasons grayling just don't get the job done buddy. I am so needing a days salmon fishing but have no idea where to get it.

Better book that flight for the October steelhead trip tomorrow!
 

ia_trouter

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Glad to see you got out and "made a little lemonade". That looks like something that would be fun to do a time or two a year. Hopefully nobody burns the place down before you get some precipitation. A couple of your pics even managed to make the water not look so skinny, but the others give it away.
 

Ard

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That's actually fed by many small glaciers Dewayne. It is running low but not as low as if there were no ice melt feeding it. Generally it's about half a foot higher or so this time of year due to rain. I'm going to go back before winter to hike up river to see if I can find where the Ammonite fossil came from. There has to be a bunch in a cut bank somewhere that that shard came from. I should have manned up and brought it back to the truck but it was about a mile away and I was fishing and using my wading staff too. Would have been awkward trying to carry a 2 pound rock too...…..

NEWS FLASH! The Alaska Department of Fish & Game regional office has closed the Silver Salmon season in my local rivers but allowed it to go on throughout the Yentna Susitna and Skwentna drainages so I still don't understand what they are thinking...….. Everything is low, Lake Creek - Moose Creek - Indian Creek - Hewitt Creek - Johnson Creek the Tal everything is drying up but they closed the 2 with weirs???
 

TwoThumbsUp

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One of my dream trips has been to catch Artic Grayling and Artic Char in the actual Artic. Between you and Bagels' recent TR's, the thoughts have been reignited.
 

Joey Bagels

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That smoke plume looks nasty. Glad it wasn’t burning when I was up there the week before last. Even though it sounds like you prefer salmon and trout, it’s good you got out to stretch your legs and the fly line. Beautiful little fish those grayling are!


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Ard

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That smoke plume looks nasty. Glad it wasn’t burning when I was up there the week before last. Even though it sounds like you prefer salmon and trout, it’s good you got out to stretch your legs and the fly line. Beautiful little fish those grayling are!


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I was thinking of you when I put this together and was actually headed for the Gulkana (you passed it on the way to Paxon) but couldn't resist the one I fished. Generally it is higher and much harder to walk and wade for a couple miles. I don't know how many I caught and that always means it was enough that you don't try to count.

I had one of my medium size trout nets clipped to the rear D ring of my jacket but got tired of unclipping it and handled most of the smaller ones by just reversing the hook and away they went. The hook was pretty big for the little guys but without the barb I saw no bleeding and was careful not to tear the upper mandible plate on them. Therefore I had a pretty guiltless day of it :)

On the way back down the Glen all the views were obscured by the convergence of smoke from 5 different fires burning. Even here at home the sky is a shroud and the air smells of fire. All we can do is hope that no one in this area is stupid enough to light any kind of fire outdoors or the result would be catastrophic. Everything around all these thousands of homes is as dry as it's ever been, ever.

Still no rain in sight.

Oh yeah the trout and salmon thing...… It's hard to switch gears I guess. When I was on the way upstream I changed to a 9 foot 5X leader and tied on a #16 dry fly. All these years of putting 15 pound leader through large hook eyes took a toll on me. I had to stop halfway through tying my knot to be sure nothing was sneaking up on me because I'd been staring at my fingers for about 4 or 5 minutes. Then I had to get the curl out of the forward cast so it didn't land like a rock, the line was a 6 weight. By the days end I had the bugs worked out and they were grabbing whether it was floating or sunken.

I'm going back to hike upriver. I'm going to look for whatever deposit that Ammonite shard came out of and will take my 3 weight bamboo for that day as well as my old rock hound kit bag. I use an old WWII era map and document case to hold rock hammers chisels and news print for wrapping collected specimens. It would be way cool to find the mother load, I have a friend who is also a rock hound and he actually gave me a nice one about 8 inches in circumference from his collection. In the years after collage I had a serious rock addiction but have been dormant for years, one day at a time you know but ever since he gave me one about 8 weeks back I've had the urge...…………...
 

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Ard

Great fly fishing report, thanks for sharing all those great photos!
When I lived in Fairbanks, I loved to fish for Grayling along the Chena river, but I mostly did it with small dry flies, I just love seeing them come out of the depths and hammer a small dry fly I had tied, even though they weren't that pretty back then.
 

Ard

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When I went to a soft hackle dry / wet on the way back upstream Larry I saw fish come out of the deep green pools to hit it. That was pretty cool. One of them has taken shots at the streamer when I worked my way down river several times and never got on the hook. On the way up I tried him again, even changed to a fly gifted to me by Eric (von bher) and got plenty of rushes but no takes. Then I changed leader and went to the dry and got 4 from the same spot :)
 

cpiercem

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Beautiful river and fish!

I'm glad this thread got brought forward. Great report.

I missed it before as I was out dodging the smoke from Alaska, Canada, and points south in August. :rolleyes: :D Sure were a bunch of huge fires up your way this year. :(
 

Ard

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Still warm enough here for fishing Cindy and there has been rain so the fires are mostly out :) I'm going tomorrow (Sunday and Monday if weather allows for flying) we are still getting some really fine trout out in the hinterlands.
 
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